First post, so hi everyone. Hit the top of my 1988 D25m and cracked the side. About 5" closed crack between the bouts and 3/4-1" below the top. Already have a luthier picked out, but would appreciate knowledge on how this will turn out. Thanks
Cracked my baby
- Thread starter millrat
- Start date
Depends on the guitar, the crack and the luthier. Regardless of the specifics, a side crack should be repairable in a way that leaves the guitar structurally sound and sonically intact. Depending on the severity of the crack, laminated sides can be more difficult to repair invisibly, if it's cracked all the way through with the wood pushed out of plane with itself on either side, as the different fibers of the plies don't always like to cleanly mesh back together. That having been said, it can be cleaned up, realigned and glued tight, perhaps with small wood cleats inside. Solid wood is easier to realign and glue up invisibly (not familiar w/ spec on '80s D25s).
Minimum acceptable expectations I'd have, going in would be for the wood to be reglued in a way that's structurally sound and relatively smooth to the touch, though not necessarily invisible. I always tried to have that expectation w/ any crack I brought my guy to repair -- that it'd look just as obvious as it did, going in, but would be structurally sound and smooth to the touch. Sometimes they came out virtually invisible, and other times there was still a pretty obvious crack line. The extent to which the crack disappears will depend on the nature of the break and skill of the repairperson.
Minimum acceptable expectations I'd have, going in would be for the wood to be reglued in a way that's structurally sound and relatively smooth to the touch, though not necessarily invisible. I always tried to have that expectation w/ any crack I brought my guy to repair -- that it'd look just as obvious as it did, going in, but would be structurally sound and smooth to the touch. Sometimes they came out virtually invisible, and other times there was still a pretty obvious crack line. The extent to which the crack disappears will depend on the nature of the break and skill of the repairperson.
Welcome to LTG, millrat!
We probably can't advise much without some pictures, but of course your luthier can discuss it with you after some hands-on inspection
Sorry that this is your first post/introduction to the site (i.e., too bad it's not better circumstances). In any case, your D-25 has a solid wood top (which I think is stained spruce) and is almost certainly repairable with cleats. If you punctured and splintered the wood, it may require more than cleating to stablize though. Good luck, and again welcome aboard.
We probably can't advise much without some pictures, but of course your luthier can discuss it with you after some hands-on inspection
Sorry that this is your first post/introduction to the site (i.e., too bad it's not better circumstances). In any case, your D-25 has a solid wood top (which I think is stained spruce) and is almost certainly repairable with cleats. If you punctured and splintered the wood, it may require more than cleating to stablize though. Good luck, and again welcome aboard.
Thanks for the welcome, I hope to hang around and gather some info. I've owned this guitar for almost 30 years and would never think of parting with it. I haven't set up to post pics yet. My hope is that I can get it stable for the next 30 years.
wileypickett
Enlightened Member
Side crack repairs are usually less visible than top crack repairs because the sides on most guitars are dark wood (mahogony, EIR, etc.) and the glue lines blend with the grain lines.
Top crack repairs (at least on natural tops) are almost always discernable.
Good luck!
Top crack repairs (at least on natural tops) are almost always discernable.
Good luck!
GuildFS4612CE
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I don't think you have to worry about it being restored to a good playable condition...after 30 years it likely has some battle scars anyway...what's one more...enjoy it for another 30.
Spoke with the shop that will do the work, taking it in Friday so he can see it in person. Sounds like it is straightforward fix. Does have a couple of dings so this will add a little more character. Thanks for the reassurance
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Guildedagain
Enlightened Member
Should be the easiest fix unless it's busted open. Basically clean, glue and cleat.
Learned a trick for gluing cracks years ago from one of the best luthiers in this area. He would hydrate the guitar in a trash bag with a bunch of wet sponges, swells the wood and close cracks. Then glue and cleat. Top cracks repaired in this way can become virtually invisible.
You'll notice that the [good] luthiers main concern is cleaning. Clean all of the grunge out of an old crack with spirits, clean, clean, and reclean, and you will end up with very good looking repairs.
Learned a trick for gluing cracks years ago from one of the best luthiers in this area. He would hydrate the guitar in a trash bag with a bunch of wet sponges, swells the wood and close cracks. Then glue and cleat. Top cracks repaired in this way can become virtually invisible.
You'll notice that the [good] luthiers main concern is cleaning. Clean all of the grunge out of an old crack with spirits, clean, clean, and reclean, and you will end up with very good looking repairs.
Fortunately it really is just a crack in the side from the compression caused by my elbow hitting the top of the guitar. Crack is tight and just barely offset. Haven't played it since I cracked it. Should be clean other than a couple of shed tears lol. Headed to Eugene today to the guitar doctor.