F-40 sound board/top radius?

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Hi folks, does anyone have the spec for a 2016 F-40 top radius please? I think I may have a bit of a belly! Thanks in advance.
 

geoguy

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Welcome to LTG, Witty. :applouse:

I don't know the answer to your question, but perhaps you could get an answer from Guild in Oxnard, CA.

It should be fairly subtle, though, and tough to measure. Post links to some photos (if you can) that show what is concerning you, and I'm sure that will stimulate some discussion here.
 
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Thanks, I will try them. The top is bellying up, I think, but wanted to double check before considering a course of action (no pun intended!). I think it maybe the cause of a poor top E sound from the piezo output. My first Guild and a bit disappointing as the rest sound
amazing.
 

adorshki

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Thanks, I will try them. The top is bellying up, I think, but wanted to double check before considering a course of action (no pun intended!). I think it maybe the cause of a poor top E sound from the piezo output. My first Guild and a bit disappointing as the rest sound
amazing.
Hi Witty, welcome aboard!
Don't know how well versed you are in the fine points of stuff like this so forgive me if I sound patronizing.
Actually since you're asking about top radius you obviously at least know a little more than the average joe.
First, is it strung with factory spec gauge?
Important for adequate pressure on transducer, if too light, but in that case one wouldn't expect bellying in a 3-year old guitar (aside: Is it really a 2016? Didn't remember 'em being introduced that long ago, thought it was more like 2018, which brings up the question, is it an Oxnard, or a New Hartford, and are you sure about the year?)
By bellying I assume you mean a dip between bridge and soundhole, which could make saddle lean forward enough to affect piezo response, but still would be kind of surprised if it was severe enough to cause a problem in such a young instrument from Oxnard OR New Hartford.
Sometimes folks refer to the typical Guild "hump" behind the bridge as bellying when it's just a characteristic of their build technique, but I don't know if that's still occurring in Oxnard's build style, can't recall seeing any reference to it after New Hartford builds.
In past piezo issues have been most commonly attributed to uneven slot depth and/or improper centering (end-to-end) although I understand the more modern UST's are much more tolerant of that issue.
Another potential is bone saddle: they can have invisible voids in 'em which create "dead spots".
Similar principle involved in the rule that the saddle must be flat and level and make full contact with bottom of saddle slot (which must also be perfectly flat and level), and I've got a suspicion that'll turn out to be actual culprit.
If you're already aware of all that stuff and have ruled it out, then you can just disregard all, and you're still welcome aboard!
:biggrin-new:
I'm kind of curious for your feedback myself, just to learn a bit more about Oxnard builds, assuming it is an Oxnard.
Let us know?
 
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kostask

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if the Saddle slot is properly cut, it will be flat, not radiused like the top is, so the top radius shouldn't make a difference. the bottom of the saddle shouls also be flat. if both are flat, your UST transducer should work properly. if it doesn"t, you have a non-flat surface on the saddle bottom, saddle slot, ot the saddle material is non-uniform (voids in a bone saddle) density, as posted above.

Sometimes saddle slots are routed to foolow the countour of the top of the bridge (which is curved most of the time (happens a lot when bridges are replaced). or saddles are not perfectly flat (because somebody sanded the saddle bottom freehand when lowering the saddle).
 

D30Man

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Welcome Witty! I would definitely get with Oxnard if Oxnard built.. If New Fartford you might take it a luthier in your area for an informed opinion..
 

kostask

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in General,

tops are built with around a 20-24 foot radius. Backs have a 30 foot radius or in that area. Early 1900s guitars were built with radii as small as 12 foot.
 
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Wow! What a great response. Thanks everyone. I am pushed for time right now, but will be taking a look at all suggestions asap! I will let you all know my findings in due course, thanks again!
 

adorshki

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Wow! What a great response. Thanks everyone. I am pushed for time right now, but will be taking a look at all suggestions asap! I will let you all know my findings in due course, thanks again!

Realizing you may still be be pushed for time just wanted to mention that I forgot to explain the reason I questioned which factory is was built at:
In 2016 only Oxnard was up and running, but as mentioned I don't think they'd even built their version of the F40 yet.
And their version is a completely different animal than the original F40 size; it's actually the same as the F50 (now F55), 17" lower bout width, whereas all previous versions of F40 were 16" lower bout width.
So this might mean a different radius than the earlier F40s, in case that turns out to be relevant.
 
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