Is Price Way Out!

[nanccinut]

My D-35 1983 Westerly Guild which has always had poor action from day one off the wall may be going in for surgery. Got a call last night from a local luthier after e-mailing him. He asked me some saddle heights above the bridge and string heights on the twelvth fret.He said to save a even more expensive neck reset it would cost me $250.00 Canadian to fix the problem . What he declared over the phone is that the bridge must be removed,shaved and re-glued and all the frets dressed to make the action playable. Have read since this is the worst thing I should do and that a reset is the only proper cure. Would it be $300 for a reset? If you run a 24 inch straight edge down middle of A and D strings towards the saddle, the leading edge hits about 1/8" below the front of the bridge.This I have read means a reset is needed. The offset Tusq saddle is only about 1/8" max above bridge on low -E side and 3/16 on high -E. Due to a bit extra slotting there is some not bad break angle which is a bit of positive in this poorly set up mess! The neck appears straight with full tention on it. What would you do -another opinion ?
thanks in advance -nanccinut

 

[wright1]

Nanc, I think you should ask yourself why your luthier is not considering a reset(other than saving you money?). 1/8 below the bridge suggests something needs doing but a shave and dress may not be the way to go. I shaved the bridge on my GF60 a good number of years ago after a long trans Atlantic call to Guild in Westerly and after going through all the options with a nice man there, went for that option. Guild bridges usually have enough thickness to stand shaving but I would try to avoid it if possible. I didn't remove mine,I shaved it in situ. I fitted a JLD a while back to help keep the top from raising too much and I wonder if this may be a factor. Without seeing the instrument it is hard to know how everything is. Maybe you need to get a second opinion. Dressing the frets takes them down even if only by a fraction. Maybe if taller frets were suggested I might understand the bridge shave but correcting the 1/8 and a lower fret profile is going to take a fair bit off the bridge. Is there a authorised Guild repairer in your area? I would take things slowly and build up a body of opinion before having any work done. If this instrument has been a problem for a good while then it would be nice to spend your hard earned on a long lasting fix.It is sometimes too easy to jump in and reset a neck. There have been too many done that didn't need doing because the root problem was elsewhere,but it is always a case of knowing what is wrong and applying the right fix for the long term.A neck reset is major surgery but if that is what is wrong then I would want to be sure.Get the instrument looked at in the flesh. I don't know any luthier who would/could tell you what he is going to do without actually seeing the instrument.

 

[chazmo]

Nanci,

I think a second opinion is a great idea. If you don't really know/trust this luthier yet, there's no harm in getting your local music store or some other independent luthier to look it over. And I agree with wright... there's no way anyone can know exactly what's needed for your baby without looking it over closely; the luthier you spoke to is just guessing, based on experience. Nothing wrong with that, but don't take it as gospel by any means.

I also think that if you're unhappy with the action of the D-35 that you definitely should have the work done on it. You will kick yourself repeatedly once you get the guitar back and wonder to yourself why you didn't do it sooner.

 

[nanccinut]

Thanks both of you for your input. My local lad I have used says at this time he doesn't think either a neck reset or bridge shave off the bottom is in order. He thinks the high-E-side is fine but I can hear a tiny bit of buzzing in the middle fret area which may mean a tiny trust rod adjustment. On the low- E he does agree its high but he thinks we still have a more material there that can be removed which will drop the action to a more easy play he is certain. He also said the intonation was excellent on a quick check of harmonics down the fretboard. Also asked him to sound check the pick-up wire under the saddle which can be very finikee if not 100% down tight in the bottom of the slot.Also he said way down the road he may have to remove some material of the bridge but not off the bottom. He said it will not be removed at all off the guitar but he could reslot the saddle depth if nessasary leaving the perfect still glue job untouched. His price compared to the other lads $250.00 was $30.00 so left it with him and should have back by the weekend with a huge smile on my face for now till its time to do the bridge surgery thing. Will let you know if I got my monies worth for now. If ITS ONLY MARGINAL ,may have to go that extra mile. -nanccinut

 

[chazmo]

[ ... ] If ITS ONLY MARGINAL ,may have to go that extra mile. -nanccinut

nancy, that's great. I bet you'll like the results with just these minor adjustments. And, I totally agree, if it's not good enough, OK you try something else. You really don't need to start with the whole enchilada.

Good luck!

 

[nanccinut]

Thanks for the support. With luck I will be doing some picking and huge grinning by the weekend and at $30.00 almost for free.. :wink: .....nanccinut

 

[Ross]

Hi nanccinut:

What part of the country are you in? Perhaps we could suggest a place where you could get a second (third, fourth etc) opinion.

cheers
R

 

[nanccinut]

Hi Ross -I am in Peterborough Ont Canada where they say like on the old tv show "everyone knows your name" at least when your talking guitar luthiers as you hear good,bad and augly about repair work. Also who overcharges when the dollar is tight seems to travel around these parts. So $30.00 to make the Guild more playable and get the tricky pick-up wire under the saddle even volume it sounds like a steal for now till someday material will need be removed off the top of the bridge leving the original gluing untouched which he says is vital when possible. Guess a re-laquer of the bridge would need be done after removing top material and re-depth of the saddle slot with a tiny proper router jig he tells me he has. -nanccinut

 

[Ross]

Sounds like a bargain indeed! Let us know how it turns out.

cheers
R

 

[nanccinut]

Will let you know how things go for sure :!: Nice to see another CANNUK on the site Ross who appreciates a well set up axe. -nanccinut

 

[taabru45]

Hi Nancy, from the West coast....I went to grade 3 in Madoc....now there is a small town. I'll drop you a note if I get out your way, this summer/fall I hope. Steffan

 

[nanccinut]

Got the Guild back and its a lot easier play on the low -E side but not much break angle over the low -E saddle touch point. He said when time comes for drastic adjustment he would leave the bridge on the guitar and remove a bit of excess material off the top of the bridge. He said best not disturb the original glue job if all is in perfect shape as it is. Then would have to re-laqure the top of the bridge and route the slot a bit deeper. For now all is well and Iam picking and grinning once again. :wink: :wink: -nanccinut

 

[Ross]

Good news! We all appreciate a low-cost way to restore playability

cheers
R