Guild Neck Finish

[Taylor Martin Guild]

I have noticed that the neck on my 2005 Tacoma D-55 get's a grungy build-up on it when I play it.
None of my other guitars have this issue as bad as the Guild.
It rubs off with a little effort but it is always back when I play it again.
I remember reading that someone else had a similar issue on their Guild.
It seems like the finish that Guild uses is the reason.
The finish feels like it is soft.

So, is there anything that will stop this from being an ongoing issue?
The guitar is 5 years old, so the lacquer should be stable by now.

I never had this issue with my 1991 JF-30-12.
I don't remember if it was an issue with my Westerly JF-55.
I didn't own it very long though.

 

[Sefton419]

You know, I have a Tacoma D55 as well that I just sent in to the Nashville Custom shop due to brittle lacquer all over the body and on the neck near the fretboard. I love the way the Guild sounds, but I have to say I am a bit disappointed. All this is to say is that I would not be surprised if you have a finish problem either, unfortunately. I am hoping Nashville will re-lacquer the whole guitar as they should, but the store I bought it from is not that optimistic.

 

[adorshki]

There's been debate over what was used in Tacoma. It was stated that the polyurethane finishing was announced in their literature right about that time. I seem to remember it being referred to as heat cured. Maybe yours is poly that didn't get cured properly? There's tests for finishes. Nail polish remover will dissolve nitro lacquer but not poly for example. A good suggestion was to try some on an inconspicous spot like inside the trussrod slot, or better yet, even see if you can get a chip of the finish like from the same place to drop in the solvent. At least then you'd know what you actually had as a basis for further diagnosis.

 

[jazzmang]

There's been debate over what was used in Tacoma. It was stated that the polyurethane finishing was announced in their literature right about that time. I seem to remember it being referred to as heat cured. Maybe yours is poly that didn't get cured properly? There's tests for finishes. Nail polish remover will dissolve nitro lacquer but not poly for example. A good suggestion was to try some on an inconspicous spot like inside the trussrod slot, or better yet, even see if you can get a chip of the finish like from the same place to drop in the solvent. At least then you'd know what you actually had as a basis for further diagnosis.

My conversation with Dave G. from Guild covered this topic. He said that they used nitro for Guilds in Tacoma. The Tacoma branded guitars did not.

What fixed this issue for me? I used a product (not endorsing it or anything) called Guitar Scratch Remover. I know, the name sounds pretty lame, but the short story is that the stuff works. They send you 2 'tubs' of cleaner and a cloth. Use the blue stuff (its the stronger of the two) for a few good coats and it should eliminate that issue for you, as it did for me on my Tacoma D-55 I had.

 

[adorshki]

There's been debate over what was used in Tacoma. It was stated that the polyurethane finishing was announced in their literature right about that time. I seem to remember it being referred to as heat cured. Maybe yours is poly that didn't get cured properly? There's tests for finishes. Nail polish remover will dissolve nitro lacquer but not poly for example. A good suggestion was to try some on an inconspicous spot like inside the trussrod slot, or better yet, even see if you can get a chip of the finish like from the same place to drop in the solvent. At least then you'd know what you actually had as a basis for further diagnosis.

My conversation with Dave G. from Guild covered this topic. He said that they used nitro for Guilds in Tacoma. The Tacoma branded guitars did not.

What fixed this issue for me? I used a product (not endorsing it or anything) called Guitar Scratch Remover. I know, the name sounds pretty lame, but the short story is that the stuff works. They send you 2 'tubs' of cleaner and a cloth. Use the blue stuff (its the stronger of the two) for a few good coats and it should eliminate that issue for you, as it did for me on my Tacoma D-55 I had.

Might try some of that for my D25 which has some SERIOUS finish wear! Is this a great place or what? History and a maintenance tip in one easy post!

 

[Bobby McGee]

I used a product (not endorsing it or anything) called Guitar Scratch Remover

Ditto for me on a few grungy necks. This product is invaluable for polishing and fixing 'grunge' issues on the back of necks. I mostly use the Blue stuff (rubbing compound) and rarely use the Red (polish).

It also works great on everything else shiny. Removes pickguard and surrounding area scratches nicely.

http://www.guitarscratchremover.com/

Bobby.

