D Tar Load n lock, strike three

[Brad Little]

I've had a lot of trouble with the load n lock system in my F512. The first one got fried when a friend plugged it into a preamp with phantom power turned on. When Dave Gonzales asked me about my guitar at LMG 2 or 3, he said he'd send one that was in the office in Arizona, it was dead on arrival. Bought one, probably from Reverb or eBay, and it worked. Then a year or so back, the batteries were slightly corroded, but after cleaning with vinegar and Deoxit, it worked okay. Then, last week when I was checking it in prep for an open mic, I put in new batteries (I had taken them out after my last use about a year ago to avoid another attack of corrosion), and it doesn't work. So, third strike, it's out. Since it's pretty hard to find a replacement, I'll probably take it to my luthier and have him plug the oversize hole and fit a new pickup of some sort, maybe the D-Tar Multi Source system. Open to suggestions, I don't mind spending serious money, after all, I DID get an unbeatable deal on the guitar at LMG 1!

 

[twocorgis]

I've had a lot of trouble with the load n lock system in my F512. The first one got fried when a friend plugged it into a preamp with phantom power turned on. When Dave Gonzales asked me about my guitar at LMG 2 or 3, he said he'd send one that was in the office in Arizona, it was dead on arrival. Bought one, probably from Reverb or eBay, and it worked. Then a year or so back, the batteries were slightly corroded, but after cleaning with vinegar and Deoxit, it worked okay. Then, last week when I was checking it in prep for an open mic, I put in new batteries (I had taken them out after my last use about a year ago to avoid another attack of corrosion), and it doesn't work. So, third strike, it's out. Since it's pretty hard to find a replacement, I'll probably take it to my luthier and have him plug the oversize hole and fit a new pickup of some sort, maybe the D-Tar Multi Source system. Open to suggestions, I don't mind spending serious money, after all, I DID get an unbeatable deal on the guitar at LMG 1!

If the one in mine fails (and I went through one round of corroded batteries already), it will get replaced by an LR Baggs Anthem. Any of my pickups that use AA batteries now have no batteries installed ever. I've learned my lesson!

 

[Brad Little]

If the one in mine fails (and I went through one round of corroded batteries already), it will get replaced by an LR Baggs Anthem. Any of my pickups that use AA batteries now have no batteries installed ever. I've learned my lesson!

Yeah, that's on my short list of replacements.

 

[twocorgis]

Yeah, that's on my short list of replacements.

I have two of them, both the less expensive "SL" version. One is in my Martin 000-17SM, and the other in my D40 traditional. I think they both sound great, especially through the Baggs ParaDI.

 

[chazmo]

You certainly did get an unbeatable deal, Brad.

Hey, the D-TAR multi-source was by far the best system I heard (at LMG4). It's not called that anymore, by the way, as these days it's the Seymour Duncan wavelength duo system. I think it's the same system, but I think they may have re-spun the printed circuit card (so I don't know if it's got the same components or not).

Baggs Anthem is highly regarded too, Brad. I think Guild is using that these days on their new stuff.

By the way, the issue of your Load n lock is kind of separate from the system itself. I recommend either way that you replace the load n lock with a battery pouch or something else. Having said that, regardless of what you do with the batteries for a new system, I suggest you remove them when you're not playing. If you use Lithium batteries, you'll be far less likely to have problems, but the best solution is to remove them when not being used.

 

[walrus]

I never thought too much of the DTAR Wavelength system in my '11 F-30RCE. And I'm not clear on the differences between that one, the DTAR Multisource, and/or the DTAR Lock and Load. I'm not asking for an answer about the differences, BTW.

Anyway, I have avoided any problems by removing it soon after I got the guitar. Hence, my signature of the "F-30RC".

 

[Brad Little]

By the way, the issue of your Load n lock is kind of separate from the system itself. I recommend either way that you replace the load n lock with a battery pouch or something else.

Occurred to me, too, but not sure where the leads are on it. I'll have to check next time I need to change strings. I think I still have one of the old ones, so I can mess around with it and see if I can figure out a way to use a battery holder.
Here's a photo of an old one, I would assume that red is pos and black is neg, yellow and white are for the tip and ring of the input jack.

So I guess I should be able to just connect a battery holder's red and black to the red and black leads going in to the case. Hey, the worst that can happen is it won't work!

 

[adorshki]

Hence, my signature of the "F-30RC".

A radio controlled F30?!?!?

 

[chazmo]

Occurred to me, too, but not sure where the leads are on it. I'll have to check next time I need to change strings. I think I still have one of the old ones, so I can mess around with it and see if I can figure out a way to use a battery holder.
Here's a photo of an old one, I would assume that red is pos and black is neg, yellow and white are for the tip and ring of the input jack.

So I guess I should be able to just connect a battery holder's red and black to the red and black leads going in to the case. Hey, the worst that can happen is it won't work!

That might work, Brad. I think the leads are attached to the underside of that printed circuit board. if you take out those four screws you can probably see where the wires are soldered on. That blob of epoxy in the upper left corner might have to be cracked to get the board loose.

But, honestly, looking at it again, I think I'd actually replace the whole thing. The load 'n lock just isn't the way to go even if you re-wire to another battery pack.

One thing you could do is save the existing Wavelength UST itself and install a D-TAR multi-source PCB (and battery pack). It's just that the load 'n lock will leave a gaping endpin hole that will probably need to be filled or replaced with the D-TARs normal endpin jack.

Sigh, I'm not giving you great answers.

 

[Bill Ashton]

The DTAR Multi in my D55 suffered from battery corrosion from new Duracells. Easy to say take the batteries out after playing, but not if you have to remove the strings! I figured I was sunk, but see that Seymour Duncan still offers a version, so I hope (clearly not warranty) that I can get a new battery holder for mine.

 

[Bill Ashton]

There are bunch of newer p/u systems out there. I will agree that at our last LMG the DTAR Multi Source was the winner, but if changing a system out, there may be a ton of 'em to look at...the last LMG was...gulp!...over ten years ago!

 

[Brad Little]

One thing you could do is save the existing Wavelength UST itself and install a D-TAR multi-source PCB (and battery pack). It's just that the load 'n lock will leave a gaping endpin hole that will probably need to be filled or replaced with the D-TARs normal endpin jack.

Sigh, I'm not giving you great answers.

Yeah, the oversize hole is an issue, I'll try the battery holder first. Then I guess if I do go that way, it will have to be plugged, or possible some sort of plate, similar to those on some electrics:

 

[Brad Little]

That might work, Brad. I think the leads are attached to the underside of that printed circuit board. if you take out those four screws you can probably see where the wires are soldered on. That blob of epoxy in the upper left corner might have to be cracked to get the board loose.

I'll probably just clip them where they are connected to the battery housing and connect the new leads to them rather than open the case. I have some tiny wire nuts, so I'll do that and see if it works, then think about soldering the leads together and covering in shrink tubing.