AHG octave mando build

[GGJaguar]

You should build a craviola next. It's unique and Jimmy Page approved!

 

[The Guilds of Grot]

You should build a craviola next. It's unique and Jimmy Page approved!

Is that a commission request?

 

[AcornHouse]

You should build a craviola next. It's unique and Jimmy Page approved!

That would probably involve trademark infringement.

 

[AcornHouse]

Tailpiece arrived today. A little disappointed. Not because it was less than expected, but because it was more.
I'd ordered an Allen non-polished unplated cast bronze tailpiece. This was the pic on their website.


I would have preferred one with a nickel finish to match the tuners, but they didn't offer any. In fact, I couldn't find any cast ones in a nickel finish of any kind. I also prefer Allen to the cheaper import versions because they go to the trouble of making the posts canted back in a teardrop shape, rather than just a vertical round post. Much easier to string with.
The above bronze look, with it's earthy tones, would work well with the cedar and walnut.

So this was what I received.


Not terribly earthy, and a bit more polished, with too much of a brassy, dare I say, goldy, look. Oh, the irony!

But, I have a cunning plan. When I couldn't find any suitable nickel ones, I started looking at nickel plating. Turns out it's incredibly easy to do at home without much, if any, specialized equipment. Plus I can do a brushed texture like the tuners.

Anyone do any home plating? Any tips?

 

[GGJaguar]

Home metal plating? This is going to be interesting!

 

[davismanLV]

Home metal plating? This is going to be interesting!

His bathtub is never gonna be the same!!

 

[Nuuska]

Adjustable lab-psu and plastic tub + some chemicals - rest is know-how and patience.

 

[chazmo]

Tailpiece arrived today. A little disappointed. Not because it was less than expected, but because it was more.
I'd ordered an Allen non-polished unplated cast bronze tailpiece. This was the pic on their website.


I would have preferred one with a nickel finish to match the tuners, but they didn't offer any. In fact, I couldn't find any cast ones in a nickel finish of any kind. I also prefer Allen to the cheaper import versions because they go to the trouble of making the posts canted back in a teardrop shape, rather than just a vertical round post. Much easier to string with.
The above bronze look, with it's earthy tones, would work well with the cedar and walnut.

So this was what I received.


Not terribly earthy, and a bit more polished, with too much of a brassy, dare I say, goldy, look. Oh, the irony!

But, I have a cunning plan. When I couldn't find any suitable nickel ones, I started looking at nickel plating. Turns out it's incredibly easy to do at home without much, if any, specialized equipment. Plus I can do a brushed texture like the tuners.

Anyone do any home plating? Any tips?

Any thoughts on sending it back, Chris? I mean, clearly they polished the thing (or at least part of it). Shame. I see what you liked about the rugged appearance of what was advertised.

 

[GGJaguar]

Adjustable lab-psu and plastic tub + some chemicals - rest is know-how and patience.

It's science!

 

[AcornHouse]

Any thoughts on sending it back, Chris? I mean, clearly they polished the thing (or at least part of it). Shame. I see what you liked about the rugged appearance of what was advertised.

Well, I’d had the nickel plating idea in the back of my mind, which would match the tuners better. And it will work better on this one that doesn’t have the rougher surface of the expected one.

While I do like the unpolished bronze and think it would work well with the woods, I was trying to justify it not matching the tuners.

So, kismet, maybe?

 

[Default]

Tailpiece arrived today. A little disappointed. Not because it was less than expected, but because it was more.
I'd ordered an Allen non-polished unplated cast bronze tailpiece. This was the pic on their website.


I would have preferred one with a nickel finish to match the tuners, but they didn't offer any. In fact, I couldn't find any cast ones in a nickel finish of any kind. I also prefer Allen to the cheaper import versions because they go to the trouble of making the posts canted back in a teardrop shape, rather than just a vertical round post. Much easier to string with.
The above bronze look, with it's earthy tones, would work well with the cedar and walnut.

So this was what I received.


