chazmo
Super Moderator
My new Thalia TRCs are on their way. It'll be fun seeing which one looks best on the F-40
NGD - 2010 GSR F-40
- Thread starter chazmo
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chazmo
Super Moderator
My Thalia TRCs are in. These are done as laminations on top of some sort of base wood, as you can see below. Fascinating! Anyway, I'm probably going to go with the Indian rosewood (bottom middle) for the F-40. Love the Santos (top left) and koa (top right), though!
Bill Ashton
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I played...and played...Kim's at the last of our LMG gatherings, that F40 series are real
Bill Ashton
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(What happened to the last word?)...nice 
chazmo
Super Moderator
OK, here we go. New GSR F-40 saying "show me some love, Chaz..." You can see the grain crack in the Carpathian spruce on the bass side of the soundboard in pic #1. I may cleat this down the road.
TRC selection TBD. Probably go with the Indian rosewood (bottom).
Lookee at that beautiful bookmatched cocobolo. No center seam!
Boy, all that gold tuner jewelry, and no one but me will ever know it!
In this one, you'll notice that the bookmatched edges right by the neck block are visible.
Boy, ain't that a beautiful piece of coco?
TRC selection TBD.
Probably go with the Indian rosewood (bottom).Lookee at that beautiful bookmatched cocobolo. No center seam!
Boy, all that gold tuner jewelry, and no one but me will ever know it!
In this one, you'll notice that the bookmatched edges right by the neck block are visible.
Boy, ain't that a beautiful piece of coco?
davismanLV
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Charlie, that's one of the prettiest guitars I've seen in a long time!! That cocobolo is GEORGEOUS and the spruce is lovely as well. I like that it's not over decorated and just allows the beauty of the wood to come to the forefront!! STUNNING!!! Congrats on a rare and classy Guild!!!
p.s. - you should've figured a way to slip at least ONE FOOT into the photo..... LOL!!
p.s. - you should've figured a way to slip at least ONE FOOT into the photo..... LOL!!
wileypickett
Senior Member
Gorgeousity!
I'd get the crack cleated sooner than later -- they don't go away by themselves I've noticed.
Those Thalia TRCs look pretty good -- would it be unethical to put a G-shield TRC on s Chesterfield headstock guitar?!
I'd get the crack cleated sooner than later -- they don't go away by themselves I've noticed.
Those Thalia TRCs look pretty good -- would it be unethical to put a G-shield TRC on s Chesterfield headstock guitar?!
chazmo
Super Moderator
Thanks, guys. Glenn, I actually called Pete Maricle about this and he's not doing miscellaneous luthier work anymore as he's building his own guitars. His suggestion, as yours, was to get it cleated. As for G-shielding a Chesterfield... I don't know. To me it isn't sacrilege unless you put it on upside down. Tom, thanks. Couldn't agree more. The understated elegance of this guitar is just wonderful. Also, normally I'd hope to see something a little fancier for binding, but the solid ivoroid just looks beautiful to me.
I put a TRC on one of mine with the shield, but I'm not sure of it's going to stay, however, they look fine on a "just" Guild on top and also the chesterfield logo which I also did.
Ralph
Beautiful, chazmo! Wow!
I'm guessing you know Dave Dick from Union Music has his own shop now in Strubridge. Might be worth giving him a call if you are looking for someone. He does excellent work as you may know. He has worked on a few on my guitars over the years, and recently did some work on my '58 ES-225T.
walrus
I'm guessing you know Dave Dick from Union Music has his own shop now in Strubridge. Might be worth giving him a call if you are looking for someone. He does excellent work as you may know. He has worked on a few on my guitars over the years, and recently did some work on my '58 ES-225T.
walrus
chazmo
Super Moderator
Groty string are off:
Some signs of a little bit of stress at the end of the fingerboard... I've probably staved off any more of this with humidification (which I've been doing since I got it):
Well, we didn't know what electronics had been added to this... Glad to see it's a K&K pure mini.
Tail block, plus view of the scalloped top braces. And, now that I look at it I'm gratified to see that the top crack was already
braced. I'm super psyched to see that!!!!
In case there was any doubt...... Bond, James Bond....
Neck block:
A couple of interesting braced on the top branching out from the neck area
Cocobolo, baby!
Given the K&K, no one messed with the ebony bridge or the saddle (phew) during the electronics installation. Very nice and clean. Saddle is compensated bone.
