interested in the Guild GAD-50

[rabies]

Hi I'm rabies from the boogie board.

So I have a Yamaha FG735S acoustic that I actually like a lot (yeah, I know, it's a cheapo but I'm mostly an electric player and it actually sounds and looks very decent). The low E string peg head broke off while I was changing strings and it's stuck in there (yes, I tried the hand with quarter in the soundhole push method - didn't work b/c like an idiot I hammered the pin into the body of the guitar hoping it would go thru - so then I drilled it and that didn't work either). Any ideas on how to fix this?

Anyways, I found out about he Guild GAD-50 and MF has a good deal right now on the amber burst which looks really trippy to me. has this guitar and/or color been discontinued?

I've read many good reviews about this guitar and for the price it seems like a really good value (esp. with a case!) Are there any noteworthy models coming out in Winter Namm this year that we should be aware of?

Also, does this peg head breaking off happen with Guilds? I noticed that Ovation and Takamine use a different method for attaching the strings to the saddle which eliminates the pegs. But then, even the high priced Martins use the pegs.

Where can I find the best deal on the GAD-50? I don't mind buying used or new. thx.

 

[rabies]

BTW, I was also looking at these guitars as well in the sub $1K price range:

Blueridge BR-163 Historic Series 000 Acoustic Guitar Natural - Natural

Epiphone Masterbilt EF-500RA Acoustic Guitar Natural Satin Gold Hardware - Natural Satin Gold Hardware

Martin Custom D Classic Mahogany Acoustic Guitar

 

[cjd-player]

Hi rabies. Welcome to the forum.

Sorry to hear about the problem with your Yamaha. The part you are talking about is actually called a bridge pin. Drilling it would have been my first recommendation, but you've already done that. My guess is that by hammering it in from the top, you probably splintered out some wood at the bottom of the bridge or bridge plate (a part inside the guitar under the bridge). Those splinters are probably wedged against the pin preventing it from being pushed back up through the top. You probably want to take it to a luthier for a repair at this point.

You could keep driling with larger drill bits until it becomes loose enough to remove, but by then you will have probably enlarged the bridge pin hole. That means you will need a larger bridge pin to work in that hole in the future, possibly custom made. So that is why I would let a luthier do the repair.

I don't know of any guitar that would be prone to that as long as the proper size bridge pins are used. If a wrong size bridge pin is used in any guitar it could become stuck like yours.

Ovations and others have pinless bridges. In my experience, not necessarily better or worse. I don't think the method of string attachment is a major factor in the tone of the guitar (see more on tone below). Pinless bridges put more stress on the bridge-to-top glue joint; whereas with bridge pins, the strings pull against the bridge plate.

Several folks on this forum have been impressed with the Guild GAD models. But some have reported on some duds as well. I think the best advise is to not shop by brand. Pick the individual guitar that sounds and plays the best for you.

I've never played one, but I've read some good reviews about the Blueridge and Epiphone Mastrerbuilts for low-medium-priced guitars. Again, it comes down to the individual guitar.

Most of an acoustic guitar's tone comes from the piece of top wood, with the type of back and side woods contributing sound color as well. Even a low-priced guitar can sometimes be built with a very musical top, and sound very good.

 

[Scratch]

Have you considered a vintage Guild? hard to go wrong with a vintage D25 and you can usually find them on eBay/Gbase etc. for 500 - 700...

 

[rabies]

thanks for the replies. i'm new to guild (currently have an ibanez rg1570 and epi elitist lp) and usually buy blind :shock: from MF. If I don't like it, I can return it no questions asked.

I wonder how much it would cost to fix my yamaha...

