SF IV no bridge pickup sound

JohnW63

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Since twisting the knobs doesn't make any difference and there is no crackly sounds, I'm guessing the switch is the failed part. If I toggle the switch should I pick up a difference at the output jack, if it was really moving from the neck to the bridge pickup? Unless they are dead equal, I think the resistance would change. Or it would go from something at the neck to wide open at the bridge.
 

GAD

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Need more info, but I can't imagine a scenario where there is zero change in DCR measured at the output jack **in a properly stock wired Starfire IV** when you move the toggle switch short of the toggle having been bypassed.

Is this a new guitar? New problem? Did it ever work?
 

Nuuska

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If you connect ohm-meter on output and then toggle switch to bridge position - is there any change in reading when you turn the volume pot ?

If yes - then the problem is before volume pot = pickup.

If no - then either a loose wire or faulty switch.
 

JohnW63

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It's the one in my signature, GAD. I just noticed the issue last week. While I tend to live on the neck pickup, I'm pretty sure it worked before. I guess I need to do some troubleshooting inside instead of yard work, today. Rats.
 

JohnW63

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It looks to be the toggle switch. The volume pots make changes to the output ohms happen in a predictable way, but sometimes after toggling the switch the bridge pickup can be 8K ohms or up in the Meg Ohms range. I though giving the ring a tighten on the switch fixed it, but then it went out of wack again. I'll have to pull it out and check for cracked solder. What size rubber tubing is needed to hang onto the toggle switch ?
 

SFIV1967

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What size rubber tubing is needed to hang onto the toggle switch ?

But I think for the switch you can also use like dental floss or other good thinner thread, you probably need no tubing for it. You also might want to bend a tool from an old coat hanger used at dry cleaners (or other wire you have at hand):





Ralf
 
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GAD

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Can I make my own coat hanger tool? I'll have to freeze the video and try.
I use a piece of a coat hanger. There’s no special shape - just a bend in one end. I’m sure the special shapes would help but really you just need that one more finger in there that won’t reach through the f-hole. :)

If you’re just doing the toggle you don’t need a tool. Just tie a piece of floss or even string to the toggle after you take the nut off. There’s plenty of slack so it’s not hard to get it out like the pots can be.
 

JohnW63

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I was attempting to get the toggle out with some thin string only to find it did not just drop into the body. There is something behind it that is keeping it from having enough room to drop out. I thought the only not hollow part was the block under the pickups.
 

GAD

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I was attempting to get the toggle out with some thin string only to find it did not just drop into the body. There is something behind it that is keeping it from having enough room to drop out. I thought the only not hollow part was the block under the pickups.
There are often sticky hooks stuck on the underside of the top that look like this:

IMG_0038.JPG

These keep the bundle of wire tight so it doesn't flop around. Could that be what you're feeling?

This is a pic from an acoustic. I don't recall if they're in electrics but it wouldn't surprise me.
 

GAD

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Thinking more I don't think that's it. This is a '98 Starfire? They're pretty thin. Could you be hitting the back of the guitar?
 

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I have had a similar experience to the OP and found that the switch was dirty/had buildup. A little cleaner sprayed in there and all was new. It’s worth a try.
 

GAD

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I have had a similar experience to the OP and found that the switch was dirty/had buildup. A little cleaner sprayed in there and all was new. It’s worth a try.
Be careful - the troubleshooting has moved to getting the switch out.

Don’t spray anything in an attempt to get the switch out. Hopefully that’s obvious and I’m just being dense.
 

BradHK

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I am going to ask a REALY stupid question (no offense intended!). Have you removed the switch tip to provide extra clearance?
 

JohnW63

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Brad,

I thought about that. It just that there was very little drop distance from " Installed " to " What's that hitting? "

GAD,

That's an interesting thought. I guess it depends on how tall the switch box, below the tip is. The guitar is rather thin. Not a lot more than an inch thick. Hmmm.
 

SFIV1967

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If you take a flashlight and a small mirror you should be able to see through the f-hole and identify what is holding the switch back I'd think.

Ralf
 

GAD

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That's an interesting thought. I guess it depends on how tall the switch box, below the tip is. The guitar is rather thin. Not a lot more than an inch thick. Hmmm.

Depending on the switch design and how they ran the wires, the wires may be tied to the bottom of the switch as well.

I once had a ‘76 Stereo Starfire IV and since it was stereo the master volume was a double stack pot. I could not get it out if the guitar. I got it out if its hole, but I could not get it through either the f-hole or the pickup route. I became convinced that they mounted it to the top before assembling the guitar, though it’s possible I just never discovered the magic angle to get it out.
 

GAD

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If you can’t figure it out it may be worth PMing Hans. He’s got more experience working on Guilds than probably anyone and might be able to offer some insight.
 

Nuuska

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Thinking of the shape of the switch - it should be tilted to same direction as the lever moves - keeping it upright to the other direction. And I would unscrew the tip first.
 

JohnW63

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I just did a bit a trying, with the tip removed. The switch when pulled upward, with the string shows about 3 grooves of the thread of the switch. When pushed down the threads of the switch just barely clear the wood, if that. I tried rotating and rocking the switch and it just didn't seem to have room. Maybe there is a coil of the wires under it? I'll have to get something to stick in the f-hole to see what's going on.
 
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