Guitar maker scratched my Guild GAD-50E

[dreadnut]

It kinda cheeses me off that they can market "Lemon Oil" when in fact it doesn't contain a single drop of lemon oil..

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[DrumBob]

I was once selling a Gibson Firebird. Some guy called me about it and I told him it had a small one-eighth inch ding on the top. Here was his reaction:

"Oh, I could never buy a guitar with a ding or dent. If I get a parking lot scratch on my car, I have to sell it."

The response I wanted to give him was: "Did you forget to take your meds today?"

Instead, I just said, "OK, I guess this isn't for you. Bye."

 

[bobouz]

Sorry for the veer, but one more reiterated tip here: To clean grim off a fingerboard, I use fine bronze wool (non-magnetic, so great for electrics), followed by a treatment of Fret Doctor (bore oil). Results are consistently the best I’ve obtained in rejuvenating high-mileage fretboards.

Note - On fingerboards with binding, use care to go with the grain when rubbing grime off with bronze (or steel) wool. Going cross-grain too vigorously could potentially pop some of the binding loose.

 

[ParadiseSeeker]

I had a lot of work in the last weeks, but today I finally had time to play my beloved guitar. Sadly, the sound is not what it was before. Not at all. It sounds lousy. It‘s completely tinny.

As if the nut would be too low and the strings (new Elixir Acoustic Nanoweb Phosphor Bronze 12-53) have contact with the first fret while vibrating. Or maybe it‘s something else. Could this be caused by the reverse installed saddle?

 

[geoguy]

Possibly the saddle, if the saddle is not in good contact with the slot in the bridge.

Or, perhaps those are not the best strings for your taste in guitar tones.

Or, maybe it needs a setup adjustment to work best with those strings.

 

[davismanLV]

OHkay, no one needs to have a new "setup" for new strings. This is a sad story. So obviously you need a different luthier. I've been to Austria once. In the winter it gets cold. And if you're using heating and not keeping up with the humidity thing, your guitar can dry out and distort. Here in Las Vegas NV, it's tough because it's the desert. AND what the outside reading of humidity is, is NOT what's in your house. As soon as I turn on the heat (yesterday with an RH of 16%) the humidifier went down to 20 something. I tried to revive the wick... but it was no go. So I had to put a new wick in the humidifier and NOW it's LABORING to get to 40 and hold it. Should be 40-60 for optimum guitar health. How's your humidity, my friend?? Just wondering.....

 

[adorshki]

OHkay, no one needs to have a new "setup" for new strings. This is a sad story. So obviously you need a different luthier. I've been to Austria once. In the winter it gets cold. And if you're using heating and not keeping up with the humidity thing, your guitar can dry out and distort. Here in Las Vegas NV, it's tough because it's the desert. AND what the outside reading of humidity is, is NOT what's in your house. As soon as I turn on the heat (yesterday with an RH of 16%) the humidifier went down to 20 something. I tried to revive the wick... but it was no go. So I had to put a new wick in the humidifier and NOW it's LABORING to get to 40 and hold it. Should be 40-60 for optimum guitar health. How's your humidity, my friend?? Just wondering.....

Occurs to me, how was the luthier's humidity, given the other signs of ill care of an instrument? If it was "set up" in improperly humidified conditions it could get out of whack when properly humidified.

Still wondering about that saddle, yes, it could be a source of "buzzing/tinny sound", or even a poorly cut nut, if not both together.

But if it didn't do it initially, why does it do it with the Elixirs? @ParadiseSeeker, did you play it with the luthier installed strings at all?

12-53 pb is "factory spec" for those, don't think they ever got coated strings, but suspect that wouldn't make any real difference in overall set tension.

Reason I bring it up is that if the stings are significantly lower tension then fretting out could be the problem, as you mention.

 

[ParadiseSeeker]

But if it didn't do it initially, why does it do it with the Elixirs? ParadiseSeeker, did you play it with the luthier installed strings at all?

12-53 pb is "factory spec" for those, don't think they ever got coated strings, but suspect that wouldn't make any real difference in overall set tension.

Reason I bring it up is that if the stings are significantly lower tension then fretting out could be the problem, as you mention.

