F412 up

timbo2

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Has anyone checked out the '79 F412 on the bay? Formerly owned by Brian Ahern. I'm not sure how I will explain how this is a smart buy for the family with the Ms but I am TEMPTED! Help!!!
 

Treem

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timbo2

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Yup. I always admired Ahern's records - figured this one is likely a keeper.
 

6L6

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That's one beautiful axe for sure! And I think that sunburst job is as nice as any I've ever seen.

Glad I have an '06 F-412 in the barn or I'd probably have to take a go at that one. I've always preferred the brighter sound of maple when it comes to 12 string acoustic guitars.

6

'06 F-412
'06 D-55
'77 D-50
'74 D-40
 

dreadnut

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sure would make a nice mate for your F-512, timbo. Have you ever played a 412? (I used to own a 512 too, hard to top that sound, eh?) Awhile back the local Guitar Center had a 412 they took in on trade, so I took it for a spin. Oh, baby :shock: It was sweet, and loud. Coulda, woulda, shoulda bought it for 900 clams. :roll:

I'm not being much help here, am I timbo? (GO FOR IT!) :twisted:
 

timbo2

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No help at all :)
Can't help but agree though. Trying to talk myself into this as an "investment" not just a guitar!
 

dreadnut

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Actually, you've got a nice cross section of Guilds already - one maple, one rosewood, and a mahogany; two jumbos and a dread...which one gets the most play time? I'm guessing the F-50 :wink:
 

marcellis

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I have never heard of the previous owner. But the guitar is a good buy
at the current price & will probably go up to $1700-2000, even without
a famous previous-owner.
 

timbo2

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I tried t keep up but the bidding went deeper than my pockets, sold for $2011, not meant to be. Thanks all, for the support and encouragement.
 
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Hi, I'm a newbee.

I just bought a 1987 F412 from eBay. Got it for $911. It had a slight cracked neck, but I had it opened and re-glued. The fingerboard was also loose as a result. There's a reason for $911 for this Jumbo!
The binding was a bit cracked at some at 3 and 5 fret markers. Also, being an '87, the frets are worn about 40% say my Luthier.

Question: Although the neck is now straight, both truss rods adjusted, the action is a little high up top.

My friend has a JF 65-12, and it plays like a dream. Don't get me wrong, this is sweet, but a little work to play.

Does anyone think a re-fret would make the difference, or I could have the saddle shaved down.....or???

I have a '84 D-25-M and a '87 D-25, both Westerly's....love them.

I am really a Bass player, 70's Fender Jazz & P's

I'm looking for thoughts. Nice to join you all

EC
 

taabru45

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I have an 80 F512R, and after having it stored longer than I anticipated, the bridge was pulling up a little, could put a piece of paper under the bottom of it. Also the action was way too high.....My Luthier pulled the bridge shaved it and reglued it, no neck reset...and now you can barely slip a quarter under the strings at the 12th fret, just a joy to play now, and it has mediums on it tuned down a tone...lovin' it. Cost about $150, incl strings... :D Steffan
 
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taabru45 said:
I have an 80 F512R, and after having it stored longer than I anticipated, the bridge was pulling up a little, could put a piece of paper under the bottom of it. Also the action was way too high.....My Luthier pulled the bridge shaved it and reglued it, no neck reset...and now you can barely slip a quarter under the strings at the 12th fret, just a joy to play now, and it has mediums on it tuned down a tone...lovin' it. Cost about $150, incl strings... :D Steffan
Steffan,
Although my bridge is not pulled, the shaved saddle sounds like the ticket. When you look down the neck from the butt, you can see it slope off.

EC
RE; '87 F412
 

taabru45

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Long as you have some angle at the saddle, for the strings, and you can put a small groove going into the hole to help if needed. you're fine, make sure the bottom of the saddle is flat and making good contact... my D25 wasn't, and after flattening it, and making a better contact the sound got bigger too...good luck with that...Guilds are nice aren't they...!. :D Steffan
 
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taabru45 said:
Long as you have some angle at the saddle, for the strings, and you can put a small groove going into the hole to help if needed. you're fine, make sure the bottom of the saddle is flat and making good contact... my D25 wasn't, and after flattening it, and making a better contact the sound got bigger too...good luck with that...Guilds are nice aren't they...!. :D Steffan
Steffan,

I'm not sure I understand the groove into the hole. I think you mean on the side of the saddle looking at the sound hole to avoid string contact?

I have had to do that on my old 12 string [cheapo]. The bridge and saddle were skinny as Twiggy by the time he was done!

EC
 

taabru45

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When you put the string in the hole and replace the pin, there is an angle between the saddle and where the string disappears under the pin. If the bridge is too thin there is hardly any angle i.e. the string is almost parallel to the top all the way to the pin... To increase the break, therefore putting better pressure on the saddle there sometimes is a little grove the string sits in, as it goes into the hole...My guitar just had the pin- holes without the slot so my luthier cut a small grove to increase the angle from the saddle to the pin In other words there now is the pin-hole with a small groove going into it, where the string sits, a little lower...Got it? :? :? :D Steffan
 
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taabru45 said:
When you put the string in the hole and replace the pin, there is an angle between the saddle and where the string disappears under the pin. If the bridge is too thin there is hardly any angle i.e. the string is almost parallel to the top all the way to the pin... To increase the break, therefore putting better pressure on the saddle there sometimes is a little grove the string sits in, as it goes into the hole...My guitar just had the pin- holes without the slot so my luthier cut a small grove to increase the angle from the saddle to the pin In other words there now is the pin-hole with a small groove going into it, where the string sits, a little lower...Got it? :? :? :D Steffan

Gotcha! I'll have him do that.

This baby is as heavy as a brick s#%t-house. That maple neck really gives is some heft. But what glorious sustain!!

Enjoy the rest of your weekend, friend.

EC
 

taabru45

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ecgoggio said:
taabru45 said:
When you put the string in the hole and replace the pin, there is an angle between the saddle and where the string disappears under the pin. If the bridge is too thin there is hardly any angle i.e. the string is almost parallel to the top all the way to the pin... To increase the break, therefore putting better pressure on the saddle there sometimes is a little grove the string sits in, as it goes into the hole...My guitar just had the pin- holes without the slot so my luthier cut a small grove to increase the angle from the saddle to the pin In other words there now is the pin-hole with a small groove going into it, where the string sits, a little lower...Got it? :? :? :D Steffan

Gotcha! I'll have him do that.

This baby is as heavy as a brick s#%t-house. That maple neck really gives is some heft. But what glorious sustain!!

Enjoy the rest of your weekend, friend.

EC
Here is more information than you ever wanted to know, plus a great site to bookmark, or favorite. frets.com frets.net ...enjoy that guitar, and held at arms length makes for a good weight training tool too. :lol: :lol: Steffan
http://www.frets.com/FRETSpages/Musicia ... dle01.html

even more...
http://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topics/a ... ooves-into
 
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