New owner of a 1968 D-40

[Slotehog]

Hey all!

I came into an excellent shape 1968 D-40 by the way of a deceased relative. I have a few questions.

The only "problem" is that the headstock overlay has started to peel off along the edges. Should I attempt to glue it down? Will it affect the value if I do?

What is the estimated value?

The case it came in is a D'Andrea "Traveline" composite fiberboard hard case. I dont believe this is a Guild original. If it is not, I would like to find a period correct (or repro) Guild hardshell to better protect it. Any suggestions?

I can provide photos tomorrow.

Thanks!

Andy

 

[adorshki]

HI Andy, welcome aboard! Lotta D-40 love around here.

Overlay shrinkage is a common problem due the nature of the material, shrinks as it ages. I wouldn't glue it until a couple of other guys have a chance to advise. Seem to recall there are a couple of special techniques which can work.

I don't think a "good job" will affect value much but a bad one will definitely detract.

Re the case, suspect you're right, not original. I think the Guild hardshell cases from the period had identifying badging on 'em.

Looking forward to pics!

 

[Slotehog]

Here are some photos.

 

[walrus]

Wow! Beautiful guitar! Congratulations!

walrus

 

[GGJaguar]

Welcome to LTG! Great looking D-40! Congrats!

 

[JohnG.]

Wow, Very nice. If you want to sell it please pm me.

 

[Heath]

Interesting that they already added the chesterfield in ‘68. (My ‘66 does not have it)

 

[Cougar]

Welcome to LTG! That old F40 looks to be in excellent shape, notwithstanding the headstock (which you may not want to do anything to). A quick check of reverb.com's sold listings suggest it could be worth $2,000-$3,000.

 

[Uke]

Great! Channeling that Richie Havens vibe!

 

[fronobulax]

Welcome.

I would leave the overlay alone. It can be hard to repair and to a knowledgeable buyer a botched or noticeable repair will devalue the instrument more than the shrinkage. IMO

 

[HeyMikey]

Congratulations. She looks like a real beauty! The top has some lovely silking across the grain. Make sure it is properly humidified in the case.

I can’t tell completely from the photo but the saddle appears very low and the bridge pin holes have been slotted a bit. Depending where the action/ string height is that might indicate it is in need of or close to needing a neck reset to re-establish the correct neck angle.

If needed it would be well worth doing to this guitar for optimum playability and tone. If you know how to measure action at the 12th and can provide angled close-ups of the strings coming over bridge/saddle that would help.

If it does need work we know just the guy to send this old gal to.

 

[SFIV1967]

The headstock overlay is made from Celluloid which shrinks over time. So there is not much you can do. You would have to remove all tuners and you can glue it and clamp it and it would last for some years again. There is celluloid glue for accordions for instance that can be used. But if done wrongly the glue might leak out during clamping, penetrate the good finish of the headstock and destroy it where the glue comes in contact. So it could look worse afterwards... So yes, glueing can be done (but it needs to be clamped for some days as warped celluloid is very tough to bring into a flat shape again).

The below two pictures are from our member fixit, who is a luthier in Florida (Jacobs Custom Guitars) and worked in the Westerly factory. That was a 1967 Starfire IV he restored.

Some luthiers (Dave Petillo in the below picture) or even the former Guild Nashville custom shop repaired such extremely warped celluloid veneers on '60s headstocks by using a new black ebony wood veneer but you need a new Guild inlay which is not available unless somebody custom makes it. If done correctly the results look good afterwards and Guilds are not '59 Lea Pauls value wise...

Ralf

 

[Westerly Wood]

Why not just leave it all as is?

Nice Hoboken D40!

 

[SFIV1967]

Why not just leave it all as is?

Agreed. Certainly the best advise!
Ralf

 

[davismanLV]

In 1968 do you think it was still made in Hoboken, or had they moved the D-40's to Westerly by then? Just wondering, is all....

 

[Slotehog]

Thanks for the info!

The action is between 3/8" and 1/4" for the 6th string at the 12th fret. It is 1/2" from the body to the 6th string and 7/16" to the 1st string at the saddle/bridge. I don't have a more precise measuring device than my trusty grade school ruler. I also don't know what the action should be or how to properly adjust it.

Regardless, It has a beautiful sound and I am quite happy with it.

 

[JohnG.]

In 1968 do you think it was still made in Hoboken, or had they moved the D-40's to Westerly by then? Just wondering, is all....

From my understanding They did make some in Hoboken in 1968. They also made them in Westerly in 1968. Hans would know by the serial number. Where ever it was made it looks very nice.

 

[Westerly Wood]

In 1968 do you think it was still made in Hoboken, or had they moved the D-40's to Westerly by then? Just wondering, is all....

so true, could be a westerly but with a left over Hoboken sticker lol

 

[JohnG.]

Thanks for the info!

The action is between 3/8" and 1/4" for the 6th string at the 12th fret. It is 1/2" from the body to the 6th string and 7/16" to the 1st string at the saddle/bridge. I don't have a more precise measuring device than my trusty grade school ruler. I also don't know what the action should be or how to properly adjust it.

Regardless, It has a beautiful sound and I am quite happy with it.

1/4 to 3/8 at the 12th fret 6th string is kinda high action. If you play cowboy chords its probably ok. I would take it for a set up and see what the luthiers says.

 

[mushroom]

I scanned down and looked at the photos first and thought wow, this has got binding!

Then I read the initial post.....