Modified Guild S300D, can it be saved?

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Hi everyone,

Recently, an S300D popped up in my area—close, but not that close—so I haven't had the chance to see it in person yet and I'm trying to investigate through the photos. I've been in love with this model for a long time, but it's so rare that you practically never see it around here (Italy). From what I can deduce, it seems quite modified. The bridge and nut are obviously not original, but I also fear that the pickups have been replaced. All the other S300Ds I've seen online have white-coiled DiMarzios, while these are black. Do you think it's still worth trying to restore it (the price is decent), or should I just move on?

Thanks to anyone who can help!


s300d.jpg
 

matsickma

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I wouldn't worry about restoring it. That Kahler type bridge can be tweaked and the locking nut keep it in tune.

Only decide about the pickups. It likely had HB1 on it originally and a higher gain "dirtier" set of SD's were installed. They may not sound much different from the beige colored DiMarzio Super Distortion bridge and PAF neck pickups many S300 had.
Adding HB1 would be my only consideration for a change but given the sky-rocketing price of HB1 I would suggest adding reissued HB1 or HB2 pups.

I can't read the marking on the TRC so I am just assuming it came stock with HB1's. The pickup bezels are stock with the extra center hole drilled in to allow installing the SD pups.
BTW...I do prefer HB1 pups on the all mahogany body version of the S300.

Good luck!
 
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I also have this picture where I can read "S300-D," so I figured it originally had DiMarzios. The only problem I have with the Kahler is that it looks ugly (imho) :), and I'd rather look for a diagonal Guild stoptail. But those tails are skyrocketing too, I'm afraid, right?
thanks for all the info! 🙏
1722359055511.png
 

GAD

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Can it be restored? Yes. Will it look like new? No, unless a lot of work is done to re-finish the holes and marks left by the Kahler. Does that matter? Up to you.

Those are not the original pickups but they're not hard to find.
 

matsickma

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Update...being a "D" model yes it had the beige DiMarzio's stock from the factory and not HB1's that I assumed.

Since the guitar is painted black a good refinish could undue the Kahler cutout and return it's looks.
So if it is a "keeper" and you invest the time and money for you own use them ok. If being viewed as an investment I wouldn't do a refinish and part replacement. ROI wouldn't be worth it.
I suggest you purchase a set of chrome humbuckers surrounds for the pickups. That will balance out the chrome of the Kahler and consider knobs with chrome inserts or chromed metal knobs for Vol and Tone. That arrangement of chrome against the black body may look pretty cool.
 

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Anarchris

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If the price was right I would absolutely buy it ! A set of correct Dimarzios direct from Dimarzio, a tail piece from the Guild site and a tune o matic type bridge and you'd have an excellent player ! The extra holes from the Kahler could be addressed at a later time



 

GAD

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The NS parts are nickel and the original Westerly parts are chrome. I also have no idea if they match dimensionally.
 

matsickma

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That Kahler likely has a 3" long x 2" wide x 0.5" deep block of wood removed from the front of that guitar. So filling it in may take some wood working skill.
 

Anarchris

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The NS parts are nickel and the original Westerly parts are chrome. I also have no idea if they match dimensionally.
I actually prefer nickel plating for looks and it seems to hold up better but I see your point ... they are different

I guess I was just saying , if it could be had at the right price it wouldn't take much to get it up and running as a killer player.
 
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If the price was right I would absolutely buy it ! A set of correct Dimarzios direct from Dimarzio, a tail piece from the Guild site and a tune o matic type bridge and you'd have an excellent player ! The extra holes from the Kahler could be addressed at a later time



thanks so much for the links, great to know Guild sells that part directly!
 
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That Kahler likely has a 3" long x 2" wide x 0.5" deep block of wood removed from the front of that guitar. So filling it in may take some wood working skill.
Yep, that's what I feared the most, thanks for the info!
 

GAD

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I actually prefer nickel plating for looks and it seems to hold up better but I see your point ... they are different

I guess I was just saying , if it could be had at the right price it wouldn't take much to get it up and running as a killer player.

I don't have one in-hand, but I'd also be willing to bet that the new tailpiece doesn't look exactly the same and probably doesn't have the same dimensions. That may not matter to most people but it would drive me nuts. I'm tempted to buy one and do a writeup of them side-by-side even if it proves my assumptions wrong.
 

Anarchris

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I don't have one in-hand, but I'd also be willing to bet that the new tailpiece doesn't look exactly the same and probably doesn't have the same dimensions. That may not matter to most people but it would drive me nuts. I'm tempted to buy one and do a writeup of them side-by-side even if it proves my assumptions wrong.
Lol , that wouldn't drive me crazy but I totally get it :D Now I'm curious
I'm home now recovering from a surgery , bored , so I measured a '75 block and '99 DeArmond ( which doesn't tell us anything:ROFLMAO:) and they are identical. The one on the site doesn't look different aside from being nickel plated and I believe the string spacing has to be the same . Looking at examples of NS models I'm betting they're the same . Of course I'm guessing. I'd be interested in what you find ... if you do a comparison
 

mushroom

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Now I thought one of these was a Guild and one was a Dearmond but I could be wrong and I have no idea on the age of either.

They are clearly different sizes though.

Just to confuse things 🙂



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Anarchris

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@mushroom The one on the right (yours)is most likely the DeArmond . I just put mine side by side and the DeArmond is a hair wider and the angles are slightly different ... if you line up the channels on top they're quite close .
Going by my guitars ,Guild uses #10 oval head screws while DeArmond uses a #8 flat head . A #10 will easily slide through the DeArmond block
The two I have are 100% interchangeable. But that still doesn't help with the NS blocks :ROFLMAO: Hope I didn't veer too far , I'm just stuck at home :)
 

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mushroom

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@mushroom The one on the right (yours)is most likely the DeArmond . I just put mine side by side and the DeArmond is a hair wider and the angles are slightly different ... if you line up the channels on top they're quite close .
Going by my guitars ,Guild uses #10 oval head screws while DeArmond uses a #8 flat head . A #10 will easily slide through the DeArmond block
The two I have are 100% interchangeable. But that still doesn't help with the NS blocks :ROFLMAO: Hope I didn't veer too far , I'm just stuck at home :)
Ohh I don’t think you can veer too far here 🙂
 
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