Age old string question?

[scottyF50R]

Dealer had put some new strings on my F50R. I didn't like them so I threw on some Martin SP lights.....better but not as good as I think it can be. I use John Pearse on my Martins.....and I know that the sound we like is very subjective depending on the person, but can you guys give ideas as to what you might be playing right now. Thanks

 

[Mr. P ~]

I have played nothing but John Pearse Medium Phosphor Bronze since they were introduced.

Ocasionally try something else, but always go back. 8)

 

[california]

If it ain't broke, don't fix it -- Pearse all the way.

 

[West R Lee]

Got another string question.

Since I haven't done it in a bout 25 years, I decided to read the Guild owners manual the other night, just to kill a few minutes. When you guys change strings to you pull them all, then replace them all, or do you change them one at a time?

West

 

[dklsplace]

Check out the favorite strings thread. Lots of JP endorsements, including me. I've also recently tried my first set of Thomastic Infeld Plectrums & so far I love them!

West, I change mine one at a time unless I'm spending time oiling/cleaning the fretboard.

 

[West R Lee]

Well I must have missed that part so many years ago Don, but I'll be dad gummed if it doesn't tell you right there in the blasted owner's manual to change 'em one at a time so as not to cause sudden fluctuations in neck tension. I've never done it, and I change strings quite a bit. I've always pulled them all! Wow, I'm embarressed. I probably shouldn't have told that one on myself!

Never had a neck problem that I know of though.

West

 

[Dr Izza Plumber]

I always start by loosening strings in pairs (one tuner per side) from the center out. After they are all loose, I remove them, clean, & check tuning machines for function, some waxing, and re-install the same way I loosen the strings.
Pairs from the center outward.

I make an afternoon of the job, tuning up slowly, taking My time trying to achieve the best results.

If I've been in a colder climate, I run the guitars to My luthier, (who always makes time for Me), and He checks the neck adjustment before I change strings.

 

[john_kidder]

I do the same, but from the outside in, one side at a time. Then I

• take a soft nail brush with a little Murphy's Oil Soap and clean the fretboard, special attention to the top edge of the frets themselves, then
  get my trusty micro-fibre cloth and a touch of Meguair's polish and do the guitar top, back and sides, then
  just a dab of furniture oil on another cloth for the fretboard and bridge, then
  restring from the inside out, up to tension as I go, then
  up to pitch when they're all on, then
  let the guitar sit for a few minutes, then
  start to play again, then

marvel at the difference new strings always make.

 

[Mr. Magic Takamine]

I start loosning all strings just a half turn from the deep E to the high E - then another half or full turn. When they are all loose, I remove them and clean the fretboard, too and polish it with lemon-oil. Then I polish the whole guitar with canouba wax. When I am ready with poslishing the guitar, I take a new piece of cotton-wool (an old white T-Shirt) and polish the fretboard again so that there is no rest of lemon-oil on it. The bridge gets also a bit of lemon-oil on it - it is the same wood as the fretboard and needs still the same attention.

Then I make the new John Pearse strings on it (600L for my 6-string-Guitar). I just put it on, but I don't tune it up - just a little bit. When all strings are on the guitar, I cut the rest off and begin to tune them up like I loosen them all before - just one to two turns till they are all near in tune. Then I stretch all strings a few times - so they stay in tune just at the first time when they are in pitch...

Then keep on playing - GREAT SOUND!!!

Best regards from Germany - Dietmar

 

[scottyF50R]

It looks like we are going to give the John Pearse Phosphur Bronze atest drive!!

 

[Terry Allan Hall]

Another good reason to replace only one string at a time is that it keeps the contact between your saddle and UST (if any) equal...removing all at once can change that equal contact in a very negative way!

As for strings, Elixor Polys, always!

 

[george kraushaar]

strings

I'll use anything as long as they are light gauge. Im very lucky with almost any brand string except for Martin; they die quickly on me.

 

[West R Lee]

I'm with you George, I don't like the thought of the added stress of heavier strings on any of mine. I also like lights since I fingerpick bare fingered and they are easier for me to play. Might not have quite the volume, but enough for me.

Furthermore, I don't know that I've ever read Guild to recommend anything on an acoustic other than light guage, I'm not saying they never have, I've just never read it.

West

 

[scottyF50R]

Thanks for the input gang. I put on a set of John Pearse 600L's and am really pleased with the results. More depth and louder bass and still those ringing highs without the edginess of the Martin SP's. Played all weekend long and am really pleased with the F50!! The action is just awesome. It is such a joy to play. This is without a doubt the nicest playing guitar that I have ever played. Just awesome!!

 

[SugarMountain]

see, i just loosen em till i can unravel from the peg, but i just go down E to e, why do them in pairs, from the inside out or such

is there a reason why i shouldnt just go at them in order??

 

[scottyF50R]

Sugar Mountain,

I do the same as you from E to e. Some of the techniques listed sound a little excessive to me. Doing them in pairs and tuning them part way then letting them sit for a while, then tuning them to pitch etc. I put them on one by one and tune them by ear as I go....once they have all been changed I tune them with my tuner play for awhile and then tune them again. Never had any problems. I don't understand why going from outside in would make a difference?

 

[SugarMountain]

yeh same scot, i wouldnt imagine any change in tension or un even tension would effect the guitar structually atall in the small time it takes to change strings.

if someone can come up with a good reason perhaps ill play along

 

[West R Lee]

Scott,

Glad you're in love with the F50, that's one hell of a guitar.

Sugar,

I'm like you........always just snatched 'em all off and stuck 'em on. The only reason that I can see that you would use all of these other methods is to hold equal tension on everything.....saddle, bridge, neck, top, etc. The other thing, I believe it was Terry Lynn Hall that mentioned it......I have a D55 that HAD a saddle that had a high spot in it. Since put a new bone saddle in it and cleaned the slot. On that one, if you weren't careful to maintain pretty equal pressure, you could conceivably cock the saddle in the slot. I would think with uneven pressure on the saddle, strings on one end of the saddle could project and sustain longer and louder than the other end. Nothing scientific to base that on, just my opinion.

Again, I've always pulled them all and stuck them back on, but the Guild owner's manual does tell you to change them one at a time. I would suspect for the reasons listed.

West