S-100: Repair of phase selector switch.

I have a good lead on an S-100 for a good price, but I'm told the phase selector switch doesn't work. I'm wondering what I'm getting into with this guitar and if this is going to be a reasonable repair.

The seller believes that it's a simple matter of replacing the switch. I know it's hard to say without cracking it open, but I still need advice on how to proceed with the sale.

So, would you consider this a deal breaker when it comes to value?

Is there a diagram to guide me through the repair?

Is there a resource I can look for a period correct replacement?

Thanks in advance,

Kent

Exhibit A



The control cavity of a 1971 JS II bass.

To the extent that the S-100 is similar (and I believe it is) there is room to work. If the problem is only the switch then I would suspect that the hardest part would be finding a new part. What you won't know until you crack things open is whether the problem is in the switch or easily accessible wiring or in the PU itself.

Personally I don't think it should be a deal breaker - you still have a useful guitar if you don't fix the switch, right? - and if it is just the switch I think you'll get change from $10 after buying the parts.

Most definitely not a deal-breaker. It is a small part of the guitar overall and should be cheap and easy to fix. I wonder if the seller realises it only has an effect on tone if the pick-up selector is in the middle position.

First, thank you both for your replies. I'm hoping I can get this all sorted out.

I have a really great opportunity to get this guitar for about $900. it's a 77, it's cream white, and everything is great except the switch.

The seller also has an M85 from the same time. it has a closed-in space between the stop and the bridge, so that dates it to 76 or later.

He's giving me an even better deal if I combine.

The M85 is a great GREAT guitar. but there's just one problem. Sometime a long time ago (judging from the aging of the wood) someone carved off the serial number. It's probably been "hot" for 20 years or more. The marks are not at all fresh.

Now would THAT be a deal breaker?

fearless said:

Most definitely not a deal-breaker. It is a small part of the guitar overall and should be cheap and easy to fix. I wonder if the seller realises it only has an effect on tone if the pick-up selector is in the middle position.

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This guy knows guilds pretty well. But he respects the idea of "original" so he's disclosing all issues as he should.

Well that is a personal decision. I would never buy anything hot - it just encourages thieves. But hot 20 years ago? I guess it gets a bit harder to judge, but the principle is the same - it would be a good message to have in the community in general that if a guitar has been stolen and had the serial number defaced it is worthless and will never be worth anything again, so don't bother stealing it.

It is possible that a thief may not have removed the internal serial number behind the back plate. It might be possible to run that through a police check, stolen guitar database check, or something. Then at least you would know that you've done all you can to find the original owner. Actually, that is the kind of thing the seller should do, and then provide documentary evidence that all possible steps have been taken to return it to the poor bugger who paid good money for it and had it stolen.

I'd still think carefully about it though. Leaving the ethics of accepting once-stolen goods aside - you are going to have all sorts of issues if you ever resell it. It is little wonder that the seller is bundling it up with another guitar - it would be nigh impossible to advertise otherwise. If you were to buy it anyway, it's value is now a fraction of what an honest one would be. Sad to see a nice guitar so de-valued.

So for my money, I'd say it could be a deal-breaker, for the M-85 at least. ymmv.

Yeah, it only took me about a 30 seconds after asking that to know that I just couldn't do it. For all the reasons you've stated and more.

I had no idea that there was another SN under the plate until now. But I'm at a kind of a disadvantage in that I can't exactly take a screwdriver to this man's guitar.

Believe me. the bundle deal was a really good deal. Too good.

A feel a little embarrassed that I even considered it.

Don't be - something like that is always tempting - particularly when you are being honest yourself. 8)
You'll still be able to bag the s-100 though? A cream white '77 is a darn fine prospect. I hesitated over one a few years back and regretted it immediately after it was snapped up while I was sleeping on it. They don't come up often and look great in white
If you decide to pass on it, I know Zelja is on the look out.

Good luck with that cream S-100, LA!

I wonder where frono is. After all we are discussing M-85 bass here. What color is that M85?

I'm a little slow on the uptake. Some days I go to work and actually do some :lol:

Might be worth confirming that we are talking about a M-85 bass and not a similar guitar and using the wrong model number.

Many Guild solid bodies from the '70's have a label on the control cavity cover that has model, finish and serial. (Not always true. My '71 doesn't have one and Hans has confirmed it is from a time period when the labels weren't always used).

The ethics in this case are interesting. It bothers me that a stolen instrument is forever tainted even when there is no possibility of finding the owner or catching the thief. But, I probably would not buy one unless the seller provided documentation that a good faith effort had been made to find the original owner. If I was comfortable with the effort I probably would buy although at a price seriously below market value and with no expectation of an easy resale. Isn't that statute of limitations about 7 years in a case like this?

fronobulax said:

I'm a little slow on the uptake. Some days I go to work and actually do some :lol:

Might be worth confirming that we are talking about a M-85 bass and not a similar guitar and using the wrong model number.

Many Guild solid bodies from the '70's have a label on the control cavity cover that has model, finish and serial. (Not always true. My '71 doesn't have one and Hans has confirmed it is from a time period when the labels weren't always used).

The ethics in this case are interesting. It bothers me that a stolen instrument is forever tainted even when there is no possibility of finding the owner or catching the thief. But, I probably would not buy one unless the seller provided documentation that a good faith effort had been made to find the original owner. If I was comfortable with the effort I probably would buy although at a price seriously below market value and with no expectation of an easy resale. Isn't that statute of limitations about 7 years in a case like this?

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I'm so sorry. I said M-85 over and over again, but I meant M-75. This is a guitar, not a bass. were there M-85 guitars?

As for the color, it's brown/natural but not a caramel like the natural S-100's I've seen, More of an earthy walnut color.

Los Angeles said:

I'm so sorry. I said M-85 over and over again, but I meant M-75. This is a guitar, not a bass. were there M-85 guitars?

As for the color, it's brown/natural but not a caramel like the natural S-100's I've seen, More of an earthy walnut color.

Click to expand...

No problem. I focused on the word "guitar" but others caught the M-85. AFAIK if it is a Guild and a M-85 then it must be a bass.

My JS is walnut. Color can be inferred from the control cavity pic although it is darker in that pic than in person.

I posted this in another thread somewhere, but I DID just a couple of days ago see a walnut or burst (can't remember now) M85 with two hagstroms at a place called "Real Guitars" in San Francisco. Asking price was somewhere around 2500.