New tuners

[gitarguy]

new guy and joined to specifically ask
where / how to find the "proper" tuning pegs for my
1974 D-40
I have been giving the guitar more attention of late, and relative to my others ,,not only worn...chips of the plating etc.
just look like, to me, an overhaul would make all of it better
so need some advice ...

tho I can drill a hole and have some tools...would rather not get too deep into any changes if possible ...

thanx

 

[SFIV1967]

Welcome to LTG!
It's always good showing a picture and telling if you are looking just for one or for all 6.
I assume you are talking about the Gotoh tuners?



Since you didn't say where you are located you can try Hans Moust in the Netherlands via his e-mail (see in red):

Guitars Galore - Contact

Or in the US you can check @Knash (but he might be out of stock on them):

Guild Tuners

Gibson Plastic Bridge Conversion

www.theguitarmechanic.com

Ralf

 

[gitarguy]

fla ...not only a "crazy place" but, getting hot too ! 85 degrees today

afraid of telling where I lived and show a pic lest the "guild guys" determine I am unworthy
and show up to give some guitar justice having let it get to this point

the pic looks, to me anyway, exactly the same ...and with the "guitar mechanic " page...
gettin better already

thanx !!! sorry ,,unsure about gettin pix in this note

 

[gitarguy]

in researching a little more, there seem to be some nicer options...meaning quality tuners, other than the original... and would not be at all opposed to that "upgrade" function is more my choice at this point...anyone have input on that ? maybe have already done this and know a product that will "slide" right into place

 

[gitarguy]

now, since Ken..guitar mechanic... just encouraged me to go with an upgrade ...
and suggested "Waverlys"
will ask if anyone perhaps knows for sure ,
which might fit right in w/o needing any "customizing" ?!?

thanx

 

[gitarguy]

as I ponder the choices and evaluate the help from a # of sources ...

I am now going to ask about staying w/ what I have ... the same tuners shown above ...

I saw the upgrade as easier than it actually is ...however, 1 tuner removed for measurements etc, was not difficult at all,,,
some chipped plating and the like, took me in the direction of replacement...
however, the polishing came out quite well, my concern then is Lubrication !
removed the screw from the knob, but could not remove it, by hand,,,and thought better of forcing it and creating more problems
so, been looking at some videos none show this type of arrangement ...so advice on this thought ? how to / what to use / that sort of thing..to get them moving smoothly ...thanx

 

[SFIV1967]

Closed tuners usually don't need lubrification but it can't hurt to put it on all open points you find. Normally the screw that hold the knob should be removed easily and sometimes you can move the shaft a millimeter or so to get some Tri-Flow in.

But never use any machine oil for lubrication, it will only attract dirt longterm.
Use only Tri-Flow or a similar bicycle product like Finish Line. For open tuners the dry Tri-Flow, for closed tuners the wet Tri-Flow.

Tri-Flow Pin Point Lubricator – Triflow Lubricants

Tri-Flow Lubricants, Greases & Degreasers are the preferred choice of biking enthusiasts everywhere. And our new website was designed specifically for you - so you could easily find the product you need to keep you going.

www.triflowlubricants.com

Ralf

 

[gitarguy]

thanx ...the "screw" came out w/o issue ...but, nothing else moved ? is that normal, I thought the knob would come off
and that it didn't , along w/ some older " grease deposit" has me thinking a "cleanse" could be useful
is the tri-flow enough, or should a solvent (?) be used 1st ? soak it or ?

THANX

 

[Heath]

There is no need to take the screw holding the knob on. To take off the tuner just remove the two small screws holding it on on the back of the headstock and undo the nut holding it in place on the front of the headstock.

 

[Nuuska]

Hello from Finland

If the screw holding the buttom is long enough = more than 5 turns before it come off - then you could try this: open the screw just one full turn - hold on the button - tap on the screw w hammer - then if the butoon has nudged - repeat w another turn of the screw.

Just remember to keep at least three turns of the screw in while tapping. So not to damage the thread.

