New to Guild

khan

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Hello all! New here and new to Guild. Just picked up this little gem. F15 CEM circa '94. And of course, there would be a wonderful Guild forum for guidance.

Here's what I know about this guitar so far
.

I'm new to acoustics with electronics. I'm still looking for where the battery goes.

Is there a good source for the basics (like the battery) so, I'm not bugging you all with super basic questions for the billionth time? I've done some searching around but, am just getting started in this area.
Thanks!
guild-guitar.jpg
 

Nuuska

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Hello from North - and welcome on board.

Congrats on your new tool - i would remove strings and have a look inside.

Cheers
 

Rich Cohen

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Hello all! New here and new to Guild. Just picked up this little gem. F15 CEM circa '94. And of course, there would be a wonderful Guild forum for guidance.

Here's what I know about this guitar so far
.

I'm new to acoustics with electronics. I'm still looking for where the battery goes.

Is there a good source for the basics (like the battery) so, I'm not bugging you all with super basic questions for the billionth time? I've done some searching around but, am just getting started in this area.
Thanks!
guild-guitar.jpg

Since there's a pre-amp inside, I would expect a holder for a 9-volt battery. Enjoy!
 

khan

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Welcome to LTG! Ah, the one from Guitar Center! Nice one!
"CE" for cutaway electric, "M" for mahogany I'd say.
Solid mahogany top, laminated mahogany sides and laminated arched mahogany back.
Electronics should be Fishmann AGP-2, you see the battery info in the manual: https://guildguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/fishman_agp2_abgp.pdf

Ralf

They'd had it for so long, I was able to get to to come down to $599. I spotted it last August but, couldn't and wouldn't go near the $799 they had it posted at. When I went up to play it though, it felt right and sounded beautiful. The Mahogany gives it a nice warm sound. The pickup system sounds fantastic as well. When I first approached GC, they weren't willing to budge on price. After I saw the price drop early November, I knew I had some leverage as GC doesn't like to haggle much on used gear. I let it sit until this past weekend, figuring fate would determine how this goes. I went in this and pressed 'em hard. I basically made it sound like I was willing to unburden them of this non-selling used guitar. After some hemming and hawing, they saw I was ready to walk away (and I was). The supposed District Manager was there working the deal. He finally told the sales rep to let me have it +$50. That was good enough for me.
I'm super happy with the guitar, the sound, the feel and the price I paid for it. Not being familiar with acoustic guitars and knowing that a high end Martin or Gibson was out of the question for my budget and level of committement, this guitar felt and sounded fantastic. I'm so happy our paths crossed.
 

khan

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khan

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Thanks for all of your greetings and helpful replies. I really appreciate that folks in most of these musical communities are so welcoming and helpful. I hope I gain enough knowledge to be able to pass it on from time to time.

Is there a source for parts? This is missing the truss-rod access cover. I did some searching but, seemed most parts were for electric Guilds. This has a one screw attachment point. At least, I didn't see holes for any other screws. Just about everything I came across had two or three holes. I suppose I could just screw in at the top and leave the rest of the cover held in place by the nut.
 

adorshki

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Welcome to LTG! Ah, the one from Guitar Center! Nice one!
"CE" for cutaway electric, "M" for mahogany I'd say.
Solid mahogany top, laminated mahogany sides and laminated arched mahogany back.
For clarification for our new member:
The actual model number is "F15ce."
Ralf was explaining that model was all-'hog, what the "CE" stood for, and the "M" indicates the top color and is where Guild normally put a color designation.
That looks like an unstained top (First F15ce I've ever seen that way, I think!); I think "M" was used because "Natural" was normally used on unstained spruce tops no matter what color the body was, but it was used to denote a Mahogany (dark) colored finish in other models.
Thanks for all of your greetings and helpful replies. I really appreciate that folks in most of these musical communities are so welcoming and helpful. I hope I gain enough knowledge to be able to pass it on from time to time.
Welcome aboard! I didn't catch you were a brand new member in your post over in "Tech"
This has a one screw attachment point. At least, I didn't see holes for any other screws. Just about everything I came across had two or three holes. I suppose I could just screw in at the top and leave the rest of the cover held in place by the nut.
OK that's an anomaly, it should just use the regular old 2-screw black plastic cover.
s-l640.jpg

