Replacement Bridge for Starfire 1SC

[Horrid the Terrible]

Not wanting to hijack the electronics thread any further so I'll start this one. My Starfire 1SC has developed a rattling noise in the bridge. Probably due to loose manufacturing tolerances some saddle screws are quite literally loose as they shake, rattle and roll. (See what I did there, )
Back on point. I'm having a difficult time trying to find roller bridges, or any bridge that fit these specs. Any help would be appreciated greatly.

Fret board radius- 12.5"
String spacing 52mm
Post (center) spacing 73.5mm
Bolt width 7.6mm
Bolt length 31.5mm

Measured using digital calipers of questionable, but normally accurate quality.

 

[Horrid the Terrible]

The numbers that seem to be difficult to find are the post spacing (73.5mm) where I can find a lot of bridges that have 74mm spacing. And the 12.5" (320mm) fingerboard radius, 12" radius is easier to find.
Are these numbers guidelines or set in stone? I'm trying to avoid having major work done, plug and play would be preferred.

 

[Horrid the Terrible]

So I just re measured, and then measured again, and then few more times more. It seems that depending on the lighting, the phase of the moon in conjunction with Uranus and where it lies in the cosmos of deep space, the center of post spacing is somewhere between 73.8mm and 74mm. Considering these are plastic digital calipers, and the play of the posts in the housing, I'm taking this as a sign that 74mm post spacing will work. Now to find that 12.5" fingerboard radius........

Fricken hell.

 

[Horrid the Terrible]

After spending the last few hours pulling my hair out looking at every single damn bridge to had on the internet from multiple sources spanning the globe, I need a drink.
So I think I found a plug and play solution.
73.5 to 73.8 to 74mm (depending on the websites description) post spacing with 52mm string spacing and M8 bolts so you shouldn't have to change the bushing/insert.
Comes with inserts just in case.
Ladies and gentlemen, I give you the

TonePros TPFR Tune-o-matic Bridge with Roller Saddles.​

It even has brass rollers. Wooo!

I need a drink.

Just forget about trying to find a 12.5" inch radius saddle. It's either 12 or 14 or nothing.
Although Schaller does have a bridge with 3D adjustments so you could raise and lower each saddle to match a 12.5 radius. But that's too many moving parts for me, plus it only comes with an M5 bolt and the insert ring is 2mm smaller so you might see some unpainted wood possibly.

So I need a drink.

TonePros TPFR Tune-o-matic Bridge with Roller Saddles - StewMac

TonePros locking metric tune-o-matic bridge with roller saddles upgrade for electric guitars. Improves resonance, volume, tone, harmonic presence. Roller saddles for instant installation on imported guitars made overseas.

www.stewmac.com

 

[hansmoust]

Hello Horrid,

I would think that the easiest solution would be buying a Gotoh GE-103B-T bridge. They were used on the U.S. made Guild Bluesbirds from the second half of the '90s and early 2000s and I've never had one of those bridges make rattling noises.

Sincerely,

Hans Moust
www.guitarsgalore.nl

 

[LesB3]

You might get lucky and have one of these fit as well:

Gretsch 006-0889-000 Space Control Roller Bridge Assembly 2010s - Gold with Ebony Base https://reverb.com/item/71886200?utm_source=android-app&utm_medium=android-share&utm_campaign=listing&utm_content=71886200



I popped one on an Epiphone Les Paul as a laugh, lined up perfectly and (somewhat surprisingly) intonates fine.

Of course, some may not like the look...

Standard "import" spacing...

 

[Horrid the Terrible]

I think I'm going to chose the tone pros roller bridge as I am already having tuning issues. Granted, I still have the factory strings on, but they don't sound dead at all. Next year I should have more time to join a band and I'm hoping to make this guitar gig worthy so tuning stability is important, as well as replacing (eventually) the wiring harness and tone pots. Another thing I need to make the SC1 gig worthy is a white pick guard, preferably one with sparkles because sparkles makes everything look and sound better too. It should have come standard on the Sea Foam SC IMHO.

