Advice on re-gluing a bridge

CurtO

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Hi all, I have been given a project guitar to work on. It's not a great guitar. A late 60's or 70's model Alvarez. The bridge needs to be reglued. I've never done this before so am really looking for what type of glue is best. If I don't have any hide glue handy, would Gorilla Glue work?

Thanks for any and all advice.

CurtO
 

cjd-player

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I would not use Gorilla Glue!
It expands as it cures.
It might seep out from under the bridge and create a mess around the edges that will likely damage the finish on the guitar top.

White or yellow PVA would be my choice. That's regular old Elmers (white), or Titebond or Elmers wood glue(yellow).
Any seep-out can be removed with a damp cloth before it dries, and it won't damage the finish on the top.

After hide glue, they would be the best choice.

PVA glues can be undone in the future. Not as easiliy as hide glue, but joints can be separated.
 

CurtO

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I also have Elmers wood Glue. It may never be played again anyway. It's a keep sake for an older freind of my wife and I. The guitar belonged to his daughter who was killed in a car accident about 35 years or so ago.

Thanks CJD
 

wright1

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Hi Curt, Cjd is right to recommend Titebond. Regular PVA wood glue is not the best because it will 'creep' under tension. Aliphatic wood glue like Titebond is less likely to do this. Some makers will use this glue to build a whole guitar and I would be happy to use this glue to hold a classical bridge that does't have the benefit of the string tension being held by the top as in a pin bridge. It can still be softened for removal with heat.
Is there any reason why this guitar won't play again? Would it upset the family to hear the sound? Too many memories?
All the best, Steve.
 

mario1956

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Curt,
I agree with the others about using Titebond or some liquid hide glue would work. Look on FRETS.com at some bridge repairs to get a feel for doing it. They also have links to many other repair sites that could be useful. If the top is damaged you might consider trying to repair that before gluing the bridge. It may be worth it even if the guitar will never be used. Just curious can you tell what model it is? Alvarez has the model number on the label inside the body. You can see it through the soundhole.
 

CurtO

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Thanks for the advice everyone. Next time I need to glue a bridge I'll use Titebond. For this one, I used good ol Elmers wood glue, the yellow stuff. I haven't strung it up yet but the bridge seems to be pretty solid at this point. I'm pretty confident it will play fine once I get new strings on it. This reapair is really only to get the guitar restored for sentimental reasons. No one in the current family plays. This Alverez was obvioiusly a beginners model; Model #4103 Made in Japan. All plywood contruction, twisted neck, fret board has hills and valleys up and down. All the same I'm a bit curious to see how it plays and sounds so I'll be stringing it up tomorrow after purchasing some new strings. I'll post to let everyone know if the bridge stays on! :wink:

P.S. what's PVA stand for?
 

cjd-player

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Curt,
Titebond and Elmer's yellow wood glues are essentially the same thing. They are aliphatic resin PVA glues. So don't worry about the difference. Its kinda like Gibson versus Fender. Are they exactly identical? I don't know. But I do know that some professional woodworkers prefer Titebond, some prefer Elmer's.

PVA is polyvinyl acetate glue. The white version is the typical white Elmer's glue. Titebond manufactures their own version of that also. The yellows have the aliphatic resin additives.

The whites and yellows have lots of similarities. But Steve is absolutely correct that the yellow glues are more resistant to creep than the white glue. The yellows also come in water-resistant versions.

Just as an aside, you often see the white PVA glue marketed for specific markets such as "Craft Glue" or "Instrument Glue", "School Glue" etc. and typically at a very inflated price. They just take advantage of the fact that most people don't know any better. Just but the cheapest Elmer's you can find. Its all the same stuff.
 

West R Lee

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When I was a kid in school taking wood shop, there was only one kind of glue our teacher would let us use for glueing any tables, chairs, etc. together. That was plain old Elmer's. How it would do under constant string tension, I wouldn't have a clue. I've used it on a many a piece of furniture.

West
 

cjd-player

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In properly made furniture, there would rarely if ever be a structural component that was always under constant tension. There could be tension on a member while in use, such as a foot resting on a chair rung, but not the constant tension of guitar strings.

In all-wood furniture, the elasticity of the wood comes into play as well. At the moment, I can't think of any piece of furniture where a steel member would be constantly putting tension on a wooden member.

So for 99.99% of furniture, regular white Elmer's is fine. The alphiatic resins (yellows) have some other advantages in set up time, and are more heat and moisture resistant, and are thus preferred in many woodworking applications. Although, in some applications, such as gluing a sliding dovetail and veneering, the white PVA glue is actually the preferred choice.

I seem to recall an article in "Fine Woodworking" magazine for which tests were done, and which showed no significant difference in joint strength between the white and yellow PVAs.

Guitar (instrument) building is a unique niche of woodworking in which many of the classical do's and don'ts are not and cannot be followed.

Imagine if built you a custom dining room table, or a desk, and then told you that you must keep it at roughly 35 to 50% relative humidity, or it would self destruct.
 

Jeff

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Titebond, at least in theory, is a better choice for outdoor use or projects in damp environments.

I've never had regular old yellow Elmers woodworking glue fail. I buy a gallon & it lasts me several years.
 

CurtO

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Well I finally strung up the old clunker and despite the hills and valleys in the neck.. with sufficient string height above the frets the guitar plays fine up to about the 7th fret. :)

The glue is holding fine the guitar stays in tune and I was able to lower the action enough to make it playable. At least now I can return the hairloom to it's owner in one piece and they can actually play it if they feel so inclined. Thanks everyone for my new Glue education!! I'm sure it will "stick" with me for years... :wink:
 
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