AcornHouse
Venerated Member
Order placed for some 3mm OD tubes. Then I can cut and file some teeth.I'm thinking about ordering a stainless steel tube, 3/16" OD, and filing some cutting teeth in it. I only need it to work once.
Order placed for some 3mm OD tubes. Then I can cut and file some teeth.I'm thinking about ordering a stainless steel tube, 3/16" OD, and filing some cutting teeth in it. I only need it to work once.
It’s completely under the tuner plate, as long as I keep the hole small. Trying to hit the embedded piece, concave or convex, with any bit that small is bound to start flexing and moving. Not to mention the difficulty in securing an angled headstock attached to an instrument to a drill press table. When I make the hollow bit to drill out around it I’ll make a guide plate that I can clamp to the headstock.Is the broken bit left in the hole concave or convex? Will the repair be hidden under the tuning machine?
I think anything you try will have some risk involved... but if the broken off bit has a CONCAVE surface, I would think it would act to (more-or-less) center a drill bit while drilling the screw bit out. It looks to be about 3/64 dia... If I had a really good drill press, I might try to slowly and carefully drill the screw out, starting with the smallest drill bit possible. If the fates are smiling on you, you might end up with a hole sufficiently small for your new, larger screw. If not, or if the bit has wandered and your hole isn't quite true, true it up with a slightly larger bit, and plug the hole with a plug made from scrap matching the back plate of the head stock (IIRC, the late Frank Ford's frets.com site described how he used brass tubing to make custom plug cutters), then re-drill for a new screw. The grain and pore structure of that wood looks like you could make a plug near invisible, and completely invisible if its covered by the plate of the tuning machine.
Good luck!
Ima just gonna wait for my hollow tube. It’s the same way used by the expensive StewMac kit and the larger woodworking store varieties. Just smaller.Can you drill touching the side of the screw and push the broken part into the newly adjoining hole?
I won't be able to cut any side holes I'm sure. But I can just cut the filled bit off and throw away. Or maybe try to burn the wood out if I'm feeling frugal. (If, )A hollow drill - trephine - I got a set for my strat neck strap screw - worked wonders. The hole will be slightly larger than outside diameter of the screw. Once the screw is out you can fill the hole and start anew. Luckily in your case the tuner plate hides the crime scene.
But then - while living in MN - I learned that indians working on their masterfull handworks deliberately left some little mistakes there - in order to not insult the perfectness of the almighty
I bought this set from eBay some years ago - price was somewhere 30-50€ incl VAT + shipping.
Blade size is outside diameter - wall thickness about 0,5mm
I won't be able to cut any side holes I'm sure. But I can just cut the filled bit off and throw away. Or maybe try to burn the wood out if I'm feeling frugal. (If, )
In the set you show, there are holes in the shaft, presumably to clean out the wood.Am I missing something?
A trephine is hollow drill bit that fits around the broken screw - just like the tube you have ordered - drill deep enough and you can pull everything out - clean the hole - fill it - drill right size hole for new screw.
I never suggested any side holes . . .
Screw still needs to go into something.If it's covered by the tuner, why waste the time filling the hole?
<Ducks>
Toothpicks!Screw still needs to go into something.
<Gooses>
Toothpicks=low strength cheap woodToothpicks!
<Owls>
Am I doing this right?
Toothpicks=low strength cheap wood
Oak=strength
<Albatrosses>