NGD - '23 M-75 Aristocrat Ltd Black

Factory

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I'm new to this, first guitar was a D-40 Traditional GSR. I was so impressed with it, i started looking at their electric stuff. I narrowly missed out on a vintage Nightbird GG at a show, but I was fortunate enough to be able to play all of the new releases locally, including the T-50 slim, which was pretty cool. Ended up with this M-75 for really good money, practically new, probably grey market. Was reading on here that the Korean factory that produced these sadly recently shut down when they lost the Yamaha contract. It seems to be a highly regarded factory, and I thought it'd be a decent time to jump on it, as it could be the last time ever you can get a decent quality Guild electric under $1K (who knows). Sweetwater is blowing these out for $850 shipped w/ hardcase btw.

I also looked at the Yamaha Revstar RSS02T and really liked it, but it was heavier, no hardcase, indonesian-made vs Korean, and i found the focus/tone knob and switch positions a little gimmicky. With the M-75 I love what the tone knobs do with the sound, and the pickups seem to provide alot more versatility than the P90s in the Revstar. The difference in voicing between neck/bridge on the Guild is more distinct. The tone is incredible, just love the character that the body adds to the output. There's definitely a bit of feedback tho. Fun in small doses.
Like some have reported on here, the neck pickup is a touch louder than the bridge, like 9 on the dial vs 10. I did raise up the neck pickup 2mm on the treble side and 1mm on the bass side with some washers. Neck relief was about right out of the box, but I still can't get the action as low as i'd like. Maybe a nicer bridge would help?


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BradHK

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Welcome. That looks really nice and the photos are great! I especially love the detailed photos of the parts and measurements…but that may just be me
 

jp

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Neck relief was about right out of the box, but I still can't get the action as low as i'd like. Maybe a nicer bridge would help?

I've recommended this Gotoh 510BN tunematic with height adjustable saddles here a few times to NS M-75 owners. I've got one on mine, and I was able to dial it in really well. Are your post/studs mounted on the moveable cups, or are they attached to the top?

My bridge is on the cups that aren't attached, but pole spacing is very close to your measurements.

2-1/16" string, 2-29/32" post spacing
1738438624555.png 1738439208816.png

And there's this new fancier kind -- Gotoh 510FB -- with slotted locking post/stud holes for finer adjustment with only one screw. Spacing specs are the same, but the overall size is a bit larger.

1738439109650.png 1738439353921.png
 
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Looks good! That's the version that has tempted me many times over the past few months. I really don't *need* one since I've got something vintage that scratches that itch, but they're really great little guitars.
 

Factory

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thanks! it really is. i haven't played any of the vintage stuff, so i can't compare, but I'm plenty blown away by this and can't believe they aren't more popular than they are.
 

Factory

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I've recommended this Gotoh 510BN tunematic with height adjustable saddles here a few times to NS M-75 owners. I've got one on mine, and I was able to dial it in really well. Are your post/studs mounted on the moveable cups, or are they attached to the top?

My bridge is on the cups that aren't attached, but pole spacing is very close to your measurements.

2-1/16" string, 2-29/32" post spacing
1738438624555.png 1738439208816.png

And there's this new fancier kind -- Gotoh 510FB -- with slotted locking post/stud holes for finer adjustment with only one screw. Spacing specs are the same, but the overall size is a bit larger.

1738439109650.png 1738439353921.png

that's awesome! i think that's what i'm looking for. mine just drops down on the studs but isn't fixed in any way. probably M4 studs but haven't measured.
 
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LesB3

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thanks! it really is. i haven't played any of the vintage stuff, so i can't compare, but I'm plenty blown away by this and can't believe they aren't more popular than they are.
Agree. There's really nothing else like them; light, resonant, great sounding guitars. And for what they are, a steal at $850. Used ones (in burst) pop up for cheap, there was even a goldtop version on GC's website for $599, but looks like somoene snagged it. If I didn't already have three of these, I would have snagged it for sure.

Here's a burst that just got dropped to $499!
https://www.guitarcenter.com/Used/Guild/Aristocrat-Solid-Body-Electric-Guitar.gc
 

Walter Broes

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Nice!