 

[Default]

I expect that people of probably already mentioned this, but make sure the nut slots are properly cut and lubed. This seems to be an ongoing issue with the imported Guild guitars. You could also try a graphite nut, although some people have suggested that they wear quicker than normal nuts. I'm not even close to a gigging guitar player so I wouldn't know anything about the wear issues on graphite, but those and locking tuners keep my m75 DeArmond in tune, no matter how badly I abuse it.

 

[Horrid the Terrible]

I expect that people of probably already mentioned this, but make sure the nut slots are properly cut and lubed. This seems to be an ongoing issue with the imported Guild guitars. You could also try a graphite nut, although some people have suggested that they wear quicker than normal nuts. I'm not even close to a gigging guitar player so I wouldn't know anything about the wear issues on graphite, but those and locking tuners keep my m75 DeArmond in tune, no matter how badly I abuse it.

Yes, I have heard it ping from the nut as well as the bridge when using the bigsby. I just ordered the Tone Pros roller bridge I listed above. As soon as I get it I will let you guys know if there are any differences in tone and playability which I expect both to improve but you never know. After that I will take it to a tech to handle the nut situation and check/level frets and all that other jazz.

I remember an old trick for lubing the nut was to take pencil dust (graphite) and sprinkle some in the slots. Does that still stand or are there better solutions?

 

[jp]

I've tried the trick of using pencil graphite mixed into a little petroleum jelly, and it works well. Lately, I've been using Super Lube, which I like best.

 

[Default]

Yes, still applies. You can also go to a hobby or craft store and buy tubes of powdered graphite. Look for the wooden race car kits, and it will be there.

 

[AcornHouse]

No amount of graphite will lube a poorly cut nut. And the ones I’ve seen coming from the overseas facilities are very poor indeed. The one big weakness I’ve seen. (Their fretwork is stellar, on the other hand.)

 

[GAD]

No amount of graphite will lube a poorly cut nut. And the ones I’ve seen coming from the overseas facilities are very poor indeed. The one big weakness I’ve seen. (Their fretwork is stellar, on the other hand.)

I'd guess that they're using a machine, though I'd imagine they'd advertise if that were the case. Unless it's an illegal Plek ripoff in which case they wouldn't want to advertise that.

 

[Horrid the Terrible]

Okay, just installed the Tone Pros roller bridge. A few quick notes: it's late here so I can't plug in but I noticed immediately after the first strum that it is quite a bit louder acoustically. I mean a lot louder. Also the hollow body sounds more hollow, even a touch of natural reverb. Was quite shocked actually.
The bigsby is a lot faster and more natural sounding. I really wasn't expecting any difference in tone, only playability. The difference is night and day to be honest. The stock bridge must be really cheap metal as the guitar really vibrates and is a lot louder.
So much so that I can now hear something inside the guitar buzzing when I strum hard or chicken pick. Will need to investigate but it is not coming from the bridge. Also tried to get the strings to jump out of the rollers by hard chicken picking and even some plucking. No dice, strings stay put.
I will plug in tomorrow and see how it sounds. So far I am extremely impressed by the difference in sound and playability. 10 out 10 would recommend to improve the Starfire 1.

 

[Horrid the Terrible]

This was a plug and play. I didn't need to change the inserts. I just changed the screws and bridge. It took two minutes. Also there is a lot less play between the screw and insert compared to stock which had quite a bit of play.

 

[Horrid the Terrible]

Update: sorry so late, I've been busy.
Plugged in (clean) and it does not change the fundamental tone but it does sound a tiny bit more clear, both treble and bass. It also sounds more airy, as if there is more headroom. It also accentuates the hollow body which is more pronounced when palm muting. These changes are minute, but it is noticeable. It also stays in tune now.

Side note. I never thought a laminate guitar could "open up" but my Starfire I sure has. I've noticed over the last few days that the top vibrates a lot more and sounds even louder when I play it acoustically. I live in an apartment so I can't plug in very often so I play this guitar all the time, especially late at night when even my J45 is too loud. I'm a bit heavy handed when it comes to strumming and picking and that J45 is a freaking cannon so the starfire is perfect for practicing late at night. I'm loving this guitar so far. It's so much fun to play.