After the button is off you can feed cleaning and greasing solvents in better - flushing old grease out w solvent - letting all dry out - feeding new lubricant in.

 

[SFIV1967]

- flushing old grease out w solvent - letting all dry out - feeding new lubricant in.

NO !!!!! Never do this on fully closed tuners! You can do this on really dirty old Kluson style tuners used on Stratocasters for instance where you have a "service hole", but never ever on real closed tuners like Gothos or Grovers or Schallers! Unless you are a tuner expert and know exactly what you are doing. There is no reason on fully closed tuners to wash them out.

Ralf

 

[Nuuska]

OK

I have seen a music store owner use this technique on Schaller and Grover style tuners w great success.

When you have both ends open - peg and button - you can feed stuff in and let it run out from other side.

What is wrong w this method? Besides doing it sloppy? But if you do it good?

 

[SFIV1967]

open the screw just one full turn - hold on the button - tap on the screw w hammer - then if the butoon has nudged - repeat w another turn of the screw.

And that gets the second NO from me! Sorry to say... If you tap on the screw you tap on the in that below example picture black shaft which has the wormgear that connects to the cogwheel and have the potential to damage both!
That picture shows a damaged tuner as a "normal user" cannot open it as shown. But the screw that hold the button is screwed in that black shaft, so you can try putting some lub on the screw that might help getting the screw loose. But please no force!



Ralf

 

[Nuuska]

Then there is another thing - sometimes when you mix two chemicals that both are good lubricants at their own - the mixture will be close to tar - that is why I would use cleaning solvents before new lubrication - unless I know what the old lubricant is.

 

[SFIV1967]

I have seen a music store owner use this technique on Schaller and Grover style tuners w great success.
When you have both ends open - peg and button - you can feed stuff in and let it run out from other side.
What is wrong w this method? Besides doing it sloppy? But if you do it good?

You can do it. When the button is off that black shaft slides out (you need to make sure you keep the little plastic and metal rings! And remember where they were mounted.
The problem here is that they are filled with a right amount of grease from the manufacturer and are not intended for servive, and it might be questionable if "the normal user" knows what type of grease was used and how much. Putting in any kind of grease might lead to new longer term issues. So the damage could be more than the benefit on those completely sealed tuners. Under normal operation there is no way dirt comes inside, so you can only flush out maybe exremely hardened grease. It's a different story to the Kluson style tuners on Strats.

Ralf

 

[Nuuska]

And that gets the second NO from me! Sorry to say... If you tap on the screw you tap on the in that below example picture black shaft which has the wormgear that connects to the cogwheel and have the potential to damage both!
That picture shows a damaged tuner as a "normal user" cannot open it as shown. But the screw that hold the button is screwed in that black shaft, so you can try putting some lub on the screw that might help getting the screw loose. But please no force!



Ralf

Hi

You are forgetting one essential thing - I was referring to a loose tuner - AND HOLDING IT AT THE NUT - then you tap the screw - and the shaft and everything else is free to move - because it is hanging in free air.

I agree absolutely that one must not tap the screw while the tuner body is leaning against something.

 

[SFIV1967]

Then there is another thing - sometimes when you mix two chemicals that both are good lubricants at their own - the mixture will be close to tar - that is why I would use cleaning solvents before new lubrication - unless I know what the old lubricant is.

Exactly! Hence you just use a drop of Tri-Flow just on the outside connections and don't flush out...
Ralf

 

[Nuuska]

Seems we are criss-crossing timewise

 

[Nuuska]

My tapping on the screw advise was how to get the button off before proceeding deeper.

 

[gitarguy]

some may not have seen the tuner is already off
completely separate from the guitar ,
I have no reason to think the other 5 will not be removed as easily

so...
some wet tri-flow to the exposed ...sort of exposed anyway...sections where a "tiny" seam exists...

then remove the screw and bang the hell out of it w/ my sledge hammmm...
ooops wait different forum

remove screw and a little dab will do ya, down that opening as well ....
no "solvents" or soaking the entire mechanism overnight in my favorite tequila

much thanx