 

[Taylor Martin Guild]

There's been debate over what was used in Tacoma. It was stated that the polyurethane finishing was announced in their literature right about that time. I seem to remember it being referred to as heat cured. Maybe yours is poly that didn't get cured properly? There's tests for finishes. Nail polish remover will dissolve nitro lacquer but not poly for example. A good suggestion was to try some on an inconspicous spot like inside the trussrod slot, or better yet, even see if you can get a chip of the finish like from the same place to drop in the solvent. At least then you'd know what you actually had as a basis for further diagnosis.

My conversation with Dave G. from Guild covered this topic. He said that they used nitro for Guilds in Tacoma. The Tacoma branded guitars did not.

What fixed this issue for me? I used a product (not endorsing it or anything) called Guitar Scratch Remover. I know, the name sounds pretty lame, but the short story is that the stuff works. They send you 2 'tubs' of cleaner and a cloth. Use the blue stuff (its the stronger of the two) for a few good coats and it should eliminate that issue for you, as it did for me on my Tacoma D-55 I had.

Where do you buy it?
Would regular auto rubbing compound work?
Thanks,
TMG.

 

[chazmo]

TMG, found their website with Google... http://guitarscratchremover.com/ Looks like direct order online.

 

[pickoid]

I have always heard that naphtha (lighter fluid) was good for this and would not adversely affect nitro finish. Can't say I've ever really had this problem, though.

 

[Taylor Martin Guild]

I have usee naptha and while it cleans the neck very well, the problem comes back, as soon as I play the guitar again.
It feels like the finish gets soft as I play.
Hard to explain but feels funny.
The D-55 is the only guitar that this happens to.

 

[geoguy]

I've heard of this on other manufacturer's guitars, too . . . not a uniquely Guild issue. I can't help but think that the best permanent solution is to re-finish the neck.

 

[jazzmang]

...I can't help but think that the best permanent solution is to re-finish the neck.

Nah, it happens depending on the player and their chemistry. Some people's hands turn nitro soft in minutes!

BTW, even my New Hartford Guilds (fresh from the factory) did this for me. I'm Mr. Acid Hands.

 

[Taylor Martin Guild]

I remember reading that the problem will go away over time.
The finish hardens and that soft finish feeling stops.
I hope it does but I thought that it would have happened by now.
The guitar is 5 years old.

Did I mention that other than this very small issue, I love this guitar!

 

[curt]

The lacquer is breaking down from moisture or hand funk. You need to clean it with a light soap and water followed by 2500P grit paper then buff it. Lacquer never really cures so it's important to keep it clean and dry. After it's buffed it wouldn't hurt to keep it out of the case for a week or so. Never put wax on a lacquer guitar!

 

[jazzmang]

I remember reading that the problem will go away over time.
The finish hardens and that soft finish feeling stops.
I hope it does but I thought that it would have happened by now.
The guitar is 5 years old.

Did I mention that other than this very small issue, I love this guitar!

Yeah I don't know. One of my DV-72s still gets a semi-sticky neck every time I play it. Washing my hands with soap and water beforehand (and drying them completely, of course) makes the finish stickiness much less likely.

 

[Taylor Martin Guild]

The lacquer is breaking down from moisture or hand funk. You need to clean it with a light soap and water followed by 2500P grit paper then buff it. Lacquer never really cures so it's important to keep it clean and dry. After it's buffed it wouldn't hurt to keep it out of the case for a week or so. Never put wax on a lacquer guitar!

You say to never use wax on a lacquered guitar.
Others here have said to use a rubbing compound/wax treatment to fix the problem.

Now I don't know who is right.

I do know that you never use any product that contains
silicone though.
Many waxes do have silicone in them, so not using wax at all would be a good precaution.
I do use wax though. I just make sure that it doesn't contain silicone.

 

[chazmo]

Yeah, curt, I'd like some elaboration of that too. What's your concern about wax? I've always used a guitar polish product myself, but I thought pure carnauba wax was just fine for use on guitars.

 

[taabru45]

I've heard carnuba is ok....even been told that carnuba ski wax is pure and a cheap way to go.. :? Steffan

 

[curt]

Sorry that I wasn't more clear with my answer. Many wax products hide the fact that they contain silicone which will trap solvents on new lacquer guitars. I use 3M Final Glaze which is a really nice product for guitars.