Not terribly earthy, and a bit more polished, with too much of a brassy, dare I say, goldy, look. Oh, the irony!

But, I have a cunning plan. When I couldn't find any suitable nickel ones, I started looking at nickel plating. Turns out it's incredibly easy to do at home without much, if any, specialized equipment. Plus I can do a brushed texture like the tuners.

Anyone do any home plating? Any tips?

I have made the nickel solution using a lab power supply from Amazon. I bought a couple of nickel anodes to use, all so I can replate the tailpiece for the CE-100, but I completely ran out of gas. It's not difficult, but you have to keep the solution moving or bubbles will cause poor plating. Ideally, the solution should be about 140 degrees (in American Freedom Units) and the amperage should be fairly low.

 

[Default]

Solution is made with vinegar, a bit of salt to increase conductivity, and some 99% pure nickel strips for connecting battery packs. You can get that anywhere.

 

[AcornHouse]

I have made the nickel solution using a lab power supply from Amazon. I bought a couple of nickel anodes to use, all so I can replate the tailpiece for the CE-100, but I completely ran out of gas. It's not difficult, but you have to keep the solution moving or bubbles will cause poor plating. Ideally, the solution should be about 140 degrees (in American Freedom Units) and the amperage should be fairly low.

My evil plan is to use an old ipad charger for the

 

[GAD]

My evil plan is to use an old ipad charger for the

Have you researched that as being viable? I don't know what the current requirements are for plating, but an ipad charger (depending on model) doesn't really move much current. I know when I was looking into anodizing (which I know is very different) you needed a constant current supply which is something that cheap power supplies don't do well.

 

[GAD]

A quick Googling suggests that you need 9 amps per square foot or less for most metals and chrome needs 200 amps per square foot. Yikes. That's a lot of amps for chrome!

Doing some quick math a 20W USB-C Ipad Charger will deliver only 0.167A so it probably maxes at roughly double that. Even a big 85W Macbook Pro charger only delivers .7A and the label states max draw of 1.5A.

I don't know if you can use a lower current and let it take longer, though.

 

[AcornHouse]

A quick Googling suggests that you need 9 amps per square foot or less for most metals and chrome needs 200 amps per square foot. Yikes. That's a lot of amps for chrome!

Doing some quick math a 20W USB-C Ipad Charger will deliver only 0.167A so it probably maxes at roughly double that. Even a big 85W Macbook Pro charger only delivers .7A and the label states max draw of 1.5A.

I don't know if you can use a lower current and let it take longer, though.

The various videos and online material recommend, among other things, old phone chargers for the current for home use. Around 0.5 amps. If you use higher amperage things can get very hot, very quickly. Making the nickel solution can take a few more hours at that level, but time is cheap for the home. I’m sure pro outfits use higher amps to get it done as quickly as possible, but they have a much more robust set up with plenty of health and safety measures.
Plus the size of the job is more square inches, not square feet.

 

[Nuuska]

A quick Googling suggests that you need 9 amps per square foot or less for most metals and chrome needs 200 amps per square foot. Yikes. That's a lot of amps for chrome!

Doing some quick math a 20W USB-C Ipad Charger will deliver only 0.167A so it probably maxes at roughly double that. Even a big 85W Macbook Pro charger only delivers .7A and the label states max draw of 1.5A.

I don't know if you can use a lower current and let it take longer, though.

Aren't you referring to primary amps now ???

20W @ 5V = 4A

 

[Default]

From the youtube videos, you don't want more than about three amps through the nickle solution, and it isn't supposed to take more than 15 minutes, ideally.

Chrome plating also involves some pretty dangerous chemicals, so that is something you have to take to a plating company.

 

[AcornHouse]

Lower current is even a benefit when doing the actual plating. More current = more bubbles = poorer plating. That’s why they have the solution set up to a strong flow in the commercial outfits, to keep things moving over the piece(s) and pop those bubbles.

 

[Opsimath]

This sounds a tad scary. Good luck! I hope it comes out perfectly!