D25 History Help

[chrisguildman]

So I want an older, all solid (or arch back), all hog D25. Have they always been all hog? If not, how can you tell if unspecified on the listing and the seller is no help? Have they ever been laminate (other than the arch back years which I don't mind)? If not, how can you tell if unspecified on the listing and the seller is no help?

Thanks all!

 

[midnightright]

I am far from a D-25 scholar, but I have owned a couple of them, and this is what I know based on those.... The first was a 1993 D-25 with a solid spruce top, solid mahogany sides and arched-laminated mahogany back. Awesome guitar! My favorite so far. The other was a 1973 D-25M that was an all solid wood mahogany guitar (with a flat back). Tremendous guitar. Ultimate mahogany tone! I regret to the death selling them both oh so long ago: what I wouldn't give to have them both back now! But I get by--much more so than that honestly--with my 1998 D-4, which has a solid spruce top, solid mahogany sides and arched laminated mahogany back!

P.S. I guarantee you that if you post the link somebody will be able to identify which kind of guitar it is...

 

[GardMan]

Dates will give a clue: see some of the later posts in: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=31455

1972 and earlier would likely be all mahogany with a flat back. 1975 and later would likely be spruce-topped with an arched back (until much later, when they returned to flat-back all mahogany style). 1973 is likely all mahogany, but could be flat-backed or arched back. 1974 should have an arched back, but could be mahogany or spruce-topped.

In the transition period (73-74), you can often tell if the top is mahogany by its appearance... much more pronounced dark grain than in the spruce tops on D-25s.

 

[chrisguildman]

Dates will give a clue: see some of the later posts in: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=31455

1972 and earlier would likely be all mahogany with a flat back. 1975 and later would likely be spruce-topped with an arched back (until much later, when they returned to flat-back all mahogany style). 1973 is likely all mahogany, but could be flat-backed or arched back. 1974 should have an arched back, but could be mahogany or spruce-topped.

In the transition period (73-74), you can often tell if the top is mahogany by its appearance... much more pronounced dark grain than in the spruce tops on D-25s.

You have quite an impressive collection. What is your favorite, if you can bear to choose just one.

 

[GardMan]

Chris,
They all sound different, and I like them all. I'd be really hard-pressed if I had to choose just one. But, if I REALLY had to choose JUST one, I must keep my '72 D-35... I bought it when I was 17, and we have been thru a lot together.

Now, in terms of which do I play most and/or which would be the second one I'd pick, that's a bit of a different story, with two responses. My D-50 gets the edge in playing time these days... it's great for both strumming and fingerpicking. But I think D-46 would edge it out as my "favorite." It's got great tone, with good bass and sparkling trebles. Extrememly versatile, and easier to record. The D-46 is also is a bit easier a player these days.

So, if you want a great sounding dread with the sparkling trebles of maple or mahogany and a bass that is nearly as good as rosewood, find yourself an '80s Guild D-46.

 

[chrisguildman]

I found a D46 for sale. What is a fair price for one in good condition (i.e. if for some reason I need to sell it, I would at least get that amount for it).

Thanks!

Chris,
They all sound different, and I like them all. I'd be really hard-pressed if I had to choose just one. But, if I REALLY had to choose JUST one, I must keep my '72 D-35... I bought it when I was 17, and we have been thru a lot together.

Now, in terms of which do I play most and/or which would be the second one I'd pick, that's a bit of a different story, with two responses. My D-50 gets the edge in playing time these days... it's great for both strumming and fingerpicking. But I think D-46 would edge it out as my "favorite." It's got great tone, with good bass and sparkling trebles. Extrememly versatile, and easier to record. The D-46 is also is a bit easier a player these days.

So, if you want a great sounding dread with the sparkling trebles of maple or mahogany and a bass that is nearly as good as rosewood, find yourself an '80s Guild D-46.

 

[adorshki]

(until much later, when they returned to flat-back all mahogany style)

Those were only made in Corona for no more than 2 years ('02-'03) before they introduced GAD-25s with same formula.
By the way, welcome aboard Chris. Gardman put it in a nutshell very well I just wanted to add a couple of details.
Another thing to watch for is the very common mistake of assuming a D25"M" has a mahogany top. There were a very few all-hog archback guitars wearing that label, from the '72-'74 time period, but they may actually be labelling "flukes", and that label is far more common on spruce-topped guitars which had a mahogany color stained top. In fact technically, that's how Guild actually defines a D25"M".
:wink:

 

[poser]

If you're still interested in an all mahogany dreadnaught there's one up on eBay right now. But it's not an older one, it's a Corona-built D-25. As adorski wrote these have a mahogany top and a flat, not arched back. They were built in California in the early 00's. Some of us here consider Corona-built Guilds to be underpriced gems. I have a Corona D-50 that is a great guitar.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/25106586432...AX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_500wt_1156

 

[GardMan]

I found a D46 for sale. What is a fair price for one in good condition...

Chris,
I have seen D-46s sell from ~$600 to over $1000. I paid ~$950 for mine in VG condition (some minor finish checking), and consider it well worth it. Mine is an earlier one (early '81), with a ~2" rosewood centerpiece in the bookmatched ash back. From later in '81 until the end in ~'85, D-46s had solid (bookmatched with a marquetry strip) ash backs.