HELP! Neck Reset on a Vintage Guild D44

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Every luthier I contact turns down my first-year 1965 D44. Thy say the don't know if the neck is attached in a Martin-like manner.
Anyone here know about such things. It's a great guitar but it desperately needs a rest. Big thanks!
 

geoguy

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Welcome . . . also, if you share your geographic location someone might suggest a suitable repair person close to your area (in case you don't want to ship your guitar).
 

kostask

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Every luthier I contact turns down my first-year 1965 D44. Thy say the don't know if the neck is attached in a Martin-like manner.
Anyone here know about such things. It's a great guitar but it desperately needs a rest. Big thanks!

You haven't been contacting very good luthiers then (not an insult to you, but to them). Any luthier can easily do a little bit of digging around and find out that Guilds use a dovetail joint, just as Gibsons and Martins do. They may not want to deal with the perceived issues with the way that the finish is applied in the neck/body joint area, but that is something that they should be up front about, and not make excuses like the ones they made in your post.

Whoever you choose to go with, stay with them, as the luthier's that you have contacted are not to be trusted.
 

Bill G

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Paul Livoti of Guitar ER reset my D-4 and did a spectacular job. He's in Vero Beach, FL.

 

Stagefright

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I hope I live long enough to see the neck reset craze come to an end. I'll never understand breaking one of the strongest joints on the assembly to solve a problem elsewhere on the guitar.

Based on the luthiers reluctance to do the neck reset, I would question everything he said. Kostask nails it with his response.

If it plays well, enjoy it. If it's a 64th or two off at the 12th fret, is that worth breaking a critical glue joint?
 

Heath

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why would you assume the problem is elsewhere? I had a 66 D40 that needed a reset. Also some old Yamahas. (One of the Yamaha’s you could literally stick a pencil between the strings and the fretboard at the 12th). I don’t know where you think the problem could’ve been fixed easier (bridge was not lifting, saddle was as low as it can go….). 50 years of string tension can change the neck angle. Especially if it’s a twelve string.
 

fronobulax

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Welcome. Neck resets can generate a lot of opinions :) If you'd like some of them, describe the problem you think you are trying to address or fix.

I would hope the the luthiers who were unwilling to do any research are so busy that they don't need your business.
 

davismanLV

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Tommy, as has been mentioned, let us know where in the world you are and you'll get more location-centric advice. I've never had to reset a neck on a guitar, but I did ship across the country to have Tom Jacobs do my repair. He's very Guild savvy and comes highly recommended. Good luck.
 

HeyMikey

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Tommy, as has been mentioned, let us know where in the world you are and you'll get more location-centric advice. I've never had to reset a neck on a guitar, but I did ship across the country to have Tom Jacobs do my repair. He's very Guild savvy and comes highly recommended. Good luck.

And if it’s the catastrophic repair I’m thinking about, that one was way more scary than a neck reset. Tom has brought more than a few Guilds back from the dead.
 

GardMan

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I also would recommend Tom Jacobs. Send or take it to him... he'll give you an honest appraisel of whether a reset is needed. When I rec'd my DV-73, it's saddle was WAY low and the action a bit high... I sent it to Tom, and he was able to make some adjustments to the relief that gave me just a bit more breathing room... it's now at about 7/64ths and 5/64ths at the 12th fret, E/e. After discussing it with Tom on the phone, together we decided that the need for a reset at this point in time was off set by the potential risk a reset posed to such a beautiful guitar. It's been perfectly stable and very playable for the last 10 years... I'm thinking it will stay that way for my lifetime...
 
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richardp69

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I hope I live long enough to see the neck reset craze come to an end. I'll never understand breaking one of the strongest joints on the assembly to solve a problem elsewhere on the guitar.

Based on the luthiers reluctance to do the neck reset, I would question everything he said. Kostask nails it with his response.

If it plays well, enjoy it. If it's a 64th or two off at the 12th fret, is that worth breaking a critical glue joint?

I assume you are not saying you'd never consider a neck reset on one of your acoustic guitars, right?? If the guitar is unplayable or really hard to play and the problem has been diagnosed as a poor neck angle, it seems to me that you either get rid of it for what you can get or if you really like the guitar you pop for the reset to get it to where it's supposed to be. I've had several neck resets done on several "favorite" guitars and have never regretted that decision in the least. Maybe I'm just not understanding correctly (it's happened many times before)
 

Br1ck

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I hope I live long enough to see the neck reset craze come to an end. I'll never understand breaking one of the strongest joints on the assembly to solve a problem elsewhere on the guitar.

