A Tale of Two Saddles

Christopher Cozad

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Warning: Non-Guild content. May not be suitable for some viewers.

A dear friend contacted me with a sad story. He had set an Anniversary Martin D-28 HD on a Grand Piano intending to retrieve a stand on which to properly rest the guitar. In so doing, he caught his foot on the cable plugged in to the end pin jack of that guitar, and ...

... the guitar exploded as it hit the stage! It spent several months at a repair shop before its anxious owner was informed that "it just wasn't worth repairing." Naturally, he then called me. Short version: I rebuilt the Martin. It was "okay" before, but after? Wow! It became a fantastic instrument, one that I would be proud to own.

For some context, I took what was left of the guitar apart, carefully removing the back (pieces) from the sides (pieces) from the soundboard (mostly intact). I did not replace the soundboard, but I rebraced it, added a new bridgeplate, micro-cleated the cracks and splits. The ebony fretboard looked like the backyard after the dogs have dug up all their bones, so I planed it flat and refretted it. The gouges on the back of the neck looked like open sores, so I repaired them. Most of the work I did was on the jigsaw puzzle of Rosewood back and sides, before reassembling the instrument. I added new herringbone purfling and new binding to the body, front and back. I tinted the back of the neck and got everything prepped for spraying with clear Nitro...

HD-28-04.jpeg

HD-28-05.jpeg

I made a new ebony bridge, reset and glued the neck on and glued the bridge down (to raw wood - not the lacquer finish). I fashioned a new bone nut and saddle. The saddle was perfectly intonated. With a new set of strings, it sounded amazing and played like "butta."

Fast-forward 1 year...

That same owner purchased a brand new Gibson Hummingbird, the 1960 remake version (Torrified top, VOS finish, the works). He wanted me to install a pickup in it and set it up "like the Martin. And, while I was at it, could I check the Martin, 'cause he had tried to lower the saddle a bit but now it didn't sound as good."

When I first strummed the Hummingbird my reaction was, "Meh!". I'm sorry, but a $6k guitar should sound better.

I added the same JME Ultra Tonic pickup to the Gibson that I had installed in the Martin, and calibrated it on the computer for anti-feedback. The bone nut that came with the Hummingbird had the slots cut properly, but they were much too high. This made the strings more difficult to depress, so I lowered the slots. I fashioned a new bone saddle to replace what came with the guitar. It was a non-intonated piece of bone, clearly cut on a CNC (with that tell-tale ridge running down the center of the top of the saddle). Curious, I checked the base of the saddle against a straightedge. It was seriously curved, as in, not flat, not at all! It rocked, just not in a good way. I set it aside to show the owner, later.

With the new saddle and a brand new set of D'Addario XS 80/20 Lights installed, it was a different guitar. Though I personally do not care for the "vintage finish," the guitar now sounded great, just what I would expect from an expensive Mahogany dreadnought.

I put the Hummingbird in its case and unstrung the Martin to get at the saddle. Sure enough, in his attempt to "slightly lower the action," the owner had unwittingly sanded a beautiful curve into the bottom of the saddle. I flattened the bottom of the saddle, returned it to its flat slot, re-strung the guitar and Wham! that banjo-killer volume with crystal-clear tone was back.

The owner retrieved both his instruments, now performing as they should -

The moral of the story? Two popular and distinctly different acoustic guitars that should have sounded wonderful didn't because their respective saddles were not seating properly. Once corrected, the guitars rocked - the saddles didn’t.

Is your saddle slot flat?

Is your saddle perfectly seated in its slot?

It may be worth checking.
 

West R Lee

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Just an awesome post Chris. Do you happen to have any pictures of the Martin before performing all the work? I'd love to see that for comparison. Man, what a job. And yes, I agree 100% on saddle seating. The saddle is a much bigger deal than many folks think. Sounds like you've done outstanding work there.

West
 
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twocorgis

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Great post Christopher! I too have experienced this when a saddle wasn't seated properly. Most notable was my cheapo Seagull Maritime SWS. Turned into a completely different (and surprisingly good) instrument when I reseated the bridge first time I saw it. and that was with strings that were ten different shades of green!
 

Christopher Cozad

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One would think it would be a great idea to take quality photos BEFORE beginning such a project, wouldn’t one? :rolleyes:

The best image I have is this shot, where the major pieces were taped together to keep the guitar upright so I could snap the photo. The soundboard had two major splits in it, and is actually taped down onto pieces of the sides, just to hold the sides in place. I didn’t even think to photograph the back as it was shredded with splits. It sure came out nice, though.

HD-28-00.jpeg
 

Christopher Cozad

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Great post Christopher! I too have experienced this when a saddle wasn't seated properly. Most notable was my cheapo Seagull Maritime SWS. Turned into a completely different (and surprisingly good) instrument when I reseated the bridge first time I saw it. and that was with strings that were ten different shades of green!
Hi Sandy. I have had cousins of those green-hued strings visit me from time to time. New moral of the story: Drop the strings arguments. at least until you have addressed the saddle!

I just handed over those two guitars (from my story) this afternoon and, as a result, I am now on a saddle rampage. :p The difference between the before and after of both the Martin and the Gibson was so significant... If anyone had told me the story, I would nod, knowingly. Sure. Sure. Yep. I know, right? Been there, done that.

And then I experienced it for myself again in such a dramatic way with these two excellent instruments that sounded so bad until their saddles were seated properly. I will be speaking “saddle” -ese for awhile, now, much to the chagrin of everyone within earshot.
 

