Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 17 of 17

Thread: Building (M20) Bridges

  1. #11
    Senior Member adorshki's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sillycon Valley CA
    Posts
    27,681
    Quote Originally Posted by evenkeel View Post
    The saddle should not need to be glued. I have guitars with both drop in and thru saddles. None of them are glued. The downward force of the strings, plus a good snug fit is all that is needed.
    Think you were answering this part of my post?
    Quote Originally Posted by adorshki View Post
    Lowering saddle is a good stop-gap, I think, but this may be one of those scenarios where the glue bond simply won't stand up to the torque of the saddle in its slot.
    I see it was poorly worded, didn't mean to imply the saddle was glued (you're absolutely right, should only need to be held in place by string pressure and snug fit);
    I meant the glue bond of the repair of the bridge.
    (And used "torque" twice too, when re-writing and editing too quickly, LOL!)
    I thought the problem was that the front side of the slot had a crack in it caused by the stress of saddle pushing forward, due to Jedzep's first sentence in the OP:
    "The front wall of the saddle slot on my already once repaired/glued bridge is acting up, leaning again from string break angle pressure forward"
    And was trying to address the fact that even though glue bonds are supposed to be even stronger than the original wood, I thought the torque of the saddle against the "front wall" might be enough overcome that usual rule, in this case.
    Last edited by adorshki; 01-14-2020 at 04:27 PM.
    Al
    "Time May Change the Technique of Music But Never Its Mission " - Rachmaninoff
    My 1st Guild: '96 Westerly D25NT "Hally" (10-31-96 stamped on heelblock)
    #2: '01 Westerly F65ce "Blondie"
    #3: '03 Corona D40e Richie Havens "Richie"
    All bought new!

  2. #12
    Senior Member jedzep's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Cooperstown
    Posts
    357
    And that's the way it is, Al. The string slot worn toward the saddle ain't helping either.

    You bring the car in for an oil change and you come away with a valve job. She's leaning again.

    Over the holidays I think my boy tuned it to standard pitch, as I might have mentioned. That didn't help with the 13s on.


    Last edited by jedzep; 01-14-2020 at 02:31 AM.
    I try to think but nuthin' happens.

    '63 F30
    '57 M20
    '64 M65
    '62 Martin 00018
    '92 Martin D-16H
    '96 Martin 000-15S 12 fret
    '31 Gibson L0 12 fret
    '35 Gibson L00
    '49 Gibson J50

  3. #13
    Senior Member adorshki's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sillycon Valley CA
    Posts
    27,681
    Quote Originally Posted by jedzep View Post
    And that's the way it is, Al. The string slot worn toward the saddle ain't helping either.

    You bring the car in for an oil change and you come away with a valve job. She's leaning again.

    Over the holidays I think my boy tuned it to standard pitch, as I might have mentioned. That didn't help with the 13s on.
    Right, saw that, suspect that was the stress that broke the bridge's back, so to speak.
    Certainly couldn't-a helped, and at least not catastrophic.
    Al
    "Time May Change the Technique of Music But Never Its Mission " - Rachmaninoff
    My 1st Guild: '96 Westerly D25NT "Hally" (10-31-96 stamped on heelblock)
    #2: '01 Westerly F65ce "Blondie"
    #3: '03 Corona D40e Richie Havens "Richie"
    All bought new!

  4. #14
    Senior Member gjmalcyon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Gloucester County, NJ
    Posts
    2,175
    If the current bridge height is OK, you could enlarge the existing saddle slot, glue in a piece of rosewood and after it dries, cut a new saddle slot. My F-47 (purchased from mikemo6string) had that done. The intonation was off just enough that Mike had his luthier fill the existing saddle slot and cut a new one. It is almost invisible - if I did not point it out you would not see it.
    '69 Yamaha FG-110 (folks)
    '08 DV-6 (8th Street)
    '72 F-212XL (ex-idealassets - a nephew's)
    '83 D-35 (ex-Walking Man, Qvart) FOR SALE
    '93 JF4-12 (ex-grumpyguybill)
    '07 F-47R (ex-mikemo6string)
    '74 G-37 (ex-Gardman, Neal) FOR SALE
    '94 D-6 FOR SALE
    '61 F-40B (ex-Walking Man)
    GAD F-130R (ex-Killdeer43, Jeffcoop,) FOR SALE
    GAD-30 (ex-Killdeer43, Geoguy - with a different nephew)
    GAD D125-12 (ex-BoneDigger) FOR SALE
    NS SFIV-ST (ex-BoneDigger)
    '99 DeArmond M-75
    '13 Orpheum 14-Fret RW Dreadnought

  5. #15
    Senior Member adorshki's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sillycon Valley CA
    Posts
    27,681
    Quote Originally Posted by gjmalcyon View Post
    If the current bridge height is OK, you could enlarge the existing saddle slot, glue in a piece of rosewood and after it dries, cut a new saddle slot. My F-47 (purchased from mikemo6string) had that done. The intonation was off just enough that Mike had his luthier fill the existing saddle slot and cut a new one. It is almost invisible - if I did not point it out you would not see it.
    Ooooh, I LIKE that!
    Al
    "Time May Change the Technique of Music But Never Its Mission " - Rachmaninoff
    My 1st Guild: '96 Westerly D25NT "Hally" (10-31-96 stamped on heelblock)
    #2: '01 Westerly F65ce "Blondie"
    #3: '03 Corona D40e Richie Havens "Richie"
    All bought new!

  6. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by gjmalcyon View Post
    If the current bridge height is OK, you could enlarge the existing saddle slot, glue in a piece of rosewood and after it dries, cut a new saddle slot. My F-47 (purchased from mikemo6string) had that done. The intonation was off just enough that Mike had his luthier fill the existing saddle slot and cut a new one. It is almost invisible - if I did not point it out you would not see it.
    That's a very good observation/suggestion. I like that idea a lot.

    Adorshki, I see that I did not interpret your comment re: gluing correctly. You're right a re-glued bridge may well not have enough strength or structure. That makes the above suggestion from GJmalcyon more valid. Plus. you could then deepen the slot so there is more saddle below the bridge slot which should help.

  7. #17
    Senior Member adorshki's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sillycon Valley CA
    Posts
    27,681
    Quote Originally Posted by evenkeel View Post
    That's a very good observation/suggestion. I like that idea a lot.

    Adorshki, I see that I did not interpret your comment re: gluing correctly. .
    NO worries, there was also the possibility I'd misinterpreted jedzep's original explanation, myself.
    Al
    "Time May Change the Technique of Music But Never Its Mission " - Rachmaninoff
    My 1st Guild: '96 Westerly D25NT "Hally" (10-31-96 stamped on heelblock)
    #2: '01 Westerly F65ce "Blondie"
    #3: '03 Corona D40e Richie Havens "Richie"
    All bought new!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •