Questions RE: fixing/modding a Newark Street S-100

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Hi everyone,

I recently bought a new Newark Street S-100. I am pretty happy with it but there are a few things that need "fixing" and a few changes I'm interested in making. It's hard to find people with much experience of these so I thought I'd look for any tips or perspectives here.

Firstly, the three-way pickup selector switch "cuts out" sometimes when I select the neck pickup. Also I sometimes seem to "lose" the neck pickup in the middle position. Is this more likely a faulty switch? Or a bad solder joint? I quite enjoy the orange plastic switch tip so I am hoping the switch doesn't need replacing entirely, or that I can replace it with one that will take the same switch tip. If the switch is a "weird" one that I would struggle to source I am wondering if I can contact Guild (theoretically, the guitar is under warranty). If I do get the soldering iron out (or have someone else do it) I was thinking of putting in a phase switch and a series/parallel switch (as I understand it, putting the pickups in series would counteract some of the volume drop from the out of phase setting). I am a Zappa fan and wanted to steal some of the ideas from his Roxy and Baby Snakes SGs. I am not sure about push-pull pots as I found them awkward on a LP-type guitar I had before. I am considering drilling two holes in the top between the selector switch and the neck tone pot and putting in two microswitches for the series/parallel and in/out phase wiring (such that they can both be flipped in one action).

While I was doing anything to the electronics I was considering replacing the pickups with some that have four-conductor wiring in order to put in coil splits (also thinking of zebra pickups for the cosmetics). From doing some reading though I gather the HB-1 humbuckers in the Newark St S-100 have the same unusual dimensions as a vintage Guild? Therefore, am I right in thinking replacing the pickups would also mean replacing the pickup rings? That is starting to sound like a complicated project.

It also seems the nut was cut too low on the bass side (E and A strings). I used the method where you press the string down between the second and third frets and look for a little clearance over the first fret. The E and A strings are definitely touching the first fret when I do that. On the other hand, the treble side may have too much clearance. I am torn on trying to remove and shim the nut myself or taking it to a tech (who could then also do the wiring). Once the nut is "happy" I think the bridge saddles might need some filing done too (the strings seem to sit quite "high" on the bridge such that I have to adjust the bridge height to be near the bottom of its range to get decent action).
 

GAD

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Sounds like you've found all the common ailments with NS guitars. :) Switches failing and poorly cut nuts are common.

That sounds like a bad switch to me. They're known to be... not great, so I'd just swap it with something better. I don't believe Guild sells just the switch because they sell the entire wiring harness, but honestly the switch is crap - put in a Switchcraft. I'm not sure about the switch tip, though. I'm usually more than happy to get rid of them since I'm not a fan of the orange.

Depending on the year of your S100, it may have HB1s or LB1s. If they are HB1s, then yes - they are not the same size as standard humbuckers, but standard humbuckers are a bit smaller so they will fit in the rings if you want to keep them. See dimensions here: https://www.gad.net/Blog/2011/11/25/guild-full-sized-hb1-and-sd1-pickup-variations/
 

kakerlak

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You can still find a yellow/amber switch tip out there for US/Switchcraft switches. I agree with GAD that, if replacing it, you might as well get a good one. As far as troubleshooting, pop the back plate off and observe it in action. Might need to tighten the body of the switch, bend one of its contacts or do a little cleaning.

As far as low-cut nut slots? Are the strings buzzing open? If not, then no worries. If so, then yeah, you can shim it. Take a maple coffee stirrer and glue it to the underside of the nut, then sand it down to the right minimum height and chase down any remaining high slots. You can alternately fill slots with baking soda and super glue and re-file, but sometimes those fills pop out after a while.

Nut files can be expensive, but a cheapass set of welding nozzle files will work. I wouldn't want to try to slot a nut from scratch with them, bc/ they're not much of a cutting file, but they're adequate for deepening existing slots w/o wallowing them out too wide.
 
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Prolly replacing the switch And the pots would be an improvement.
switchcraft + CTS.
 

matsickma

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Hey kakerlak... I thought I was the only one using acetylene welding torch cleaner files to touch up the slots in a nut?!
From a moment of desperation I reverted back to my earlier skills as a welder and used those files to touch up a nut and have made use of the torch "tip cleaners" many times since!
M
 

kakerlak

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Hey kakerlak... I thought I was the only one using acetylene welding torch cleaner files to touch up the slots in a nut?!
From a moment of desperation I reverted back to my earlier skills as a welder and used those files to touch up a nut and have made use of the torch "tip cleaners" many times since!
M
They fit my budget. I can't imagine trying to slot one from scratch with them, though.
 

SFIV1967

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I thought I was the only one using acetylene welding torch cleaner files to touch up the slots in a nut?!
Nowadays there are sellers who sell them exactly for that purpose!


I also have the first version, but as some of the reviewers say: "I could not even file a plastic nut with these. These are nothing more than stiffer guitar strings. No teeth on any thinner ones, ineffective on all levels." But they work for repair work or small adjustments. Nothing more. Not suitable for making a new nut.

Ralf
 
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