New Starfire V and new member

Staffy

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Hi all,

I recently walked into a guitar shop for a couple of sets of strings and around two hours later I walked out determined to buy the Guild Starfire V that I'd just spent and hour and a half playing. I ended up selling a late 70's amp I'd had for near on 12 years to fund the purchase, something I never thought I would sell so that's saying something.

I used to own a cheaper archtop many years ago (forget the brand, might have been one of the asian built harmony's...) and always wanted to get another one at some point but after playing Yamahas, Hagstroms, Ibanez, etc I didn't find anythign quite right. I never got to try the Godin 5th Avenue guitars and if I had I may very well have bought one as I currently own two Godin solid bodies. They are great guitars.

As far as plans go I've already had it set up the way I usually like a guitar but I've noticed it's a little low as I've now lost some of the chime in the upper registers. There's some double sided tape under the bridge now too which will help but I've noticed that one or two strings seem to need a tweak already. I've never been great at adjusting guitars intonation but I reckon this guitar will make me learn.

The Bigsby is fantastic but even before I bought it I'd known I was going to look at a roller bridge in the long term. I'm having some issues getting dimensions online for string spacing for the Guild bridge though so It might take some time to figure out a suitable replacement. I've been told that Gotoh are a drop in replacement but I'm also looking at Schaller. The important thing will be finding something that bridges well but allows the strings to reset back to tune easily which I've already noticed the TOM doesn't do... and I'm not that heavy on the Bigsby.

I'm also planning on replacing the selector switch for a switchcraft item and changing out that yellow knob for a black or silver one. The switch was a little dicey from lack of use in the shop and has been fine since but you know, reliability can be bought. I switch pickups a lot so it's important this works well. I'm not in any rush though as this one is good. It's likely I'll consider having this done the next time she visits my local luthier for any other work.

I'm also considering looking into changing capacitors in the tone circuits to see if I can warm things up some more, particularly in the bridge position. I've noticed that right from the get go I've had the tone rolled back a fair bit on that pickup so it may be a benefit to put something else in that comes on "quicker" if you know what I mean. I'm open to suggestions here from anyone who's switched out different capacitors and found something which worked.

I'm not sure of the build date for this one but I'd assume it is Fender era as the card that came with it hanging off the neck has all the Fender info on there, not Cordoba. So as well as introducing myself I wanted to say a thanks for all who contribute to the forum here as it was great in helping me along with the decision to buy this guitar. It's been great to get back on an archtop but also feels much different to the Tele's and Godins I am used to playing!

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Default

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Hi, welcome to the forum! I bought one of the first SFlVS available and there has been much discussion on those bridge pickups. See the sticky in Tech Shop and then do a search and you'll find out why it sounds the way it does.
 
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Staffy

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Yeah I read early on about the lower rating on the bridge pickup and my guitar has the same ratings.

I've been searching a bit and found some bits and pieces. I'm really interested in not just different value capacitors but also different types (orange drop, etc) and what experiences others have. I'll keep searching around though and see what I find. The main thing is to take some of the spank out of that bridge pickup. Not much, just a little.
 

Staffy

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Thanks walrus!

Welcome to LTG! Have a look here to read about the serial number and other info of your guitar: http://www.letstalkguild.com/ltg/sh...first-Guild!&p=1693071&viewfull=1#post1693071

Ralf

Thanks Ralf. I did see that thread but must have missed the breakdown if the serial. That makes mine a 2013 model.

By the way, the last two times I've posted it's gone to a moderator before appearing. I take it this is something that happens early on when someone registers and is subsequently lifted? I couldn't find any mention if this on the forum.

Staffy, welcome aboard. Yes, your posts are monitored for a little while until the moderators decide you are worthy. :) Welcome aboard, and be patient.
 

Staffy

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Staffy, welcome aboard. Yes, your posts are monitored for a little while until the moderators decide you are worthy. :) Welcome aboard, and be patient.

Thanks for that. I figured as such as it's a good system for keeping out the spam.
 

Staffy

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Hey Default, this quote in your signature:

"Alternatively, you could just go the ultra-relic route with it. Basically go for a look that says the amp was on fire and they put it out using belt sanders. "

...made me think of my amp straight away. I found it in a second hand guitar store around a year ago. It was ugly and beat to hell but sounded great and I fell in love with it. I've since stripped out all the valves and replaced the power tubes with new JJ's, a NOS JAN 5751 in the gain position and a NOS Mullard 12AT7 in V3 (phase inverter). Gonna have to get another JAN for V1 position as well as it sounded great with that in there too. Currently have a JJ 12AX7 in V1.

