Steve Weeks
Junior Member
- Joined
- May 1, 2024
- Messages
- 27
- Reaction score
- 45
- Guild Total
- 1
As mentioned above, they were using up old Hoboken labels for 2-3 years after the move from Hoboken to Westerly (the move happened gradually in later 1967 and 1968) I have 4 Westerly built Guilds from 1969-1970 with Hoboken labels. I even have a '71 D35 that has a Hoboken label but that seems to be an oddball, Guild was mostly using a transition label by then. I'm sure your D35 is an awesome guitar. I love Guilds from that period. That's so cool you are the original owner and that you have kept it all these years.So... were they using up old labels, or was my D35 sitting around for a couple years before I got my hands on it?
I'll have to weigh it! I've never complained about the weight, and it has never occurred to me to check. Stay tuned (so to speak!).Even if it was made in Westerly, as is a fact that Westerly was using Hoboken inventory around this time, for sure, TRCs, labels, wood etc...I still think it is super cool you got a Hoboken label. My TRC is from Hoboken, even though my 1971 D25 BR was made in Westerly. I bet your D35 is quite light too.
Well, that's interesting! I have the original receipt for this guitar dated August 30, 1969.Steve, that guitar was built in Westerly in 1970.
What the others said is correct that Hoboken labels were used in Westerly for a while during the transition.
Wow, that note is really cool.Well, that's interesting! I have the original receipt for this guitar dated August 30, 1969.
Also, I must have had a question about string tension, because I have a note from "Guild" (signed as such) dated October 3, 1969, when I'd had the instrument for about a month. I'm at peace with the notion that it might not have been made in Hoboken.
I like how it's signed "Sincerly, Guild". Guild is a real person!Wow, that note is really cool.
I stand corrected, Steve!!!!! Your note from Guild proves that it's clearly not a 1970 build! Also, knowing that it had to be before 1970, I'm no longer certain about Westerly vs. Hoboken. I was using charts and information from the bible for OJ1754 to date your it.Well, that's interesting! I have the original receipt for this guitar dated August 30, 1969.
Also, I must have had a question about string tension, because I have a note from "Guild" (signed as such) dated October 3, 1969, when I'd had the instrument for about a month. I'm at peace with the notion that it might not have been made in Hoboken.
I've scrutinized the back of the headstock, and all I can see is that one of the tuner screws has been replaced with a slot-head! When that happened I have no idea. But I don't see any stamping. I just have the label inside the body.Do you have a picture of the serial stamp on the back of the headstock, Steve.
Plus, written in cursive! Who does THAT anymore? LoLI like how it's signed "Sincerly, Guild". Guild is a real person!
There are entire generations of people that would think it's Sanscrit.Plus, written in cursive! Who does THAT anymore? LoL
Have a glance HERE.Could you indulge us some nice front and back pics of your D35? We love looking at guitars here : )
Here are all the traces I have of the original purpose. I bought the guitar from my teacher, Herb Roth. Herb must have had some sort of relationship with several guitar manufacturers, as I also bought a new Gretsch "Tennessean" from him. I traded in a nylon-string Guild Mark I when I bought the D35. I don't remember why one receipt is dated 8/29 and the other 8/30. I also don't know why he used quotation marks for "Guild" on the 8/29 receipt... maybe it's not a real Guild! (/s).@Steve Weeks , do you think it'd be possible for you to post the original receipt? Does the receipt list details about the guitar (i.e., model name, serial number)?
A little, to a lot! Depending on who does it. It sounds like, at a place you brought it to. They'd do whatever is necessary to make it as playable as possible - or as easy to play, as can be made to do by making some routine adjustments to the instrument. In order to get the action at a comfortable playing height for you, and the kind of music you like to play. That is true, that it can be technically in the range of qualifying for a neck reset. But not necessary for you, the player, who does (if they don't, that is) find it troubling, or too concerning to play (say for instance: from frets 10-15). You may be able to play it like it is for a while, until the geometry shifts enough to the point where it is going to be inevitable. Keep in mind, that is it somewhat of an invasive, procedure. And you can sometimes incur a change in tone once the instrument is returned to you. As it kind of recovers from the shock of the trauma, or treatment, so to speak. But eventually, over time, from what I understand it will begin to come back (the sound). How much, or how close, I don't honestly know? Good luck, & best wishes! Tremendous resources you've managed to maintain even after all these years! And an impressive instrument, to boot--I'd bet~*> peaceWhat does "setting up" involve? Thanks!