 

[wright1]

Sorry to hear about your problem with the bridge pin. Hammering it in was never going to work. We all learn by our mistakes and you will never do that again WILL YOU!! Solution. CJD is right to suggest taking it to a luthier. You may be able to drill it out yourself. Measure the bottom diameter of another pin taken from your bridge.That measurement is not the largest size but is about the largest size that will pass through the bridge without changing the taper of the hole. By hand, drill into the centre of what is left of the pin to create a centre for the following drils to use. By drilling with a hand drill you reduce the risk of slipping and drifting into the wood. Start with the smallest drill possible and work up to the largest you measured earlier. Take your time. Do not rush. You may find that the pin will come loose earlier but since you gave it a whack that may not happen. Your pins may have a slot cut in them and the danger is that the drill will be drawn to the slot and start tearing into the wood. If at any point you feel it doing that STOP. Go straight to luthier. If all this sounds too much,bite the bullet, spend the cash,take it to a luthier who will tell you how he/she will remove the pin.Even though it is 'just' a Yamaha don't take it to a chain store who think they can fix the instruments they sell. There are too many horror stories. Don't lie,tell them you hammered it in. Be humble and thank God you didn't split the whole bridge and top.
As for the GADs, they are just like any mass produced guitar. The lads are right to suggest that you have to pick a good one but look at everything in your price range. You may find a gem from anyone.Do look at a good used Guild in your price range.
Best of luck, Steve. PS price will depend on how much if any damage you have done. Get a quote but I dont think it will cost you a arm and a leg!

 

[GardMan]

Or this one G-37s are nice sounding guitars, and the price is good (we'll all vouch for the sellers character)...

Depending on how much damage you did to the bridge or top with the hammer and drill, I wouldn't expect a fix to be too expensive. Could you push it out with a long reach C-clamp... one side of jaw on the pin end inside, the other on the bridge outside (just clear of the broken pin/hole)?

 

[Taylor Martin Guild]

I had a GAD JF-48 in Amber Burst.
I sold it because I couldn't get used to the color after I recieved the guitar via UPS.

The sound of the guitar was very good and the craftmanship was top notch.

With the return policy from MF, you will have little risk in ordering a GAD D-50 from them.
I don't think that it has a pick guard on it so look at getting a nice custom guard installed. [You can do it yourself.]
You may also want to have a luthier set it up for you, if it is hard to play or if the intonation is off.

Let us know what you wind up getting,
TMG.

 

[kitniyatran]

That's why I don't like plastic bridge pins; I've had them break before, too. Fortunately, I got them out & replaced with something durable. Replaced the ones on my D25 with bone on principle/preventive maintenance.
MF can have good deals, but you can usually get more bang for the buck with vintage/used.
Gotta love a D25!

 

[taabru45]

Don't know for sure but it might also be worth checking out those units that mechanics use to remove bolts that have sheared off. Drilling or the C clamp with a block on either side of the hole on top, to prevent blocking the pin from hitting anything, makes sense to me too. A good luthier is 1st choice I'd thinlk. Steffan

 

[rabies]

the natural version doesn't appear to have a pick guard, the other two do.

 

[marcellis]

Personally, I like that Amber Burst.
At $699, it's a heck of a deal, AFAIC.

 

[dklsplace]

The GAD-50 is my fav out of all the line I've been able to play. Don't think I've played a 50 that was a dud yet.

Blueridge guitars are great instruments! I've had a few through my shop & still have a BR-343 that I've used lightly on a few gigs. FYI, the GAD line & Blueridge guitars come out of the same plant in China.

Regarding the bridge pin on the Yamaha. If it's a plastic pin I'd try to drill it out a bit more as suggested previously. As a last resort, (if plastic) I'd use my soldering iron & melt it through after drilling it further. But only if it goes through quickly so you're not applying heat to the area for more than a few seconds.

 

[atticus119]

Hello, good luck with your search. One thing is that you're sort of comparing apples to oranges here. The Blueridge and the Epi you mention are both rosewood OM size guitars, whereas the GAD 50 is a rosewood dreadnought. The Blueridge and GAD will have a 1-11/16" nut width, the Epi will have 1-3/4. All wonderful in their own ways, but the size question is one you should consider. The GAD that most closely resembles the Blueridge and the Epi would be the GAD 30R, which is the Guild GAD line's OM size in rosewood.

IMO, you'll get more bang for your buck with the Guild GAD or the Epi. Blueridge charges a premium for rosewood over and above what the others do, without a commensurate increase in quality (again, IMO).

Best, Rick

EDIT: Sorry, forgot about the Martin. That will be a laminate back and sides guitar, so in many ways a step down in quality from the other three you're considering. That said, it's also American made, so that counts for something for many people.

 

[rabies]

hey thx for the replies. which martin, btw?