HeyMikey

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Very insightful Chris. Do you happen to have photos of the rounded saddle bottoms? I always think mine are flat but now wonder just how little a difference it takes?
 

Christopher Cozad

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Hey Mikey, I did not think to photograph the saddles I wrote about. Not until after they were no longer available to photograph.

Here is an example of a rather dramatically curved-bottom saddle. It does not take anywhere near this amount of “gap” to create an issue. To test your own saddle(s), you need a perfectly flat straight-edge and a good light source. There should be NO light showing beneath the saddle.

saddle-rounded-bottom.jpeg
 

geoguy

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I'll try to rock a saddle on a pane of glass, or a glass tabletop. They seem to be fairly reliable, as flat surfaces.
 

Christopher Cozad

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To fix a curved-bottom saddle, you need a perfectly flat, hard surface, such as a piece of glass plate, marble, or Corian countertop. Afix a piece of 220-grit sandpaper to the plate using either self-stick sandpaper or a spray adhesive (from a hobby store).

If you do not already possess or do not wish to invest in a fixture designed to hold your saddle in the correct position against the sandpaper, you can still achieve a flat-bottomed saddle with a little ingenuity. It is next to impossible to hold a saddle perfectly perpendicular to your new sanding plate WHILE you sand it, even though you are fully convinced that you are going to be the exception. Set a block, such as a piece of wood that IS perpendicular, on top of your sandpaper. Press your saddle against it while you gently form a flat bottom, checking it from time to time using a straight-edge held in front of a light.

saddle-sanding-block.jpeg
 

chazmo

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Hey Mikey, I did not think to photograph the saddles I wrote about. Not until after they were no longer available to photograph.

Here is an example of a rather dramatically curved-bottom saddle. It does not take anywhere near this amount of “gap” to create an issue. To test your own saddle(s), you need a perfectly flat straight-edge and a good light source. There should be NO light showing beneath the saddle.

saddle-rounded-bottom.jpeg
That is extreme! Yikes!

Very nice work on the HD-28, Chris. I can't believe some clown told the owner that it wasn't worth fixing. That's just bogus.
 

Christopher Cozad

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I can't believe some clown told the owner that it wasn't worth fixing. That's just bogus.

This particular guitar and its owner had a long history together, so there was a strong nostalgia factor. Personally, I can relate to that. I understand this to be, perhaps, a broader perspective of “value” or “worth.”

In my world, there are tangible differences between repair, restore and rebuild, each having its own costs associated, both monetary and otherwise. Repair can be very broadly defined, as it has all kinds of quality factors associated with it. It is so important that two parties are defining a given repair the same way. Additionally, the same repair can be inexpensive, affordable, or very expensive, all depending on who does the work. When the cost of repair exceeds the cost of replacement, suddenly one has to consider whether it is just the guitar that one is seeking to replace, or the memories associated with it. Are those “worth” the investment? This Martin’s owner did not simply want the guitar stuck back together, in the most affordable way possible.

Restoration is perhaps the most costly, as it seeks to repair to the point of being indistinguishable from the original. I am sure you will agree that fixing a guitar and restoring it to its original condition are two separate animals. There are a whole lot more “fixers” than there are “restorers” out here, and for all the right and wrong reasons. But this Martin’s owner did not want a full restoration… or more accurately, he did not want to pay for a full restoration.

Enter the world of rebuilding. This genre sits between repair and restore. Or more off to one side, maybe. When there is too much damage to repair, but no interest in financing a restore, a rebuild might be just the ticket. That is what I did with this Martin. Would a casual observer recognize any differences between a rebuilt Martin and a restored Martin? Probably not. Would a guitar expert? Most certainly. I think of a rebuild as more of a one-way street, a new direction, breathing new life into something old. But I am waaay off topic, aren’t I?

I realize that there are guitar owners who have absolutely no attachment to their instruments, and who view their instruments solely as commodities to be bought and sold, as items on a balance sheet. These owners intend to either profit from their guitar ownership or strictly mitigate any loss. They will rarely, if ever, purchase a brand new guitar, as they are unwilling to suffer that “new guitar” depreciation.

The owner of the Martin that I rebuilt was definitely not in the “commodity” camp, but he did pause when we got down to the money needed to rebuild this guitar. He made the call to make the investment. And he told me today, more than a year after getting his guitar back, that he couldn’t be happier. It was a lot of work, but it is a fine guitar, once again.
 

chazmo

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The owner of the Martin that I rebuilt was definitely not in the “commodity” camp, but he did pause when we got down to the money needed to rebuild this guitar. He made the call to make the investment. And he told me today, more than a year after getting his guitar back, that he couldn’t be happier. It was a lot of work, but it is a fine guitar, once again.
I get it, Chris... I think it's just my appreciation of an HD-28 that puts me in that camp. I'm just delighted that your customer is delighted!
 

Christopher Cozad

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Hey, Chris... What's in the shop these days? What'ch'a cookin up?

A real fun project is on the bench again: I am (finally) completely rebuilding one of my 1975 F-212s, and am documenting the process. Only the Mahogany back and sides (back braces, tailblock, and neck block) will remain from the original guitar. Everything else is being replaced. I have hesitated to load these articles onto the LTG site, as they can be quite massive. Instead, I have offered links to the articles on my own website. But you tell me: If there is interest here, I will happily create a thread for perusal. I am well underway, so there is much to report.

F-212-On-The-Bench.jpg
 

silverfox103

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Chris, that is a beautiful job you did on that Martin.........wow. But what I learned most was about the saddle. Never did I think about checking it for flatness, but I will as soon as we head up north the first of April.

thank you

Tom
 
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