1970 Guild Starfire II bass - 2-way pickup switch

philday

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Dear all,
I'm a newbie here - I've been GASing for a short-scale, semi-hollow bass for a while, and came across a rather nice black 1970 Starfire II available locally. (They've also got a 2015 Gibson ES Les Paul bass which I'm also rather keen on, but will probably end up with the Guild as I preferred the feel & the neck - if that's not heretical to say on a Guild board!)

However, the pickup switch on the Starfire II appeared to be rather 'agricultural' and was only 2-way - neck, or bridge. I was expecting a 3-way switch with both pickups being possible as well. If the 2-way is original, I'd be tempted to leave as is. However, if it is not, I'd prefer a 3-way to give more flexibility - but might ask the shop who have the Guild to do the work before I get it.

Did Starfire IIs ever come with a 2-way switch - or is this likely to be non-original? This bass has (I think) the Guild humbuckers (chrome), and has the deep/hard mini-toggle switch.

Many thanks for any advice you can offer.
Phil
 

nmiller

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No, the original switch would have been a 3-way. Does it look like a conventional pickup selector switch? I'm wondering if the contacts are bent out of shape and it simply doesn't sit nicely in the center position anymore. Is the switch up by the horn or down by the knobs?
 

philday

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It looks like a conventional pickup selector switch - but feels rather more heavy duty, and doesn't appear to have a center position at all. Switch is up by the horn

Image borrowed from the seller


GuildSFII_bodyLarge.jpg
 

nmiller

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That looks like the original switch tip, though granted it could be installed on a non-original switch. I'm also confused because it looks like it's in the center position. I still suspect it's the original switch but something weird is going on with the contacts. If I'm right, it should be easy to fix - and if I'm wrong, I wouldn't hesitate to put a new 3-way in there.
 

philday

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Thanks for the input - I'm waiting on the guy who runs the shop to get back and hope to then visit and try the Guild again.
I'll see if he can have a look at the switch contacts - and if not ask for a new 3-way.
Many thanks
 

fronobulax

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Welcome. That looks like the correct switch. There should be an obvious center position. But I have to ask, why do you think it is a two way or that something is not working?

Note that the mini toggle only effects what the bridge PU is doing. It will sound like a bass boost. Before you decide the switch is bad max out both volumes, max the bridge tone and min the neck tone, find the most bass with the middle toggle and then see whether you can get three distinct tones as you move the selector.
 

philday

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Thanks for the feedback.
I thought it was a 2 way switch as there was no central detent, and when manually put in a central position either one or the other pickup (or both) was disabled.

The mini toggle appeared to operate as expected - bass and volume 'boost' in one position.

I will try your suggestion on the pickup switch testing when I get to see the bass again - but based on what I tried last time it didn't feel or sound like a 3-way switch.
Cheers Phil
 

fronobulax

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The switch has three distinct positions but I'm not use I would use the word "detent" when describing them. But there is something that tells me I'm in the middle besides just looking at the switch and seeing a straight up position.

I'm not in a position to plug in and confirm but my unreliable memory is that if one of the PUs has the volume completely off, the center spot is silent. That, according to the same unreliable memory, often causes folks used to a Gibson style control wiring to wonder if a Guild is broken.
 

mavuser

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those switches can definietly act up, and also break down a little after a few decades. so, Basically what NMiller has suggested...u are prbably blowing right thru second gear, is my guess. just get a NOS switchcraft switch. be sure to keep the tip on yours, so u can use it on the new switch- those are impossible to find!!

u could also just leave it alone and not have the middle. I see no fault in that (neck pickup on its own will always sound best, to my ears, most of the time)
 

lungimsam

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Just put a new three way in and reuse the tip (make sure whatever you put in accepts the tip.
Those tips are the coolest looking tips, imho.
Keep the old switch in case you ever sell it and the buyer wants all the "original" parts.
 

philday

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Just an update to this. The switch was indeed deceased. The nice guitar shop that I was buying it from agreed to replace the switch for one that looked original, and I have just picked up the bass. What fun. Now to learn how to setup a bass with a weird semi-floating bridge :)
 

fronobulax

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Just an update to this. The switch was indeed deceased. The nice guitar shop that I was buying it from agreed to replace the switch for one that looked original, and I have just picked up the bass. What fun. Now to learn how to setup a bass with a weird semi-floating bridge :)

If you are highly motivated you can search for the setup tricks. I will tell what I do because when I am wrong there are several people who will gladly correct me and still remain friends.

I will also not do anything that is not completely reversible. Folks who don't think like I do have been known to reshape the saddles and enlarge the groove the saddles travel in. The desire to do these things to resolve an issue might also go away by changing strings, typically to a lighter gauge.

That said, I adjust the action by raising or lowering the entire bridge plate. There two adjusting things "behind" the saddles. They are large slotted screws on my bridges but on other examples you need a hex or Allen wrench. These are closer to the saddles than the two screws than anchor the bridge plate. I've never adjusted them. I expect some tilt in the bridge plate with the bass side being lower if I want the top of the strings to be the same distance from the fingerboard at, for example, the 12th fret.

When I'm happy with the height, I adjust for intonation. That is just loosening the screw holding the saddle in place and sliding it in the groove until the 12th fret and harmonic are the same or "close enough". Lock it and try another string.

The problems come because the saddles sit on a metal paddle and the saddle can slide side to side on the paddle. Usually the string and adjacent saddles keep things in place but if more than one string is off the bass or it gets jarred enough things can require patience. I have always been able to get intonation I can live with in positions where the saddles are touching and thus reducing side to side motion.
 

philday

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Thanks for the tips on setup and also avoiding slapping/popping - very useful.
 
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Just put a new three way in and reuse the tip (make sure whatever you put in accepts the tip.
Those tips are the coolest looking tips, imho.
Keep the old switch in case you ever sell it and the buyer wants all the "original" parts.
Definitely don't lose that switch tip, those are hard to find and pricey when you do! And those old Guilds just don't look right without them.
 
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