F20 needs a neck reset - or no?

[elasticman]

I'm hoping someone can shed some insight. It's been brought to my attention that my '68 F20 may need a neck reset due to the low saddle as seen in these photos.

In the first one, you can see that the high E string is not touching the bridge. There's some room there.

in this next pic, you can see the angle of the saddle straight-on (some had thought it was parallel to the bridge).

What do you think? Neck reset needed? I like the action and it sounds good, but if a reset is in her near future I may move on...

bridge pins are chewed up too, so I want to replace them. Not sure if you need specific ones for an old Guild?

 

[Ian]

You already own the guitar, yes ? If so, and you like the guitar, why move on. A neck reset isnt the end of the world, and if you sold it then you would have to calculate it into the selling price anyway (meaning that whoever might buy the guitar would offer you less as they are counting in the cost of a neck reset). If you dont already own the guitar then it's a different story....

Cheers, Ian

 

[GardMan]

Your saddle IS getting pretty low... but if the action is good and the sound is good, I wouldn't rush into selling or resetting. You may be able to get a little more break angle on your treble strings by ramping the pin holes just a little... as described here on frets.com.

I do think you need some new pins. Unfortunately, my favorite pin make passed away last year... but many folks praise Bob Colosi's pins, or you could find plastic, bone, or ebony pins at StewMac or many dealers. My seven Guilds had 4 different pin sizes... so there's really no telling what you might need. Best bet would be to measure what you have with a digital caliper...

I would also have a competent tech/luthier look at the crack in your bridge (and inside at the bridgeplate). If it's not too bad, and the plate inside is still intact, it might be fairly straightforward to have it glued (a good tech can make it nearly invisible).

Good luck,
Dave

 

[taabru45]

You're OK, good advice above, you can slot the holes to increase the angle, but its pretty good, I wouldn't worry about it....Just stay away from 'heavy' strings....Steffan

 

[GuildFS4612CE]

Was that saddle taken off of another guitar?

It almost looks like it came off of a 12-string.

Perhaps while getting the split bridge repaired or replaced, you might want to consider a new compensated saddle fitted specifically for that guitar.

Your tech can check the neck angle to answer your question.

Actually, it also looks like that bridge might have been replaced, or at least reset/reglued at one time as well.

Was this a conversion to a lefty?

 

[coastie99]

Second Gardman's opinion regarding pins, and I can confirm that Bob Colosi is great to deal with. You may well discover that you need a set of custom-sized pins. I do for my '63 F-20; the pin-holes are well and truly worn.

Jane, that does indeed look like a 12 string saddle; the incriminating marks are clearly visible.

Best of luck Elasticman, the F-20 is one great little guitar.

 

[taabru45]

Jane, that does indeed look like a 12 string saddle; the incriminating marks are clearly visible.

Maybe it once belonged to Joe.... :wink: :lol: :lol: Steffan

 

[jgmaute]

As long as it's working for you I wouldn't think about moving on. If you've got a good luthier nearby have it checked out. When I needed a neck reset on my 1965 M20 Randy Wood was able to do a heat reset with did the trick and didn't cost an arm and a leg. Later, when I couldn't get comfortable playing it and did move on it was in perfect shape (right guitardude?). So play it and smile but do right by it and have it checked out. joan

 

[elasticman]

another factor with this F20

a 12-string bridge? Wow, I never even thought that but the photo does show faint indentations/markings that support that.

I have a chance to buy an early 70s F20 and have it converted, and sell this '68. In the end I would be about even. I can also buy an early 80's burst with an arch back

What would you all do? I feel a poll coming on...

 

[GardMan]

It does look like that saddle was once used for a 12-string... but it has clearly been recut to fit the bridge (in the older "thru-saddle" style). Given the visible state of the pins and pinholes... I worry about what the bridgeplate inside might look like. But, I am certainly not one to toss an old Guild just cause she need a little TLC...

 

[taabru45]

There is a self stick brass plate availible for 6 strings, i heard that a couple of years ago...Steffan

 

[GardMan]

There is a self stick brass plate availible for 6 strings, i heard that a couple of years ago...Steffan

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_ta ... 3&xsr=1757

 

[GuildFS4612CE]

Since cost/conversion to lefty are not the issues...

I would recommend choosing whichever guitar sounds the best to your ears and feels the best to your hands...and put whatever work is needed into it...all older guitars need work...to make it the best it can be.

Good luck.

 

[Ian]

As long as it's working for you I wouldn't think about moving on. If you've got a good luthier nearby have it checked out. When I needed a neck reset on my 1965 M20 Randy Wood was able to do a heat reset with did the trick and didn't cost an arm and a leg. Later, when I couldn't get comfortable playing it and did move on it was in perfect shape (right guitardude?). So play it and smile but do right by it and have it checked out. joan

Perfect as perfect can be. Only catch is that it is so nice to play and has such a lovely skinny neck that my electric playing son keeps borrowing it and retuning it to drop D, which creates all sorts of issues for me when I pick it off the guitar rack afterwards and strum a few chords....

 

[elasticman]

took the Guild to the tech today. What a great experience! Older guy, lives across town from me. Hangs a small plywood sign outside his modest home that says simply "Guitar Repair". I knocked on the door and he invited me in for coffee. Sat in the kitchen for a while while he told me about his grandchildren and introduced me to his 2 cats.

On to the Guild! He takes out a straight edge and lines it up. Plenty of saddle left. Break angle looks good. Neck is great, no re-set needed! Looks inside with a mirror and pronounces the bridge sound!

Pulls out the chewed up old bridge pins. Goes down to his basement and grabs a set of brand new Martin bridge pins and and installs them for me. Says I'll probably notice a tonal improvement. I do. Offers to remove those and put the old ones back so I can compare, but I graciously tell him don't bother - I know she sounds better.

Gives me lots of great advice, shows me how to clean the old worm tuners. Shows me how to clean the frets. We're talking old school Yankee here, a guy who knows the value of a dollar and assumes I would like the option of dooing it myself (I don't )

This guy spent a good hour with me, didn't rus
h me and could have talked guitars all afternoon. Finally I had to get home to the family, and I asked him what I owed him. The tab - 12 bucks! That's right. I bet those bridge pins alone cost more than that!

Coffee - free.
Cost of repair - 12 bucks.
Quality experience with a great guitar tech - priceless.

Oh, and here are the new bridge pins:

 

[capnjuan]

Congratulations e-man! I'm no physicist but I couldn't understand how that high E was going to work without firm contact with the bridge but stranger things have happened. BluesyPicky and I share a works-at-home repairman ... sweet guy, capable, and reasonable rates.

 

[poser]

Gives me lots of great advice, shows me how to clean the old worm tuners. Shows me how to clean the frets. We're talking old school Yankee here, a guy who knows the value of a dollar and assumes I would like the option of doing it myself (I don't )

Wow. Great news about the guitar and the repair man. Too bad every town doesn't have a guitar guy like that. Think you could clone him and send him to Ohio? :lol:

 

[jgmaute]

Great news, great find with the repair guy. So...how about some full pictures of your guitar? joan