Hmmm> I think this paragraph from that article is pretty good endorsement of one reason to stick with hide glue:
"
What that means is that one can take a hide glue joint apart (if one knows how, and if one is willing to be patient) without removing of any actual wood. One cannot take a Titebonded joint apart without losing at least a little bit of the original wood: one undoes the joint and then needs to do some sanding or scraping to expose fresh wood. This might not seem like an important consideration in most woodworking, and it is pretty much irrelevant in factory-made guitars: there’s enough wood in these so that you can lose 1/64″ of thickness and still be all right. But in craftsman-level guitar work, which can allow for more carefully titrated and thicknessed parts, the loss of a few thousandths of an inch of wood may make a difference in sound.
But, what I meant by "stronger" is that hide glue absolutely has the best
creep resistance of any glue suitable for building guitars, ie it resists
stretching under tension better than any other glue.
That's why I consider it a better glue for neck sets: under the constant stress of string tension trying to pull the dovetail from its socket, hide glue performs better. It has virtually zero creep at normal temps and humidities recommended for guitars, according to this chart found on Frets.com:
Frank Ford prefers hide glue and that's good enough for me.
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