Anyway, as I was saying I was taken with it but I had to spend a lot of time in the store on the phone trying to find images of the control plate so I could figure out what knob did what as all the lettering had faded off. I've since added some simple script with a marker to help me out...

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Quantum Strummer

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Hehe. A friend of mine has a '50s Strat that was refin'd at some point. The headstock decals were removed as well. Rather than hunt down replacement decals he just wrote "Fender" on the headstock with a Sharpie, let it dry & then lacquered it over. Whenever anyone asks about it he just says, "It's a prototype!" :)

-Dave-
 

Staffy

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Hehe. A friend of mine has a '50s Strat that was refin'd at some point. The headstock decals were removed as well. Rather than hunt down replacement decals he just wrote "Fender" on the headstock with a Sharpie, let it dry & then lacquered it over. Whenever anyone asks about it he just says, "It's a prototype!" :)

-Dave-

That's gold!
 

Walter Broes

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welcome to the forum. Roller bridges usually don't sound all that great. The two main areas to take a look at if a Bigsby pulls the guitar out of tune are 1) the nut. See that the slots don't pinch the strings anywhere, and lube. 2) the bridge base. Tape it down, screw it down, whatever, but immobilise it. It will move otherwise, and your guitar will go out of tune.
 

Staffy

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welcome to the forum. Roller bridges usually don't sound all that great. The two main areas to take a look at if a Bigsby pulls the guitar out of tune are 1) the nut. See that the slots don't pinch the strings anywhere, and lube. 2) the bridge base. Tape it down, screw it down, whatever, but immobilise it. It will move otherwise, and your guitar will go out of tune.

Walter, what is it about the sound of roller saddles that you don't like?
Regarding the other stuff, the first thing I did was drop it at my luthier's shop. He cleaned up the nut and the grooves, taped down the bridge, intonated the guitar and lubed the saddles.
There's a couple of issues which come into it. Firstly my left hand playing is very bendy leading to issues with the strings shifting over the bridge and catching. Secondly, I feel like the quality of the bridge is not that great. The saddles seem to have movement in them due to the adjusting screws having a small amount of free play. That half of a millimeter may be exacerbating things with the slightest bend or touch of the bigsby. I'll be getting a replacement bridge regardless so I figured a roller bridge would fix those issues.
 

Staffy

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I went down to one of the regular guitar shops/luthiers I deal with as he said he had a TOM roller bridge there. It was less than half the price of getting a Tonepros or something of that sort so I thought it would be a great experiment in how the guitar would behave with a roller bridge.

The bridge I bought was a straight drop in replacement for the TOM bridge and seemed tighter than the Guild one. The stock Guild one had a few saddles that felt loose whereas the roller had no play anywhere in it.

It actually behaves really well with the roller and the tuning feels much more stable now. I found before that it would hold tune but if I gave the Bigsby a flutter I'd lose the stability and the guitar would be out a touch. Now I can grab a handful of the Bigsby if I want to and the guitar will be much more stable overall.

If this works out well in the long term I may look at getting a Tonespros TOM bridge purely for the brass rollers but I won't be in any hurry as this one seems to be more than ok.

Here's a before and after:

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SFIV1967

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The new roller bridge looks like a perfect fit! Does the bridge radius work with the fretboard radius?
Ralf
 

Staffy

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The new roller bridge looks like a perfect fit! Does the bridge radius work with the fretboard radius?
Ralf

Sure thing. I took the guitar in and we checked the radius, bridge height, pole and string spacing, the whole bit. It's a bang on drop in replacement.

I actually didn't have to do much to get the bridge set up. I set the saddles in roughly the same spot as the stock one then did some fine tuning to the intonation. The new bridge needed to be dropped marginally which tells me the saddles were a tad higher but that's a good thing as far as I'm concerned as the bridge will be closer to the body and less susceptible to movement.

I've had a few more hours with it today and am pretty happy. Great improvement.

I'm sure I won't stop there. Tone caps, switchcraft switch, upgraded pots.....
 

SFIV1967

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I'm sure I won't stop there. Tone caps, switchcraft switch, upgraded pots.....
That's the nice thing with those guitars, you can fit them to what you like without having to worry to change a vintage model. It's just a bit of hard work with aquarium tubing and dental floss to take out the guts if you want to change anything inside like the mentioned things.
Ralf
 
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