Thinking on a different setup, '61 X-175

[mad dog]

This lovely blond X-175 came to me (thank you Zizala!!) with the stock Bigsby and bridge replaced by a period correct rosewood bridge and harp tailpiece. The stock Bigsby items came with the guitar.

I've been playing it that way, string with .050 - .012 strings, wound G. Mostly using the neck p/u only. Lately I've been switching to the middle spot, realizing this is a great strength of this guitar, and wonder how it would play with a Bigsby and slightly lighter strings. I don't want to put the stock Bigsby bridge on. I believe it's for a wound G. Also, I'd prefer a wooden base, non-aluminum bridge tone-wise.

So thinking on ordering a Tru-Arch brass compensated bridge, for the unwound G. With which I'd use D'Addario .049 to .011 strings. Question is, do I need to specify a radius and string spacing. What would that be for a vintage X175?

Thanks much, and happy Tday!

 

[Jeff Haddad]

I can't answer the radius question, my X175 isn't at home right now but Tru-Arc does make different radii for their product. You can probably find a radius gauge online to print out and check your guitar.

You should be able to measure the post and string spacing on your existing bridge and re-use the bridge base with the new bridge.

Also, I think I speak for the forum in saying we appreciate pictures!

 

[Default]

Tubesandmore.com has Guild-spaced unwound G Bigsby bridges for around fifty bucks.

 

[Walter Broes]

That's my rig, a franz-equipped 175 with a Bigsby and 11's. Has been for 20 years..!

My own unsollicited advice : skip the D'addario XL's and go with Pyramid, thomastik or Mangan pure nickel roundwound roundcore strings. Much sweeter sounding, and it makes sense too - there were no nickel plated steel strings when these pickups (and guitars ...) were made/designed.

I've tried Tru-Arcs with this setup, and went back to abr-1 style tune-a-matics in a hurry. With a bright guitar with very bright single coils the very efficient agressive attack of the Tru-Arc was "too much", almost strident and a little harsh.

As for radius, the ines I've seen are somewhere between 9" and 10" radius, but it's worth checking with a radius gauge. I remember Hans telling me Guild eyeballed the fingerboard radius on a belt sander, so there's some variation!

 

[mad dog]

I've tried Tru-Arcs with this setup, and went back to abr-1 style tune-a-matics in a hurry. With a bright guitar with very bright single coils the very efficient agressive attack of the Tru-Arc was "too much", almost strident and a little harsh.

Interesting ... everything you say here. Never thought about strings. On the Tru-Arc: which metal bridges did you try? On the ABR-1 style bridge you use now, are you using steel saddles or nylon.

And thanks to everyone who responded here. I do appreciate your advice!

 

[Walter Broes]

I've tried stainless Tru-Arcs and Brass Gretsch brass bridges with pretty similar results. ABR-1's - usually brass saddles, on my favourite guitar (my '62 X175) I have brass saddles on the wound strings and nylon on the trebles.

 

[swiveltung]

I cant help with the specs but it's nice to match them for radius, and yes you should for string spacing. Radius less important IMHO. Why? Because think about compound radius necks, the string radius will never match that!
I have tried 4 bridges on my Ibanez Geo Benson. Frankly, bridges make a TINY bit of difference in tone. The guitar comes with two; a wooden bridge and a Tune O Matic.
I settled on a Brass bar bridge. It seems to "smooooth" the sound. There's a lot of mass in that bar.
But as I said it's TINY. I'd love to have a proper Truarc. The Aluminum bridge I tried was probably the most cutting or edgy offsetting the warm GB guitar tone a bit.

 

[Smiert Spionam]

I agree about checking your existing bridge for spacing (unless of course it doesn't line up with your polepieces) -- and also don't worry much about radius. You can check it with a homemade gauge (printed out from a template online), but 10 is probably just fine.

I think the pic of the X-440 in my avatar shows an aluminum Bigsby bridge on a wooden base -- but I agree that that's going to be very strident. In addition to that combo, I've owned stainless, brass, and copper Tru-Arc Serpentunes, and they're more alike than different (I have a copper one on this guitar right now). Walter's right that an ABR-1 is going to be less brash, though I like the Tru-Arc.

Pyramid nickel round wounds for me, too.

 

[mad dog]

Le jeux sont fait ... project underway. I'll try both a tru arc brass and an ABR 1 TOM. Could take a while to get the Tru Arc bridge. Ordered Pyramid pure nickel roundwounds, thanks much Walter.

Meantime, I've been listening to a lot of Paladins. (Always have ...) And playing this X-175 much louder, though a tasty tube amp, trying different effects, Bigfoot Magnavibe, picking down by the bridge, all that. Up til now, I've played my old Franz equipped archtops more or less for jazz sort of sounds. Quieter, neck only on the X175, solid state amps. And now it's clear I had a lot more to learn about Franz p/us. I'm no Dave Gonzalez, but now I can hear how - at least on the equipment side - he gets that huge sound. These Franz p/us are amazing, can get quite wild. I'd never pushed them that hard, just had not realized what they can do.

Guilds are the best!