Why Doesn't Guild Make a Dang Dread with a 1-3/4" Nut Width

dadthrash

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Excuse me for the RANT!!!
Excuse me if this has been covered before!!!

BUT WHY IN THE HECK DOESN'T GUILD MAKE DREAD WITH A 1-3/4" NUT WIDTH AND AT LEAST 2-1/4" STRING SPACING AT THE SADDLE????????????????

I only play Dreads...Guild Dreads are SPECTACULAR!!!!!!

BUT IN EVERY OTHER MANUFACTURER (THAT MAKES A COMPARABLE QUALITY DREAD) YOU CAN GET A 1-3/4" NUT WIDTH OPTION...AND WIDER STRING SPACING AT THE SADDLE IF YOU NEED IT!!!!!

I LOVE GUILD GUITARS....BEEN PLAYING A BUNCH LATELY.....WOULD HAVE BOUGHT AT LEAST 2 BRAND NEW GUILDS....BUT....ALL MY OTHER HIGH END GUITARS HAVE THE WIDER NUT AND STRING SPACING AT THE SADDLE.....SO.........

THIS IS DRIVING ME CRAZY!!!!!!!!!

COME ON GUILD......PLEASE GIVE US SOME OPTIONS/CHOICES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

MRT
 

JimbowF212

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I think that the rerason is because Martin, who originally designed the Dread went to the standard nut width of 1 & 11/16 because of the Banjo players who also played guitar, and being more acustomed to a narrower nut width, asked for it. They just recently started making the wider nut width when they started making the authentic series which were based on specs for guitars made back in the 30's and 40's when the wider nuts were the standard on even Dreads. I am sure we all know that the first D-18s and D-28s both had ebony fretboards and the 1 & 3/4 inch nut width and this was std up until they redesigned the two models to the specs they have now and also discontinued the Herringbone trim on the D-28, changed the birdge and fingerboard to rosewood on the D-18 and discontinued the scalloped bracing system on both models. You now see the wider nuts on other models but, it is a recent development. Mostly if you want a std Series Martin with the wider nut it is a special order option at no cost. Guild has used the 1 & 11/16th inch nut width because it is the industry std but, I am sure they would be happy to make one for you on a special order and if you tell them it is a no extra cost option on a Martin they most likely would do it the same way. But, that is just MHO FWIW.
 

dadthrash

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Jim,
Thanks for the educated, calm and thoughtful response.

OK..I am calming down now...it is just so frustrating now that I have grown accustomed to the wider necks and string spacing. I want a Guild...I want more than one Guild Dread....but today the necks just felt so CRAMPED.

ARE YOU SAYING I COULD ORDER A CUSTOM BUILD GUILD?????? I DID NOT KNOW THAT. IS IT TRUE????

Thanks,
MRT
 

jazzmang

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The "Custom Shop" is closed down, but you could buy the guitar and then send it to Guild in Nashville (in the old Custom Shop workspace) and have them do the work for you... Or just grt a local luthier to do it for you.
 

Frosty

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Want a wider "nut"? Put a capo on the first fret.

I've played fabulous sounding Guild guitars with 1 5/8" nuts. After that, the 11/16 feel luxurious!
 
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+1. I thought the D50 Bluegrass Special was a 1.75, but I double check and see it's not. One of the things I like about my GAD30r is the nut width, which is so much better for finger picking.
 

Beal

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The current necks are 1.7 wide. Yes I know, that's not 1.75. Now if you rework the nut you can get a little wider spacing on the E and B strings and come close to a 1.5 string spacing which is what most 1 3/4 nuts I've played are. It will feel much better that the tight factory nut.
That's what I did and it worked OK for me. The other option is to stay with the Collings.
 

Roman

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I had a new nut made for my D-55 with wider string spacing. Not quite 1 3/4" but enough to make a big difference.
 

Scratch

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Not a dread, but the F40 body based CV-1, CV-2, CO-1 and Willy Porter models have 1 3/4" nuts. My CV-1 is a second, left over from Tacoma, and has issues... As most here are aware, Fender dumped a bunch of Tacoma-built CV/CO/CD model seconds that did not pass QC on the aftermarket as they picked up stakes to move to NH. If you were to find a 1st quality (not stamped used on the back of the headstock), CV/CO/CD model, you'll find a dream fingerpicking Guild.

Again, if you seek one, stay away from the seconds (used) on eBay going for 800 to 1K and spend the additional bucks for a 1st run for 1400 to 1800... I now have about 1400 in mine following luthier repairs... Good luck...

EDIT: There are several 1st run series CV/CO/CDs and a Willie Porter listed on Gbase: http://www.gbase.com/stores/gear/gearli ... f=1&ti0=11

Fullers Guitars is very reputable. Most of these 1 3/4" nut Guilds seem to be going on Gbase from 1500 - 2400...
 

Ross

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Frosty said:
Want a wider "nut"? Put a capo on the first fret.

I do this. Tune down a half-step, then capo up one. Makes a big difference to my stubby fingers. :D
 

Taylor Martin Guild

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I play guitar and also a bit of mandolin.
The nut and string spacing on the mandolin is very close.
I got used to it.
I guess my point is this.
If you find a Guild that you like but the neck just doesn't feel big enough, give it some playing time.
You might get used to it and even like it.
I know this won't work for everyone but it may be worth a try.
Some of my guitars have 1-11/16" necks and others have 1-3/4"
necks.
They all feel fine to me.
The thickness of the neck is more of an issue with me.
My Martin D-35 neck felt uncomfortably big to me for the first few years that I owned it.
Now it feels fine.
As others have already said, you can have a new nut made which will also help.
 

cjd-player

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I wanted wider spacing on my Tacoma D-55 but I didn't want the hassle and expense of files to cut new one myself to try out the spacing. So I purchased a preslotted Tusq nut from Graphtech.

The Tusq nut PQ-6134-00 has worked out very well. The E-to-E spacing is 1.496 inches (38.00 mm), and that feels very comfortable to me. Its about 0.070 inch wider than the original E-to-E. They have some with even wider E-to-E spacing, but I would be concerned about getting too close to the edges of the fretboad.

Getting the original nut out of the guitar was the hardest part. The nut is in a slot between the fretboard and headstock veneer, and the neck was finished after the nut was installed. So I had to score the finish along the headstock side and all around the ends with an X-Acto knife. It was glued in pretty solidly and was hard to tap out. Once it was out, I cleaned the slot and then filed and sanded the Tusq nut to fit. I had to take about 0.010 inch off of the back face and about 0.020 inch off of the bottom. Then about 0.010 inch off of the treble end and about 0.020 inch off the bass end.
 
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