Now using 4-ought wool to clean the fingerboard and fret wire before applying bore oil. This guitar has gotten very little use.
Some signs of a little bit of stress at the end of the fingerboard... I've probably staved off any more of this with humidification (which I've been doing since I got it):
Well, we didn't know what electronics had been added to this... Glad to see it's a K&K pure mini.
Tail block, plus view of the scalloped top braces. And, now that I look at it I'm gratified to see that the top crack was already
braced. I'm super psyched to see that!!!!
In case there was any doubt...... Bond, James Bond....
Neck block:
A couple of interesting braced on the top branching out from the neck area
Cocobolo, baby!
Given the K&K, no one messed with the ebony bridge or the saddle (phew) during the electronics installation. Very nice and clean. Saddle is compensated bone.
Now using 4-ought wool to clean the fingerboard and fret wire before applying bore oil. This guitar has gotten very little use.
D30Man
Senior Member
Super nice Chaz!!!
chazmo
Super Moderator
Well, the bridge was quite thirsty. I rubbed in a drop of bore oil and in 10 minutes it had been absorbed, so I put on another drop. The fretboard (3 drops) must've been treated once or twice and is behaving normally (as I've seen) for ebony -- which is to say that my small bottle of bore oil will probably last until I'm long in the grave. My 30+ year old vial of G&L guitar polish is likely to be the same.
chazmo
Super Moderator
OK, on to the finished product.
Fretboard in absorption mode for about 20 minutes. This was after application of about 3 drops of bore oil
This was the bridge on my second drop after it had basically absorbed the bore oil in 5 minutes or so...
Re-strung with D'Addario uncoated PB lights, polished, and re-TRCed (I made a new verb).
What do you think, guys?
Fretboard in absorption mode for about 20 minutes. This was after application of about 3 drops of bore oil
This was the bridge on my second drop after it had basically absorbed the bore oil in 5 minutes or so...
Re-strung with D'Addario uncoated PB lights, polished, and re-TRCed (I made a new verb).
What do you think, guys?
wileypickett
Senior Member
Love the pics!
Looks like the cleat was well done, grain orientation is opposite to the top grain, the way it should be. I'm not into internal pickups in acoustic guitars, but at least yours isn't an under-saddle, so no compromise of the acoustic sound.
Looks like the cleat was well done, grain orientation is opposite to the top grain, the way it should be. I'm not into internal pickups in acoustic guitars, but at least yours isn't an under-saddle, so no compromise of the acoustic sound.
chazmo
Super Moderator
^ Exactly, Glenn. Very happy to see that this work is already done and done properly!!!
And it's not an active pickup system without the internal preamp, so no worries about batteries bleeding or anything. I'm good to go!
And it's not an active pickup system without the internal preamp, so no worries about batteries bleeding or anything. I'm good to go!
GGJaguar
Reverential Member
That TRC rocks! I have a lot of G's in my name, so the more G's the better as far as I'm concerned.
The guitar is stunning in its final form!
Bill Ashton
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It is interesting that not only does it have a strap pin on the upper bout (my favorite place) but it is also the large
pin as used on my former Tacoma-built D-55 (may she rest in peace). This (new model) GSR F-40 was shown to us at LMG I, and it was also
discussed at that time (by Frank U.) that the policy was to be no strap buttons on plain acoustics and strap buttons on electro-acoustics...bizarre reasoning but whatever. When I bought my F512 several years later, no upper bout pin, and I actually had Kim install one...which by that time had changed to a smaller (gold, but not as nice). The replacement D55, with DTAR in it, did in fact have the strap pin, abeit the small one.
Show us your old G & L polish Chaz, so we can see Greg drool And given that you do not use much, be careful...I had a couple of Gibson bottles turn into naptha or some denatured petroleum over time...
pin as used on my former Tacoma-built D-55 (may she rest in peace). This (new model) GSR F-40 was shown to us at LMG I, and it was also
discussed at that time (by Frank U.) that the policy was to be no strap buttons on plain acoustics and strap buttons on electro-acoustics...bizarre reasoning but whatever. When I bought my F512 several years later, no upper bout pin, and I actually had Kim install one...which by that time had changed to a smaller (gold, but not as nice). The replacement D55, with DTAR in it, did in fact have the strap pin, abeit the small one.
Show us your old G & L polish Chaz, so we can see Greg drool
And given that you do not use much, be careful...I had a couple of Gibson bottles turn into naptha or some denatured petroleum over time...