Hello from first time poster with questions about F50R and F55R

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Greetings from Scotland from a long-time LTG lurker and first time poster :).

It may seem from my signature that I’m a Guild expert who's had his paws on lots of these beautiful instruments over the years, but I assure you that isn’t so. What's listed in my signature is in fact the only Guild models I’ve ever played, and all were pretty much bought blind without audition. American-made Guilds are pretty scarce here in the UK, not only in the used market but also in guitar stores, so there is limited opportunity to ‘try before you buy’.

I’m very blessed to have the collection I do, and I’ve only been able to curate it by being patient and buying used at very reasonable prices. Each model brings something different to the party, but if I could keep only one it would without question be my D50 Std, with the F-212XL Std coming in a very close second. The D50 Std is unlike any other guitar I’ve heard and produces an unfathomably huge, resonant choir of sound that seems as if there are several guitars playing in harmony. From the bottom end to the top end there isn’t a single thing I can fault about the way it sounds and no matter what style of music you play it is simply stunning.

That said, a Guild with “that iconic headstock” is still very much on my bucket list, either a D50/D55 or F50R. They are however incredibly scarce in the UK and, when they do come up for sale, are either beyond my budget or aren’t in the mint condition I’m looking for.

I thought I’d finally landed an F50R when a mint 2005 model came up for sale a few days ago. Before making payment I asked the seller to confirm the action at the 12th fret. He replied to tell me he’d have to postpone the sale as when he was measuring the action he noticed that the bridge had “lifted quite significantly” and that he’d have to take it to his luthier for advice/repair. His luthier has now examined the guitar and apparently the problem isn’t as serious as the seller had implied, his luthier believes it should be an easy fix.

This development has however made me hesitant to proceed with the purchase in case the problem with the bridge comes back to bite me, especially since at £2k GBP it will be double what I've spent on any other guitar.

I’ve been out of the loop regarding new Guild models for a few years now and wasn’t aware that they are still making the F50R but have renamed it the F55R. A quick online search shows that the F55R is available to buy new in the UK for £2.9k. I’m therefore wondering if paying the premium for a brand new model would be worth the extra piece of mind, even if it's almost 45% more expensive than the 2005 Tacoma model I'm looking at?

There’s also the question of how the new model stacks up against a Tacoma model for sound. I’m aware that the New Hartford models are generally regarded as the darling of the Guilds while the Tacomas are a close second. However, I also know from my own experience with non-Guild guitars that two of the exact same model of guitar made in the same factory can sound very different to each other, so there’s also the “luck of the draw” at play.

Anyways, thanks for taking the time to read my ramble! Your words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated. :)
 
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Cougar

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Greetings from Scotland from a long-time LTG lurker and first time poster :).
Welcome to the boards!

What's listed in my signature is in fact the only Guild models I’ve ever played, and all were pretty much bought blind without audition. American-made Guilds are pretty scarce here in the UK, not only in the used market but also in guitar stores, so there is limited opportunity to ‘try before you buy’.... I’m very blessed to have the collection I do, and I’ve only been able to curate it by being patient and buying used at very reasonable prices.
I'm in the U.S. and actually that sounds a lot like my experience. All my Guilds were bought online, and I also focus on the reasonably priced. A couple I ended up reselling, but I've also been lucky with the ones I've acquired.

I thought I’d finally landed an F50R when a mint 2005 model came up for sale a few days ago. Before making payment I asked the seller to confirm the action at the 12th fret. He replied to tell me he’d have to postpone the sale as when he was measuring the action he noticed that the bridge had “lifted quite significantly” and that he’d have to take it to his luthier for advice/repair. His luthier has now examined the guitar and apparently the problem isn’t as serious as the seller had implied, his luthier believes it should be an easy fix.

This development has however made me hesitant to proceed with the purchase in case the problem with the bridge comes back to bite me, especially since at £2k GBP it will be double what I've spent on any other guitar.
As far as I know, a lifting bridge is not a super expensive repair, but yeah, £2k GBP is up around $2,700, which is a lot. I guess in general prices over there are just more than they are here. I was super lucky getting my near mint condition New Hartford F50R for a great price. While there will be some differences between Corona, Tacoma, New Hartford, and Oxnard built Guilds, they are all remarkably consistent. There are no "bad" years for Guilds.

Best of luck in your search!
 

chazmo

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Welcome aboard, ToTo Man!

Before I get into the subjective stuff, I will say that bridge lift is a very common problem and it is an inexpensive repair. The key question is whether or not there's been any other structural damage to the guitar (excessive bellying, broken bridge plate, separated braces...) that underlie the problem and would clearly need to be fixed. If I were in your shoes, I would use this as a bargaining chip, since it sounds like the owner isn't getting the guitar repaired. In other words, the fact is that you'd be buying a guitar that is not perfect. I can't advise you what a good negotiated price would be though because Euro-prices are not commensurate with what we pay in the US. The critical issue here would be whether you have access to a good luthier/tech who could ultimately fix this for you. The other thing is that if you negotiate, find out what the seller's return policy will be.

