‘76 D55 Neck Reset, Replace Bridge?

[valleyguy]

I’m planning to do a neck reset on my 1976 D55. Measuring the bridge, it is thinner than all the other Guild bridges I have. I suspect someone shaved the bridge in the past instead of doing a neck reset. I’ve only owned the guitar for 15 years.

Should I replace the bridge? What effect on the sound would a bridge replacement make?

 

[Cougar]

I'm no luthier (or even a tech) but I'd say yes, replace the shaved bridge (and the saddle if that's also been shaved, which it probably has if the bridge has been shaved). Ideally you want the string height in front of the bridge to be about 1/2" (with 1/8" saddle and 3/8" bridge). Man, doing your own neck reset is some serious DIY!

 

[davismanLV]

Back in the day, they had bridges of differing heights to mount on the guitars, choosing the one that fits the geometry of the particular guitar. If it's original it might be just fine. Without photos, its difficult to say. Also, do you have a pickup under the saddle? I would think changing the size of the bridge would impact the tone some. How, I have no idea. You want a good break angle, but you don't want the saddle too tall. Do you have someone in mind to do the work or are you doing it yourself? If someone else, what do they say?

 

[valleyguy]

Sorry, I am NOT doing my own neck reset. I’ve got someone that did a reset on my ‘68 D40.

There is no pick up, and I will be having the saddle, nut, and 5 or so frets replaced.

 

[davismanLV]

Sorry, I am NOT doing my own neck reset. I’ve got someone that did a reset on my ‘68 D40.

There is no pick up, and I will be having the saddle, nut, and 5 or so frets replaced.

Oh so what does your person say about the bridge?

 

[davismanLV]

And can you post a photo?

 

[valleyguy]

I haven’t taken it in yet to be done. He’s backed up with work. Seems like all luthiers in the area are super busy.

I measured the height at the 6th string. It is 5/16, with hardly ANY saddle height.
My 2005 D50 is 7/16, as is my F40 ad D50.
‘68 D40 8/16. This had a recent neck reset.

 

[Wilmywood]

I haven’t taken it in yet to be done. He’s backed up with work. Seems like all luthiers in the area are super busy.

I measured the height at the 6th string. It is 5/16, with hardly ANY saddle height.
My 2005 D50 is 7/16, as is my F40 ad D50.
‘68 D40 8/16. This had a recent neck reset.

Do you mean 64ths rather than 16ths?

 

[Br1ck]

I'm not a fan of shaving the bridge. My 70 D 35 had a Brazilian bridge someone shaved. I lucked out and Hans Moust had two NOS at the time, which was nine years ago. By 76 I'd think it would be Indian rosewood, so a new one would be made. I believe Martin uses three different heights to this day, which explains very low saddles on some newer guitars. These bridges could be shaved if needed. To me a neck set is not what I'd do without a refret, nut, and saddle. Gives the luthier a chance to deal with any fretboard issues.

 

[Cougar]

I’m planning to do a neck reset on my 1976 D55. Measuring the bridge, it is thinner than all the other Guild bridges I have. I suspect someone shaved the bridge in the past instead of doing a neck reset. I’ve only owned the guitar for 15 years.

Should I replace the bridge? What effect on the sound would a bridge replacement make?

I was looking at an article at frets.com, which was talking about forestalling a neck reset. This part was particularly pertinent to this thread:

"For those and various other reasons, it may be reasonable to make the instrument play well without raising the saddle and resetting the neck.​

​

You could cut the bridge lower so the saddle sticks up higher. But then when the time comes to reset the neck, the bridge will need to be replaced to restore the original geometry to the guitar."​

That's why a shaved bridge is usually not a good idea -- If you ever do get to the point of a neck reset, you'll need to replace the bridge, too.

 

[GardMan]

A 5/16" bridge MIGHT be the original height for a '70s era Guild. The bridge on my '72 D-35 is only 0.29" under the 6th string, which is LESS than 5/16". It is factory original, and has never been shaved...

 

[valleyguy]

Here’s why I’m really asking the question. I really like the sound of this guitar and I’m afraid changing the bridge will alter that sound. Of course, so may a higher than normal saddle with the current lower bridge.

Does anyone have any thoughts on that?