https://www.ebay.com/i/111693742938...MI8-vu4py75gIVFLvsCh1dKgkkEAQYASABEgJQSPD_BwE
(and I think that's overpriced at $7.49, could probably do better even with cost of mailing)
While you could do what you say, I suspect maybe somebody removed some wood around the truss rod cavity and took the screw hole with it?
A close-up of the truss rod access cavity would be handy, because from here it looks as though maybe the truss channel itself may not have been deep enough, making the adjusting nut itself come out too close to the nut, necessitating the too-long access cavity?
But Guild would not normally let something like that out the door or even let the neck get mounted onto an instrument.
Can't blow up your pic enough to be sure either, but could it be somebody put a washer on the end of the truss rod to increase adjustability and that's why the rod cavity is enlarged?
Leaving the TRC loose against the nut could create a buzzing issue of the TRC.

First shown in '91 catalog but it only lasted a couple of years:
https://www.gad.net/Blog/2010/08/13/guild-guitar-catalog-1990/#gallery-11

A really interesting detail on those and all pre-'94 "Fxxce" models is that 2 full octave 24 fret short scale (24-3/4") neck, readily ID'd by the second double dots on the 24th fret.
It was intended to feel like as close to an electric neck as an acoustic can feel. So if you're coming from that side it could explain why it felt so right to you out of the box.
David Byrne cherishes his F15ce:
http://www.letstalkguild.com/ltg/showthread.php?178790-Guild-Sighting-David-Byrne-on-a-Guild-A-E!
And that's about all the deep background I can think of for F15ce's
:friendly_wink:

I basically made it sound like I was willing to unburden them of this non-selling used guitar. After some hemming and hawing, they saw I was ready to walk away (and I was). The supposed District Manager was there working the deal. He finally told the sales rep to let me have it +$50. That was good enough for me.
'At's the way to do it!
Well played!
:biggrin-new:
And a credit to that District Manager, too, because in fact the cash flow ismore important than the profit dollars if it's tied up in over-aged inventory.
We've heard stories of some of their managers not "getting it" and to be fair we do know that GC's been having troubles and they did change their store manager's marching orders re pricing on "vintage" instruments, apparently they do have less discretionary latitude on pricing than they used to a couple of years ago..
 
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khan

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For clarification for our new member:
The actual model number is "F15ce."
Ralf was explaining that model was all-'hog, what the "CE" stood for, and the "M" indicates the top color and is where Guild normally put a color designation.
That looks like an unstained top (First F15ce I've ever seen that way, I think!); I think "M" was used because "Natural" was normally used on unstained spruce tops no matter what color the body was, but it was used to denote a Mahogany (dark) colored finish in other models.

Welcome aboard! I didn't catch you were a brand new member in your post over in "Tech"

OK that's an anomaly, it should just use the regular old 2-screw black plastic cover.
s-l640.jpg

https://www.ebay.com/i/111693742938...MI8-vu4py75gIVFLvsCh1dKgkkEAQYASABEgJQSPD_BwE
(and I think that's overpriced at $7.49, could probably do better even with cost of mailing)
While you could do what you say, I suspect maybe somebody removed some wood around the truss rod cavity and took the screw hole with it?
A close-up of the truss rod access cavity would be handy, because from here it looks as though maybe the truss channel itself may not have been deep enough, making the adjusting nut itself come out too close to the nut, necessitating the too-long access cavity?
But Guild would not normally let something like that out the door or even let the neck get mounted onto an instrument.
Can't blow up your pic enough to be sure either, but could it be somebody put a washer on the end of the truss rod to increase adjustability and that's why the rod cavity is enlarged?
Leaving the TRC loose against the nut could create a buzzing issue of the TRC.

