eleventeen
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Hey, this is good, right next to the X-350 project thread.
I'm posting pix here of a 1956 X-175 that I had refinished..about 6-7 years ago. Let me state at the outset I am NOT in favor of refinishing guitars, and I'll be called a hypocrite because I have ANOTHER refin'ed Guild (a 1954 Guild X-150) but at some point, when they get too screwed up to play, then what is one supposed to do? I spent too much money having this done, but I'm very happy with the results.
First, I need a 25.5" scale length, so a Guild to my liking has to have a serial number under about 3000-3200. That is what we call "old". Somewhere in late to mid 1956, the scale lengths were changed to 24.75" and my hands don't like those. Nor do I like the short scale string tension. Sorry, me and my big hands. When I got this, the pickup selector switch had been removed....THROUGH THE TOP. Yes, whatever flaming genius who decided they knew about guitars and thus was qualified to remove the pu selector switch decided to do so by carving out wood around the nominal 1" hole this switch mounts in and pulled the switch out through the top. Bleh. The solution in this case was to buy a rubber "donut" from a Gibson L-5CES and mount the pu selector switch in it. It **barely** covers the enlarged hole. In the pix of the donut and switch, you can also detect some rebuilt wood. Originally, these guitars had I believe plastic disks with three screws around their perimeter to mount the switch in. Anyway, minor point in the overalll scheme of things.
Ever since I got my X-150 (in trade for a Gibson Melody Maker circa 1974) I had been impressed with the build quality of Guild archtops. That guitar is a tank, it's built far stronger than a Gibson. Pictures at a later date.
So here's what else I had done (by Kamimoto, on the South Bay peninsula in CA)
Refin the body blonde. Was originally uglyish SB, with lots and lots of body wear, binding halfway missing and halfway unglued. Seriously, there was almost more scratches and dings than finish left. A contributing factor to the blonde decision was, well, blonde. But, I could also see the back was highly flamed even though it was submerged in brownishness. I also had Kamimoto install 5-ply binding white-black-white-black-white around the top....like an L-5 or ES-355, instead of a single strip. That required him to set up a router and make the groove for the binding a little deeper. Not trivial.
Replace the harp tailpiece with a Gibson "Victory" type. Easier to change strings, and better proprtioned to the guitar, IMHO. I think this one is a repro, not a genuine Gibson part. Some chrome corrosion is showing up on the tailpiece as it is on the Grover pegs. I also used one of these bridges on the X-150, THAT one is genuine, nickel, not chrome plated.
Stain the back of the neck cherry red, like a Gibson SG. Pretty cool, IMO. And Guildish.
Grover pegs. Tune-o-matic bridge.
Reshape the neck to '64 Strat style by flattening out the point of the "V" it had. How many times have you picked up a neat old archtop and neck was a baseball bat sawn down the middle? Or a boat? I decided if I was going to pay stupid money to get all this done, I wanted to get what I wanted to get. Refret and rebind.
Finally, replace bass (neck) pickup with a split coil humbucker. I had to make a racetrack-shaped cover to hide the footprint of the original Franz pickup. This pickup is the only part of the thing that has gone undone all these years. This pickup was salvaged out of my junkbox and is a metal screamer, exactly the wrong thing to have here. One day I will get a Bartolini or something similar. This pickup, as you might imagine, somewhat overpowers the treble (bridge) pickup. The switching is set up: HB, SC bass, HB + treble. Like many jazz players, I almost never use the treble pickup.
I hope I don't offend anyone with the refin. As I said, it's not what I usually do, but the guitar was so beat up, and I wanted a blonde and I saw that flame. With the blond refin, the thicker binding, and the neck reshape, this whole operation cost probably around $1000 more than it would have had I only done the "necessary" work of refret and rebind body and neck with the stock body binding, but I also had a lot more more money to throw around at the time I did this than I do now. IMO, the "1964 Strat" neck profile is vastly superior to the original neck profile from the playing standpoint.
Let's see if some pix links will post.
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w32/ ... ILD007.jpg
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w32/ ... ILD002.jpg
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w32/ ... ILD004.jpg
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w32/ ... ILD001.jpg
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w32/ ... ILD006.jpg
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w32/ ... ILD005.jpg
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w32/ ... ILD003.jpg
Hope y'all enjoy!
Al
I'm posting pix here of a 1956 X-175 that I had refinished..about 6-7 years ago. Let me state at the outset I am NOT in favor of refinishing guitars, and I'll be called a hypocrite because I have ANOTHER refin'ed Guild (a 1954 Guild X-150) but at some point, when they get too screwed up to play, then what is one supposed to do? I spent too much money having this done, but I'm very happy with the results.
First, I need a 25.5" scale length, so a Guild to my liking has to have a serial number under about 3000-3200. That is what we call "old". Somewhere in late to mid 1956, the scale lengths were changed to 24.75" and my hands don't like those. Nor do I like the short scale string tension. Sorry, me and my big hands. When I got this, the pickup selector switch had been removed....THROUGH THE TOP. Yes, whatever flaming genius who decided they knew about guitars and thus was qualified to remove the pu selector switch decided to do so by carving out wood around the nominal 1" hole this switch mounts in and pulled the switch out through the top. Bleh. The solution in this case was to buy a rubber "donut" from a Gibson L-5CES and mount the pu selector switch in it. It **barely** covers the enlarged hole. In the pix of the donut and switch, you can also detect some rebuilt wood. Originally, these guitars had I believe plastic disks with three screws around their perimeter to mount the switch in. Anyway, minor point in the overalll scheme of things.
Ever since I got my X-150 (in trade for a Gibson Melody Maker circa 1974) I had been impressed with the build quality of Guild archtops. That guitar is a tank, it's built far stronger than a Gibson. Pictures at a later date.
So here's what else I had done (by Kamimoto, on the South Bay peninsula in CA)
Refin the body blonde. Was originally uglyish SB, with lots and lots of body wear, binding halfway missing and halfway unglued. Seriously, there was almost more scratches and dings than finish left. A contributing factor to the blonde decision was, well, blonde. But, I could also see the back was highly flamed even though it was submerged in brownishness. I also had Kamimoto install 5-ply binding white-black-white-black-white around the top....like an L-5 or ES-355, instead of a single strip. That required him to set up a router and make the groove for the binding a little deeper. Not trivial.
Replace the harp tailpiece with a Gibson "Victory" type. Easier to change strings, and better proprtioned to the guitar, IMHO. I think this one is a repro, not a genuine Gibson part. Some chrome corrosion is showing up on the tailpiece as it is on the Grover pegs. I also used one of these bridges on the X-150, THAT one is genuine, nickel, not chrome plated.
Stain the back of the neck cherry red, like a Gibson SG. Pretty cool, IMO. And Guildish.
Grover pegs. Tune-o-matic bridge.
Reshape the neck to '64 Strat style by flattening out the point of the "V" it had. How many times have you picked up a neat old archtop and neck was a baseball bat sawn down the middle? Or a boat? I decided if I was going to pay stupid money to get all this done, I wanted to get what I wanted to get. Refret and rebind.
Finally, replace bass (neck) pickup with a split coil humbucker. I had to make a racetrack-shaped cover to hide the footprint of the original Franz pickup. This pickup is the only part of the thing that has gone undone all these years. This pickup was salvaged out of my junkbox and is a metal screamer, exactly the wrong thing to have here. One day I will get a Bartolini or something similar. This pickup, as you might imagine, somewhat overpowers the treble (bridge) pickup. The switching is set up: HB, SC bass, HB + treble. Like many jazz players, I almost never use the treble pickup.
I hope I don't offend anyone with the refin. As I said, it's not what I usually do, but the guitar was so beat up, and I wanted a blonde and I saw that flame. With the blond refin, the thicker binding, and the neck reshape, this whole operation cost probably around $1000 more than it would have had I only done the "necessary" work of refret and rebind body and neck with the stock body binding, but I also had a lot more more money to throw around at the time I did this than I do now. IMO, the "1964 Strat" neck profile is vastly superior to the original neck profile from the playing standpoint.
Let's see if some pix links will post.
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w32/ ... ILD007.jpg
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w32/ ... ILD002.jpg
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w32/ ... ILD004.jpg
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w32/ ... ILD001.jpg
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w32/ ... ILD006.jpg
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w32/ ... ILD005.jpg
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w32/ ... ILD003.jpg
Hope y'all enjoy!
Al