To give you a little background, I have an ‘05 D55. It’s sound is so different than the 1976 D55. The ‘76 is brighter and more focused. The ‘05 is a little quieter, less bright and has a lot more overtones and harmonics, but for some playing, it is too much, it is less focused.

 

[Cougar]

Here’s why I’m really asking the question. I really like the sound of this guitar and I’m afraid changing the bridge will alter that sound. Of course, so may a higher than normal saddle with the current lower bridge.

Does anyone have any thoughts on that?

To give you a little background, I have an ‘05 D55. It’s sound is so different than the 1976 D55. The ‘76 is brighter and more focused. The ‘05 is a little quieter, less bright and has a lot more overtones and harmonics, but for some playing, it is too much, it is less focused.

Right -- I did notice you asked about the "effect on the sound" in the OP, which hasn't really been addressed. All I know is, the sharper the break angle of the strings over the saddle, the more vibration is transferred to the soundboard. The bridge does not appear to play a part in THAT formula. In fact, it seems reasonable to think that the thinner the bridge, the better that vibration transference. Taken to its extreme, why is there a bridge at all? Just to hold the saddle?

Disclaimer: I'm actually a keyboardist.

 

[Neal]

I still have my high school guitar, a 1973 D-35, so same ballpark age as your D-55.

Over the years, it has suffered a host of indignities, including a shaved bridge and a now-removed Bridge Doctor. Currently, the bridge is thin, the saddle just barely protrudes from the slot, and the bridge pin slots are ramped to provide sufficient break angle. However, the action is just perfect and it sounds great.

My luthier, who is a good man, has politely declined on several occasions to reset the neck and replace the bridge. He argues that the potential increase in power of a taller bridge/saddle may be offset by increased mass.

Now, I know that my guitar pales in value compared to your D-55. So the investment in resetting the neck and replacing the bridge may make more sense to you. Might as well do the frets too, if they are worn.

 

[Br1ck]

You should watch some of Bryan Kimsey's videos. While they are almost all Martin focused, he discusses bridge materials. He can tailor the bridge replacement toward the desired tone. I doubt Indian Rosewood replacing an Indian Rosewood bridge would have much effect. Bryan describes some wood as "hot" which is a sharper attack and more volume. He does this to guitars whose owners want more punch and less resonance. He uses Asian rosewood and Granadillo for this.

I have a Martin D 35 Custom ordered with rosewood bridge and fretboard. It is a lot drier and punchier than ebony. I like that. You may not.

 

[E-Type]

I have a '70 D-25 with a bridge that might not have been shaved, but at 7/32" tall at the highest and flat across all the strings, I am guessing it was (gotta watch that old ruler test!). The low E is less than 3/8" above the top, so I am thinking about a reset. Right now the saddle is just over 3/32" tall. I am wondering if a reset can be paired with a 3/16" saddle and keep the old shaved bridge (the saddle will be taller than the bridge!) You'd have to ask your luthier. Such a tall saddle will stress out the bridge for sure.

 

[Br1ck]

At some point, you just need to get things right. The cheapie ways of putting off a neck reset, more prevalent with cheaper models, only makes the job more expensive when the time comes. I'd only shave the tallest of Martin bridges. I say all in, bridge, reset, frets, nut and saddle. Make it good for twenty or thirty years. Trying to work with a thin saddle will lead to problems. A D 55 is worth it. Heck, my D 35 was worth it.

 

[valleyguy]

At some point, you just need to get things right. The cheapie ways of putting off a neck reset, more prevalent with cheaper models, only makes the job more expensive when the time comes. I'd only shave the tallest of Martin bridges. I say all in, bridge, reset, frets, nut and saddle. Make it good for twenty or thirty years. Trying to work with a thin saddle will lead to problems. A D 55 is worth it. Heck, my D 35 was worth it.

Generally I’d agree with you, but as I said, I’m very fond of the guitar’s sound and fear that a major restructuring will change it. I’ll certainty discuss it with the luthier. One alternative would be to do the neck reset without replacing the bridge, see how it sounds and woks. If need be I can always replace the bridge after the neck reset.

 

[chazmo]

Fred, follow the advice of your luthier. It's his/her responsibility to make the guitar right for you.

 

[Br1ck]

Almost all the luthiers I've talked to real or internet, glue the bridge in first and set the neck to the bridge.