Replacing a bridge

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Hi all. First time poster. Used to play classical when I was younger, now trying to get back into it after a forty year hiatus and retirement. I still have the same guitar from back then, but the bridge needs replacing. I figured I'd try and find the part before I took it to someone who does guitar repair for a living. Been to a few websites and can't find it listed anywhere. Looks like the Model # is MK1 and the serial is CA-835. Any information on the model or where to get the part would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Mark
 

walrus

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I can't answer your question, but welcome, Mark!

walrus
 

geoguy

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Welcome . . .

I assume that a repair person would likely need to make a new bridge for your guitar, if one was indeed needed.

If you post your location, another LTG member may be able to suggest a suitable repair shop in your area.

Also, why do you judge that the bridge requires replacement?
 

Nuuska

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Hello from cold weather Finland - though right now it's pretty warm. 😂

And welcome to WHoI = Warm Heart of Internet - plenty of friendly folks here. 😍


Like Geoguy wrote - why do you think you need a new bridge?

Or maybe you just need a new saddle?
 
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Thanks for the welcome, guys! I'm in central Pennsylvania. I'm not sure you can see it in the attached photo, but a piece of wood broke off that holds the white plastic piece(the saddle?) in. I'm sorry if I don't have the correct terminology. The middle G string sounds horrible. So does my playing, but this makes it even worse.
 

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Nuuska

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Oh o !!

Seems like you need a good repairperson - but it can be done.
 

SFIV1967

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the white plastic piece(the saddle?)
Welcome to LTG! Yes "saddle" is correct.
I think the whole guitar needs to be checked by a luthier who can estimate if the existing bridge can be repaired or if a new one needs to be carved. The current saddle is already bended, so intonation also of the E and A strings seems to be out of tune.

1625439373702.png

Stay tuned, some members might have ideas about good luthiers in the central Pennsylvania region.


The serial number CA-835 makes this a 1966 built Mark I.

From the 1966 catalog:

1625439628962.png

1625439647393.png

Nov 1, 1966 pricelist:

1625439746167.png

There used to be a brochure for all six Mark models that were existing in the first half of the 60's but I have not seen a copy of it:

1625440032822.png


Ralf
 
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GAD

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I have that brochure. I think it’s even scanned, but it’s not online. So much to do…
 
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Welcome to LTG! Yes "saddle" is correct.
I think the whole guitar needs to be checked by a luthier who can estimate if the existing bridge can be repaired or if a new one needs to be carved. The current saddle is already bended, so intonation also of the E and A strings seems to be out of tune.

1625439373702.png

Stay tuned, some members might have ideas about good luthiers in the central Pennsylvania region.


The serial number CA-835 makes this a 1966 built Mark I.

From the 1966 catalog:

1625439628962.png

1625439647393.png

Nov 1, 1966 pricelist:

1625439746167.png

There used to be a brochure for all six Mark models that were existing in the first half of the 60's but I have not seen a copy of it:

1625440032822.png


Ralf
Thanks for all the information, Ralf! Looking at the price list, I'd say this was one of their "introductory" guitars. I'm not the original owner, but I've had it for 45 years and there's alot of sentimental value to it. It's been with me, though not used, all that time. That said, I've got a feeling it's going to be an expensive fix. I'm an experienced woodworker(not luthier), and I found a decent Youtube video with a guy replacing one, but I wouldn't try it myself. Thanks again! Mark
 

geoguy

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Yes, that looks repairable to me, assuming you still have the broken piece. Not so much string tension on a nylon-string guitar, compared to a steel-string.

If you are located near State College, PA a fellow named Mark Chaplin seems to garner great reviews (an on-line search will get you his phone number).
 

fronobulax

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Thanks for all the information, Ralf! Looking at the price list, I'd say this was one of their "introductory" guitars. I'm not the original owner, but I've had it for 45 years and there's alot of sentimental value to it. It's been with me, though not used, all that time. That said, I've got a feeling it's going to be an expensive fix. I'm an experienced woodworker(not luthier), and I found a decent Youtube video with a guy replacing one, but I wouldn't try it myself. Thanks again! Mark


Welcome. Yes the Mark I was the entry level model but the differences between the I, II, III and IV tend to be cosmetic or tonewoods rather than functional.
 

AcornHouse

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Having done a similar repair on my bari uke, I will say that it’ll be better in the long run to have a luthier rout down the saddle holder section, glue in a block to fit, and then shape and rout a new slot. The way it is, there will be very little glueing surface (if you can find the missing piece), and the stress on it will most likely snap it off again anyway.
By grafting on a new piece, you’ll have a good solid flat glue surface to work with that is below the saddle slot.
 
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Yes, that looks repairable to me, assuming you still have the broken piece. Not so much string tension on a nylon-string guitar, compared to a steel-string.

If you are located near State College, PA a fellow named Mark Chaplin seems to garner great reviews (an on-line search will get you his phone number).
Thank you, Geoguy! I'm about 35 miles from State College. I will definitely check him out. Thanks!
 
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I do not have the original broken piece. Years ago, my father-in-law glued a replacement piece in and it held up all those years, though it wasn't really tested much due to lack of use. I still have THAT one and I'll show it to the repair person. AcornHouse, that was an interesting fix you brought up. I'll run it by them. I have a palm router and a decent amount of woodworking experience( I would say it's a serious hobby), but I've never worked with a small, intricate project like this one. I'll try an expert first. You've guys have been very helpful! Thanks to all for your advice and information!
 

SFIV1967

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Whatever way you go, keep us updated on any progress!

And Chris (AcornHouse) knows what he is talking about, he's a Master in such topics, look at some of his builds:

Ralf
 
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