Subjective stuff: I think the New Hartford arch-maple guitars like the F-50 and F-412 were the best of the breed. I've played many from all eras (except Oxnard) and to me they were just superior. You must love your F-50 Standard -- that's a guitar I wish I had.

As for the rosewood guitars... I've never met an F-50R (or an F-512) that I didn't like, ToTo Man... I have a preference for the early '70s light build models and anything from the Tacoma-era forward (where they've been on a constant lighter-build direction).

Good luck, and greetings from across the pond.
 
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Thanks for the welcome guys, it's great to finally contribute to the forum! :) (y)

@chazmo, I believe it is the seller's intention to have the repair done to the guitar before re-offering it for sale. I'm not sure of the extent of repair required but will seek this info from him when he has next spoken to his luthier.

Regarding my F50 Std, funnily enough this is the Guild in my collection that I've bonded with the least. It's very difficult to describe why, but the sound just doesn't wow me the way my D50 Std, D40 BGJ and F-212XL do. I don't know if it's because it's a maple, my expectations being set too high, or it just hasn't been "played in" enough. The previous owner didn't play it much, kept it in its case under his bed most of the time to keep it safe! I'm also guilty of this to some degree having so many Guilds I don't have enough time to "exercise" them all on a regular basis. In hindsight I really ought to have been more focused/selective in my acquisitions but I'm a sucker for wanting to try different models, and it's real hard to pass up a bargain!...
 
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walrus

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I have no thoughts on your questions, but welcome to LTG!

walrus
 

HeyMikey

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Ask if you can talk to his luthier about the condition. You will want to know about the neck angle, if there is bellying or deformity of the top, if there are any loose braces or cracks, the condition of the frets, etc. From there you’ll have a better sense as to what other repairs may be needed.
 

valleyguy

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A 2005 would be a Tacoma model. I have 2 Tacoma Guilds and they have been bullet proof, and in fact my D50 is also my favorite guitar. Everyone who plays it says it is a marvelous guitar. I bought it new and have never done anything to it and it still plays perfectly, AND, it gets played a lot. I wouldn't worry too much about buying one that young.
 

Taylor Martin Guild

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I sold a Westerly JF-55 or what ever it was called because it wasn't loud enough for my needs.
I replaced it with a Tacoma built D-55 and got exactly what I was looking for.
I have found that Maple guitar have a unique tone that you either like or don't.
I prefer Rosewood over Maple myself.
The Jumbo Guilds sound fantastic but the Dreds are louder in general.
At least to me.
Good luck in your search and I hope you find the guitar that you are looking for.
 

Westerly Wood

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I don’t know much about F50s, but really enjoyed your Guild story above. That D50 sounds awesome! Welcome to LTG and hope you stick around and share your voice.
 
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Just dropping in to re-assure you that I haven't done the equivalent of a forum "one-night-stand"... The seller of the F50R hasn't been back in touch and I decided not to chase the issue, so I don't have anything to report, apart from that I've been giving my existing Guilds some love and attention the last few weeks, re-stringing them and conditioning the fingerboards.

I'd forgotten how different the F47R sounds to my other Guilds, it has a mesmerising, wind-chime 'tinkling' quality to the treble strings that's very addictive.

I've strung all of them with Elixir Nanoweb Phosphor Bronze 12-53 which has emptied my piggybank! I used to use Martin SP but switched to Elixir Nanoweb after receiving a bad batch of SPs that had rust spots on them. I decided to stick with Elixir as even though they're significantly more expensive I don't need to change them as often, and I'm very lazy with string changes!

I committed the cardinal sin of not asking each of my Guilds whether they prefer 80/20 bronze or Phosphor Bronze, I've simply foisted PB upon all of them. My F30 and D50 actually came with Elixir Nanoweb PB when I bought them and they sounded so great I decided not to change a winning formula. My D40 BJ and F50 came with 80/20s fitted, and I preferred the sound after I restrung them with PBs (the D40 BJ in particular sounded excessively bright/brash in the upper mid tones with the 80/20s).
 

SFIV1967

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You certainly have a wonderful collection of Tacoma and New Hartford Guilds!
Regarding your D125-12, the stamp on the internal neckblock should give you the year of manufacture.

Ralf
 
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You certainly have a wonderful collection of Tacoma and New Hartford Guilds!
Regarding your D125-12, the stamp on the internal neckblock should give you the year of manufacture.

Ralf
The neck block stamp reads 1309200046. Does this suggest Sept 2013?
 

SFIV1967

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The neck block stamp reads 1309200046. Does this suggest Sept 2013?
Yes, that seems to be correct.
13 stands for 2013.
The second two digits identify the production month. In this case, 09 is September.
The next two digits, 20, are of no significance and are an internal number used to identify an order number. (so it is not the day of the month)
The last four digits identify the unit number of this specific order. In this case, 46 would stand for the 46th instrument made to the 20th order.

Ralf
 
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Yes, that seems to be correct.
13 stands for 2013.
The second two digits identify the production month. In this case, 09 is September.
The next two digits, 20, are of no significance and are an internal number used to identify an order number. (so it is not the day of the month)
The last four digits identify the unit number of this specific order. In this case, 46 would stand for the 46th instrument made to the 20th order.

Ralf
Excellent, thanks for this info!
 
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