Is this an F50R?

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Hi,

I have an opportunity to buy a vintage 1973 Guild for approx. 1400 dollars (in Danish crowns). It's used and worn but the neck is fine, action is nice, and the tone is out of this world (the tuners are floundering, however, and would need to be changed).

Now I need your help. It's jumbo-sized and supposedly F50R (that's what the vignette inside says). But see the picture - the inlays are only dot and the pickguard is simple black plastic. Is this a downgraded version? Any tips.

Is it worth the money?

I will be so grateful for answers.

Thank you.
 

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fronobulax

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Welcome. I have no idea but I would also expect different inlays. More pictures would help. Headstock front, and back close enough the read the serial number. Close up of the label.

The headstock "decoration" may help identify it better, the serial number should confirm the date and if the serial numbers are different then there is a mystery to be solved.
 
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Welcome. I have no idea but I would also expect different inlays. More pictures would help. Headstock front, and back close enough the read the serial number. Close up of the label.

The headstock "decoration" may help identify it better, the serial number should confirm the date and if the serial numbers are different then there is a mystery to be solved.

Thank you. Unfortunately, I didn't take more pics in the shop, and can return there only on Tuesday when I also have to make the choice, as I am leaving Denmark the next day.

The headstock logo is exactly this (though not bound).

The serial number began I think with an 8... and it was 4 digits I think... but not sure now. Anyway the sound blew me away.

1624109779100.png
 

GardMan

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I'm guessing it's a JF-50R...

My understanding is that the JF-50R was basically a F-50R with a little less bling. According to Beesely's book, made between 1987 and 1989.

Edit: ...but the JF-50R should have the inlaid GUILD and Chesterfield logo, not the G-shield.
 
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geoguy

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Can the seller send you a photo of the headstock & the label?

The dot inlays on the neck appear to be larger diameter than I would have expected.
 
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Can the seller send you a photo of the headstock & the label?

The dot inlays on the neck appear to be larger diameter than I would have expected.

I'll try asking. The serial number was 8xxxx I believe (which seems to fit the 1970s)

You are right about the dot inlays.

Perhaps they have changed the fingerboard (that would be stupid with the gorgeous original inlays, but who knows what happened to them during the past 50 years). I also think it's not real Ebony but fiberboard or something similar.
 
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The headstock is, I am certain, this, with G-shield - but I think without the binding (the neck is not bound).

1624113410667.png
 

chazmo

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I'd guess the neck & headstock have been replaced then. An F-50/F-50R should have a bound, G-shielded headstock and bound neck with block and triangle inlays and the "railroad tracks" on the fretboard.

Still could be a great guitar, but realize that it's not in original condition.
 
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I'd guess the neck & headstock have been replaced then. An F-50/F-50R should have a bound, G-shielded headstock and bound neck with block and triangle inlays and the "railroad tracks" on the fretboard.

Still could be a great guitar, but realize that it's not in original condition.

Thank you very much! I think this might actually be a leverage for bargaining :).

I think you are right, but certainly, if the new neck is new, it's from a different Guild (it has the G-Shield).
 

adorshki

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I'd guess the neck & headstock have been replaced then. An F-50/F-50R should have a bound, G-shielded headstock and bound neck with block and triangle inlays and the "railroad tracks" on the fretboard.
100% agreement, or maybe just the fretboard and headstock overlay.

could be a great guitar, but realize that it's not in original condition.
Been combing the dusty cobwebs of my memory for any potential "G-shield" headstocks without binding, and on a "dot" neck to boot?
Can only think of the DV52 with dot ebony board, but those were mounted on necks with narrow "snakehead" headstocks with chesterfield.

We did see another mid '70's F50R whose neck binding had been removed and replaced with ebony, just recently, but that was all..

Hi,

I have an opportunity to buy a vintage 1973 Guild for approx. 1400 dollars (in Danish crowns). It's used and worn but the neck is fine, action is nice, and the tone is out of this world (the tuners are floundering, however, and would need to be changed).

Now I need your help. It's jumbo-sized and supposedly F50R (that's what the vignette inside says). But see the picture - the inlays are only dot and the pickguard is simple black plastic. Is this a downgraded version? Any tips.

Is it worth the money?

I will be so grateful for answers.

Thank you.
Welcome aboard torpedo!

Suspect fingerboard at least was replaced. An F50R neck should have a centerstrip, should look like this:
1978-guild-f-50r-natural-in-excellent-fmkwkrg.jpg

If it doesn't have that centerstrip, then it's not an F50R neck, and to be frank, I'd move on. A replaced fretboard I could live with, but necks are a huge part of Guild's playability, and without a genuine Guild neck I'd say value is reduced to maybe half of current market values, if not even less.

Inside, however, is clear F50R made in 1973.
Dates were never shown on label, if it's on there, it was added. At that time, date might have been found stamped on a top brace.

Do this: Verify s/n on label and headstock match.
Send s/n to Hans Moust at his website http://www.guitarchives.nl/guitarsgalore/ for the most authoritative answer on whether that s/n was an F50R; he actually has a database of guitars he's seen or had reported to him, as well as production records from Westerly.

What's interesting is that fretboard appears to have the correct "radiused corners" at the end, even though lacking any other inlays normally found on the ebony boards. So it wouldn't surprise me if it was replaced with a factory "blank" and the dots added at that time.

Re headstock overlay: Overlays were in fact made of a fiberboard material at the time, and it would be pretty easy (for a professional repair person) to salvage the G-shield and logo from the original overlay and inlay 'em into the new overlay, and just leave off the binding, since neck doesn't have it either.

We've even seen "new old stock" examples of both fretboards and overlays come up on the internet as old luthier stashes come up for sale.

Plastic pickguard is correct, too. Overall, beginning to suspect the guitar had what appears (from the one photo) to be some good quality repair work.

Not too sure about the $1400.00 price tag in that situation, though. Hopefully some other European members can offer some insight there.

I'd think it's a little high for US market, but there definitely seems to be a scarcity premium in Europe for vintage Guilds in general.
 
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Thank you very much, this is so helpful. I am now thinking about letting this guitar go - I was tempted mostly because it has a really excellent tone and decent playability, and the price tag, which is considerably lower than other good brands in this country (the only other Guild I found, but in a much better condition, is a D-35 for 2000 bucks)
 
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bobouz

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Looks to my old eyes like the bridge has been shaved down.

It would be wise to check the neck angle on this guitar.
 

SFIV1967

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The serial number began I think with an 8... and it was 4 digits I think... but not sure now.
8xxxx (but 5 digits in total) would be indeed 1973.

Dates were never shown on label, if it's on there, it was added.
Not completely correct. Dates were indeed stamped on the label in 1972 and maybe also 1973. See Hans book page 29.

Or here a Dec 14th 1972 one:

1624994026631.png

Ralf
 
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8xxxx (but 5 digits in total) would be indeed 1973.

Not completely correct. Dates were indeed stamped on the label in 1972 and maybe also 1973. See Hans book page 29.

Ralf

The date is stamped (in little black font) on the label, as you say.
 
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