M70 vibrato install

[parker_knoll]

So after my lengthy vibrato experiment on a sacrificial DeArmond M65, I finally fitted one to the Guild M70 which is my number one player for the last year or so. Apologies for quick and dirty phone pics.

This is the Duesenberg unit. I can peel off the little D logo if i decide I don't like it.

PROS

• Functionally a really good unit. Slightly looser than a Bigsby with a wider range up and down.
• I think the aesthetics match the guitar
• The adjustable arm is great: tightness, height, angle, length, all adjustable. This means I can get it to nestle just under my pinky while palm muting

CONS

• Only available in nickel and the rest of the guitar hardware is chrome. Nickel is rather yellower than chrome in the flesh. There is an Alu version but the arm and arm attachment knob are still nickel on that one so I thought it would be worse!

The guitar is going for a refinish soon - there are flaws and chips on the current finish, it's very yellowed plus I really don't go for this "Fifties" car colours anyway. Will go for something like a black sparkle or silverburst.

The install for this is just four small screws so it's basically reversible if I don't like it as the holes would be covered by the refin. The break angle could be sharper if I moved it further toward the bridge but so far I'm happy with the sound.

 

[parker_knoll]

So my G string is coming back sharp with more enthusiastic vibrato use. I'll smooth and lubricate the slot in the nut. Any other tips?

 

[Nuuska]

Lubricating seems to be more problem than solution. While enabling the string to slide more easily towards tuning pegs at whammy down - it still has enough friction to prevent them sliding back the same amount. In perfect guitar there would be no friction over saddle and nut.

So IF the bridge behaves perfectly - or even near - then I see nut lock as next stage. Maybe one that would use the TCR-hole for screw - so it would be reversible. Surely one of the available aftermarket nutlocks could be modified.


Like this one - just drill one hole where the TRC screw is located.

Schaller Locking Nut Right R3 GO

Locking Nut Schaller No.: 13120503, Can be fixed to the guitar neck from the back or the front side, Comes fully prepared for installation without requiring any further treatment to the wood or steel screws, Dimensions (L x W x H): 42.9 x 15.5 x...

www.thomann.de

Unfortunately this specific one is goldplated - but surely it demonstrates my idea. No new holes on guitar - just some removing of metal from the new part.

 

[F312]

Lubricating seems to be more problem than solution. While enabling the string to slide more easily towards tuning pegs at whammy down - it still has enough friction to prevent them sliding back the same amount. In perfect guitar there would be no friction over saddle and nut.

So IF the bridge behaves perfectly - or even near - then I see nut lock as next stage. Maybe one that would use the TCR-hole for screw - so it would be reversible. Surely one of the available aftermarket nutlocks could be modified.


Like this one - just drill one hole where the TRC screw is located.

Schaller Locking Nut Right R3 GO

Locking Nut Schaller No.: 13120503, Can be fixed to the guitar neck from the back or the front side, Comes fully prepared for installation without requiring any further treatment to the wood or steel screws, Dimensions (L x W x H): 42.9 x 15.5 x...

www.thomann.de

Unfortunately this specific one is goldplated - but surely it demonstrates my idea. No new holes on guitar - just some removing of metal from the new part.

Who would have thunk?

 

[Nuuska]

I

 

[LeFinPepere]

"Lubricating seems to be more problem than solution." No comment....

 

[parker_knoll]

I'm not about to put a locking nut on the poor thing!

I'll take it in for a bit nut work and also try the Nut Sauce