Re : pickup balance - did you say you raised the neck pickup with spacers, or did you mean the bridge pickup? If the neck's too loud you'd want to lower it, of course.

as for action, check the nut too. Most brand new guitars have a nut that's cut a hair too high. That can make a guitar's action feel stiff very fast - and it plays out of tune in the lower fret positions.

I have a black one too, with gold hardware, from around 2015 I think. Was too cool to resist at €500 used!!
 

Factory

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Agree. There's really nothing else like them; light, resonant, great sounding guitars. And for what they are, a steal at $850. Used ones (in burst) pop up for cheap, there was even a goldtop version on GC's website for $599, but looks like somoene snagged it. If I didn't already have three of these, I would have snagged it for sure.

Here's a burst that just got dropped to $499!
https://www.guitarcenter.com/Used/Guild/Aristocrat-Solid-Body-Electric-Guitar.gc

that's wild, but i think it's mis listed as a M-75. It's got a chinese serial and the tortoise pick guard. fwiw, i got this black one for about that amount.

also, did you file in the existing slots in the bridge for the bass strings or leave them as is? they're pretty shallow slots.
 
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Factory

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Nice!

Re : pickup balance - did you say you raised the neck pickup with spacers, or did you mean the bridge pickup? If the neck's too loud you'd want to lower it, of course.

as for action, check the nut too. Most brand new guitars have a nut that's cut a hair too high. That can make a guitar's action feel stiff very fast - and it plays out of tune in the lower fret positions.

I have a black one too, with gold hardware, from around 2015 I think. Was too cool to resist at €500 used!!

i did raise the neck to get more toans, but you're right it is a little too loud now. just bought a set of nut files and gonna work on it a little. what clearance do you shoot for at the first fret? thanks!
 

Walter Broes

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I don't measure - I have the very unscientific and time-consuming method where I clip a tuner on the headstock, check the first fret, detune the string, file a careful couple of strokes, retune, repeat until spot-on. Once every string is in tune on the first fret, the guitar plays in tune on that end, and usually plays a lot better.
Two tips : do this with a relatively straight neck. If there's too much relief while you're doing this, your nut will be too low once you straighten it just a hair.
- take it slow - it's very easy to ruin a nut.
 

Walter Broes

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Oh, and while you have your nut files out!

Check the bridge radius.
-get the action/bridge height to where you like it, with the bridge body horizonal. Check for that with a ruler.
-put a capo on the first fret so the strings follow the fret radius, not the nut.
-put a ruler on top the 12th fret and measure the height of the bottom of each string. If they're equal, you're good.
-if the guitar shipped out with a 12" radius bridge for a 9.5" fretboard radius, your D and G strings will sit lower. In that case, carefully and slowly file the outer string slots until all the string heights match.
Again, go slow, measure in between with the strings tuned to pitch.
It's just as easy to ruin a bridge as it is to ruin a nut.
 

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Oh, and while you have your nut files out!

Check the bridge radius.
-get the action/bridge height to where you like it, with the bridge body horizonal. Check for that with a ruler.
-put a capo on the first fret so the strings follow the fret radius, not the nut.
-put a ruler on top the 12th fret and measure the height of the bottom of each string. If they're equal, you're good.
-if the guitar shipped out with a 12" radius bridge for a 9.5" fretboard radius, your D and G strings will sit lower. In that case, carefully and slowly file the outer string slots until all the string heights match.
Again, go slow, measure in between with the strings tuned to pitch.
It's just as easy to ruin a bridge as it is to ruin a nut.

will try this. thanks for the tips.
 

LesB3

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that's wild, but i think it's mis listed as a M-75. It's got a chinese serial and the tortoise pick guard. fwiw, i got this black one for about that amount.

also, did you file in the existing slots in the bridge for the bass strings or leave them as is? they're pretty shallow slots.
Nah. I won't do any of that stuff to any of my guitars -string changes and truss rod tweaks only for me. I know my limitations and the risk of doing harm is high.
 
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