Hatted Frau's latest Bigsby question.

Darryl Hattenhauer

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Yes, the case-by-case basis of your two X-175s got me hoping that some starfire 4s might not need a long screw-to-the-top bigsby.

There must be some way of fixing a roller bridge that doesn't work. Some pedal steel guitars have a roller nut, and if one of the rollers are two low, you can't bar the strings right. I've never had the problem, but I know there's a way to fix it. A lot of metal parts come from the factory that have little bumps and burrs on them, but an expert can fix them. As the case of your twin X175s, a small difference can be very important.

One thing I'll pass along for the millions of readers hanging on my every word (this is for you, B. B.). In his book, Hans says that lighter strings don't work as well on a bigsby, and that you should probably use a wound third. I guess that's because the saddle needs more pressure.

Well, I'm going to hit ebay and look for some wood bases and tune-a-matics.

Thanks Walter.
 

Walter Broes

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My experience with roller bridges is that on a typical archtop with a B6 or B3 style Bigsby, there's not enough downward pressure on the saddle to "make it roll". (even on guitars with great neck angle for a Bigsby)

They seem to work better on guitars with the double roller Bigsby, because of all that extra down-pressure.

The '64 SFIV I had for a while came with a B2 (Guild B6), but didn't like that setup one bit, as the guitar had a pretty shallow neck angle, and there was barely a "kink" in the string path looking down holding the guitar in playing position - strings were almost horizontal, and the tension felt weird, guitar didn't play all that well, and unless you taped that bridge down, it was going to move all over the place with strings any lighter than say, 12's or 13's. (= too heavy for me!)

But yes, I have seen Starfires with a taller bridge/steeper neck angle than the one I used to have.

None of my Bigsby equipped guitars have a wound third btw, I have D'Addario 11-49 on all of them, works great.
 

Darryl Hattenhauer

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The builders must know what they are doing in using screw-down bigsbys. My chances of find a post 1967 starfire 4 that would work with a shirt bigsby are probably next to none. I guess I'm looking for a needle in a haystack. I thought it would be as easy as as finding a hypodermic needle in a bofy-builder's locker.

I use elevens, too, but I add a wound third because I started out playing acoustics decades ago and can't break the habit.
 

Walter Broes

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Next guitar I'm buying (but that will have to wait awhile I'm afraid) will be an acoustic, and I'll definitely put something heavier, with a wound 3rd on that!

I bend that G-string too much for wound strings - the last time I played an electric with a wound G, I broke it within five minutes... :oops:
 

Darryl Hattenhauer

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With all of my string experiments, I tried an unwound third on a dread, and it was putrid. Nauseating. I realized then why I didn't like 12 string sets with both thirds unwound.

I don't bend much with a guitar, but I do with a banjo, and there I like very light strings. All banjo sets I've seen have an unwound third until recently. Gibson (of course) came out with a set of heavies, and it was putrid. Nauseating.
 

Kap'n

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Darryl Hattenhauer said:
I realized then why I didn't like 12 string sets with both thirds unwound.

If it's an electric 12 it can be useful. You can actually bend, and be (mostly) in tune.
 
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