Based on the luthiers reluctance to do the neck reset, I would question everything he said. Kostask nails it with his response.

If it plays well, enjoy it. If it's a 64th or two off at the 12th fret, is that worth breaking a critical glue joint?

First of all, speculating on what might be wrong with a guitar does the OP no good. Something is causing poor action. Yes, it could be any number of things, a brace broken or loose, bridgeplate issues, bellying bridge, etc. but if it does need a neck reset, taking a neck off is no big deal to anyone competant. What scares techs off is the very flat and wide heel of Guild necks. They are fearful of finish issues from more steam to get the neck off, and having to do that extra work. They should just be up front like many are, and just say they are fearful of Guilds and would rather not do the work.

As to damaging the guitar by repairing it, you likely will end up with as strong or stronger a joint and a guitar you can enjoy. It's like saying your motor will just have to smoke instead of getting it rebuilt, because you fear damage. Sure, a bad tech can damage anything.
 

Stagefright

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I might consider a neck reset, but only as a last resort. The part I struggle with is the fact that the straight edge neck angle is a measurement relative to a bridge and sound board. Can you tell me from that measurement what actually moved? If the top has moved over the years, I want a solution that addresses the top and bracing. If the glue joint on the neck is compromised, I will pay to have that repaired. Short of a factory jig or precision measurement device (with factory specifications), I doubt anyone could confidently say what moved.

If would agree that the neck reset is the most convenient solution currently available, and it might be lucrative for the repair industry. I don't agree that it properly diagnoses the root cause of the relative angle change.

Luckily, I've never had a Guild guitar produce any noticeable change in playability. I often run out of talent, but my Guild guitars have been rock solid since the 70's.

Would I pay top dollar for a guitar that's had a neck reset? Probably not.
 

kostask

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I am all ears on any method of restoring a good neck angle without having to do a neck reset, especially if bridge beelying and the guitar bracing is ruled out. Not would I be all ears, but I am sure the entire guitar industry, as well as all the luthiers/guitar repair people on the planet would be overjoyed to hear such a methodology.

Anybody with the smallest lick of sense would have checked all of the bracing and bellying as a possibility before recommending or undertaking a neck reset. To assume otherwise is to belittle the many reputable luthiers/guitar repair people that are out there. There have been many people who have looked into the neck angle issue, and while there are many theories as to why the neck angle moves, none have come up with anything other than a neck reset as a solution, and this does include a number of very reputable and knowledgeable hand builders. while it is true that the reasons for the neck moving are open to debate, what isn't is that a neck reset is the only practical way of addressing the issue. Sorry, this is not a "craze", "fashion of the day", "WAG (Wild A__ed Guess" or anyting like that, it is the only practical method of addressing the problem.

As with anything that you buy, you are free to pay, or not pay for anything for any reason. But know that a guitar that has had a proper neck reset done DOES NOT lose value to anybody but yourself. It is in fact, accepted that neck resets will be required at some point in the lifespan of an acoustic guitar; it is inherent to the design and to how they function. Whether you or anybody else likes it or not, it is the nature of the beast, and if an acoustic guitar has not had a neck reset, it will, sooner or later.
 

fronobulax

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Do you ever wonder if Tuba players get to enjoy this sort of spirited disagreement?

Rarely in my experience. You could debate whether rotary or piston valves were better and what the "fundamental" should be but usually the discussions were about common experiences. ("They scheduled a month of Beethoven only concerts for a month so I got laid off." "Me too. Is the flautist flirting with me or making fun of me?").

(I forget the precise language but there are tubas whose natural, open notes are based on a B flat (concert pitch) and tubas based upon a C and even an F. The latter are somewhat rare. There are orchestral players who claim the C tuba has better intonation in the keys orchestral composers tend to use. There are orchestral players who claim they can play a B flat tuba in tune and don't need a C tuba. There are folks who claim an F is not needed - that's what a baritone horn is for - and others who hear tonal differences between an F tuba and a baritone horn. Most tubas are B flat. A C tuba doesn't even enter the discussion until someone is going to buy their own tuba and they have the drive and talent to expect a career as an orchestral tuba player).
 
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