First shown in '91 catalog but it only lasted a couple of years:
https://www.gad.net/Blog/2010/08/13/guild-guitar-catalog-1990/#gallery-11

A really interesting detail on those and all pre-'94 "Fxxce" models is that 2 full octave 24 fret short scale (24-3/4") neck, readily ID'd by the second double dots on the 24th fret.
It was intended to feel like as close to an electric neck as an acoustic can feel. So if you're coming from that side it could explain why it felt so right to you out of the box.
David Byrne cherishes his F15ce:
http://www.letstalkguild.com/ltg/showthread.php?178790-Guild-Sighting-David-Byrne-on-a-Guild-A-E!
And that's about all the deep background I can think of for F15ce's
:friendly_wink:


'At's the way to do it!
Well played!
:biggrin-new:
And a credit to that District Manager, too, because in fact the cash flow ismore important than the profit dollars if it's tied up in over-aged inventory.
We've heard stories of some of their managers not "getting it" and to be fair we do know that GC's been having troubles and they did change their store manager's marching orders re pricing on "vintage" instruments, apparently they do have less discretionary latitude on pricing than they used to a couple of years ago..


Here's a close-up of the truss rod area. Looks like maybe somebody did hack out some wood by the nut. Maybe the previous owner tried using a standard nut driver and it wouldn't fit w/o clearing some space? Who knows? I will be taking this to the guitar tech I use and see what he says are my options. Can a piece of wood be glued back in? Should I get a three screw cover and drill small holes for screws. I would like to cover the space to keep junk out of the truss rod area.

truss-02.jpg
[/url][/IMG]

Thanks for the clarification of so many details. It did take some digging to find this specific model. I saw it listed as F15 CE but, the label inside the guitar has it F15 CEM and now that I look more closely, there is an attempt at a space between the E and M.

My pic does make it look a shade or two lighter than it is but, it seems to really look different in different light and especially at different angles.

I am coming form being a mainly electric, solid-body player. Stratocasters mostly. And I go for flatter fretboards. I have longer fingers so, a 12" radius feels better. Not sure what the radius is on this guy but, it feels great in my hands. Better than any other acoustic guitar I'd played and I've been looking for quite a while. It was really hard to hold off and not just buy it at any price but, my cheapness and feeling to need to "make a deal" drove me and gave me resolve to hold out. And much as I wouldn't have wanted to, I was ready to walk on it when we were dealing at GC. The guitar must have been there a fair bit longer than when I came upon it. They probably still made $100 on it. The DM said to go lower, he'd have to contact their vintage office. I don't know if that was true or not but, I figured I would take the deal on the table and I really was happy with it.

Thanks for the links to appreciate the guitar even more. I haven't checked them out yet but, that's next after submitting this. And I really appreciate your sharing all of this background on this guitar. That is very thoughtful and kind of you, adorshki!
 

khan

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For clarification for our new member:
The actual model number is "F15ce."
Ralf was explaining that model was all-'hog, what the "CE" stood for, and the "M" indicates the top color and is where Guild normally put a color designation.
That looks like an unstained top (First F15ce I've ever seen that way, I think!); I think "M" was used because "Natural" was normally used on unstained spruce tops no matter what color the body was, but it was used to denote a Mahogany (dark) colored finish in other models.

Welcome aboard! I didn't catch you were a brand new member in your post over in "Tech"

OK that's an anomaly, it should just use the regular old 2-screw black plastic cover.
s-l640.jpg

https://www.ebay.com/i/111693742938...MI8-vu4py75gIVFLvsCh1dKgkkEAQYASABEgJQSPD_BwE
(and I think that's overpriced at $7.49, could probably do better even with cost of mailing)
While you could do what you say, I suspect maybe somebody removed some wood around the truss rod cavity and took the screw hole with it?
A close-up of the truss rod access cavity would be handy, because from here it looks as though maybe the truss channel itself may not have been deep enough, making the adjusting nut itself come out too close to the nut, necessitating the too-long access cavity?
But Guild would not normally let something like that out the door or even let the neck get mounted onto an instrument.
Can't blow up your pic enough to be sure either, but could it be somebody put a washer on the end of the truss rod to increase adjustability and that's why the rod cavity is enlarged?
Leaving the TRC loose against the nut could create a buzzing issue of the TRC.

First shown in '91 catalog but it only lasted a couple of years:
https://www.gad.net/Blog/2010/08/13/guild-guitar-catalog-1990/#gallery-11

A really interesting detail on those and all pre-'94 "Fxxce" models is that 2 full octave 24 fret short scale (24-3/4") neck, readily ID'd by the second double dots on the 24th fret.
It was intended to feel like as close to an electric neck as an acoustic can feel. So if you're coming from that side it could explain why it felt so right to you out of the box.
David Byrne cherishes his F15ce:
http://www.letstalkguild.com/ltg/showthread.php?178790-Guild-Sighting-David-Byrne-on-a-Guild-A-E!
And that's about all the deep background I can think of for F15ce's
:friendly_wink:


'At's the way to do it!
Well played!
:biggrin-new:
And a credit to that District Manager, too, because in fact the cash flow ismore important than the profit dollars if it's tied up in over-aged inventory.
We've heard stories of some of their managers not "getting it" and to be fair we do know that GC's been having troubles and they did change their store manager's marching orders re pricing on "vintage" instruments, apparently they do have less discretionary latitude on pricing than they used to a couple of years ago..


Here's a close-up of the truss rod area. Looks like maybe somebody did hack out some wood by the nut. Maybe the previous owner tried using a standard nut driver and it wouldn't fit w/o clearing some space? Who knows? I will be taking this to the guitar tech I use and see what he says are my options. Can a piece of wood be glued back in? Should I get a three screw cover and drill small holes for screws. I would like to cover the space to keep junk out of the truss rod area.

truss-02.jpg
[/url][/IMG]

Thanks for the clarification of so many details. It did take some digging to find this specific model. I saw it listed as F15 CE but, the label inside the guitar has it F15 CEM and now that I look more closely, there is an attempt at a space between the E and M.

My pic does make it look a shade or two lighter than it is but, it seems to really look different in different light and especially at different angles.

I am coming form being a mainly electric, solid-body player. Stratocasters mostly. And I go for flatter fretboards. I have longer fingers so, a 12" radius feels better. Not sure what the radius is on this guy but, it feels great in my hands. Better than any other acoustic guitar I'd played and I've been looking for quite a while. It was really hard to hold off and not just buy it at any price but, my cheapness and feeling to need to "make a deal" drove me and gave me resolve to hold out. And much as I wouldn't have wanted to, I was ready to walk on it when we were dealing at GC. The guitar must have been there a fair bit longer than when I came upon it. They probably still made $100 on it. The DM said to go lower, he'd have to contact their vintage office. I don't know if that was true or not but, I figured I would take the deal on the table and I really was happy with it.

Thanks for the links to appreciate the guitar even more. I haven't checked them out yet but, that's next after submitting this. And I really appreciate your sharing all of this background on this guitar. That is very thoughtful and kind of you, adorshki!
 

chazmo

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Ouch, that's pretty ugly around the TR, khan. I hope the neck is good for you as this could indicate that there was some trouble with the truss rod, or perhaps not.

Anyway, nice axe, and welcome aboard.
 

Guildedagain

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Do NOT do a 3 screw cover.

That's how you can tell a Chinese made guitar apart from the others. American guitars always have 2 screws.

Yes, it's a little bit ugly around the hole but unless something's wrong the the TR itself, it's not really an issue. It looks like somebody tried to turn it with a pair of pliers, or?

It takes a 1/4" nut driver, commonly used on tiny hose clamps.

Back to the cover. Yes, there is wood missing, but I wouldn't bother putting it back in. I'd take a cover, and a pair of screws, and just simply glue the lower screw into the cover, install with upper screw, thx to gravity, it stays in place just fine. I've had to do this before.

I have the cover and the screws, can send no charge by way of letter. I live to fix stuff, even from a distance, and there's nothing better than fixing a Guild.

The rest of the guys here will tell you how to put it on right ;))
 
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hansmoust

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Here's a close-up of the truss rod area. Looks like maybe somebody did hack out some wood by the nut.
truss-02.jpg

From what I can see in the photo, I would think that somebody overtightened the nut and snapped the truss rod or stripped the thread. The nut you see is not a Guild nut, but a Gibson style one and some wood was removed to get to a 'fresh' part of the rod that could be threaded or still had some thread left.

Sincerely,

Hans Moust
www.guitarsgalore.nl
 
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