The luthier installed the Elixier strings. I didn’t change them. But I do have the same on my D-20E and GAD M-120E without any problems.

 

[adorshki]

The luthier installed the Elixier strings. I didn’t change them. But I do have the same on my D-20E and GAD M-120E without any problems.

I re-read your original post a couple of times and was reminded of stuff that got "lost in the shuffle", like the fact that entire back was scuffed up, not just the couple of scratches in the pics.

Coupled with the other evidence, (now it's the degraded sound quality) I think this guy really mucked up your guitar, even wonder if he had some kind of prejudice against it (snobbery?) and literally trashed it with poor workmanship on purpose. How could he expect to survive performing such poor quality of work?

You mentioned he actually builds guitars? Does he build flattop acoustics? Were you able to see examples of his work?

And understand your options were, and probably still are, limited due to Covid issues, which makes me wonder if this guy is simply capitalizing on the relative scarcity of competition.

Maybe he counts on people not wanting to bother with the hassle of pursuing restitution for poor work.

One more thought: "tinny" sound can be caused by poorly seated string ball-ends, and given the sloppy installation we saw, I'd check that right away if you haven't already.

Didn't mention it before because I assumed you'd put on the Elixirs and would have done it "correctly". For that matter, are you sure they're actually Elixir? I mean, this guy might have used toy banjo strings for all we know by this time. And I'm only half joking.

Truly hope things resolve more happily for you than the current situation.

 

[Nuuska]

I was once selling a Gibson Firebird. Some guy called me about it and I told him it had a small one-eighth inch ding on the top. Here was his reaction:

"Oh, I could never buy a guitar with a ding or dent. If I get a parking lot scratch on my car, I have to sell it."

The response I wanted to give him was: "Did you forget to take your meds today?"

Instead, I just said, "OK, I guess this isn't for you. Bye."

My Dear Wife is psychoterapist - officially - not self-declared . . . - before that she worked 16 years at local mental hospital - and she just might have some tiny bit to think about that

 

[Bernie]

Just give this luthier's name and address, so that no-one ever buys his guitars or have him doing any work, unless he gets this guitar back in mint condition for free, to start with...Is he in the town you're living in ?

 

[ParadiseSeeker]

Coupled with the other evidence, (now it's the degraded sound quality) I think this guy really mucked up your guitar, even wonder if he had some kind of prejudice against it (snobbery?) and literally trashed it with poor workmanship on purpose. How could he expect to survive performing such poor quality of work?

You mentioned he actually builds guitars? Does he build flattop acoustics? Were you able to see examples of his work?

One more thought: "tinny" sound can be caused by poorly seated string ball-ends, and given the sloppy installation we saw, I'd check that right away if you haven't already.

Didn't mention it before because I assumed you'd put on the Elixirs and would have done it "correctly" For that matter, are you sure they're actually Elixir? I mean, this guy might have used toy banjo strings for all we know by this time. and I'm only half joking.

Thanks for your comments and your empathy. I am just a little desperate because I do not want to believe that this is happening to me. I'm looking for flaws in my behavior, even questioning myself if a scratch was there before.

He is not in my town, but about an hour away from where I live. I only gave him my guitar because we had an initial conversation about working together. My multimedia agency does social media marketing, PR, video and photo production. All of which he's been pretty lacking in so far.

My company, like many others, is struggling to survive right now. And new clients are essential to get through this winter. That's why I haven't criticized him yet, although I don't think I'd hand over my Guild to him again. Of course, I know that I shouldn't - and probably won't - work with someone who has such different quality standards than I do. But what good are principles and values if your own economic existence is threatened by this pandemic?

I appreciate very much how friendly and helpful I have been welcomed in this forum. And, how intensively and patiently you are dealing with my problems. The solution will be to have a new luthier, who was recommended to me, check and repair the guitar after the lockdown. As soon as I have a concrete second opinion, I will let this guy know.

 

[ParadiseSeeker]

How's your humidity, my friend?? Just wondering.....

Yeah, it’s getting cold here in Austria. We had the first snow last weekend. But we didn‘t start heating yet.




I

 

[adorshki]

Yeah, it’s getting cold here in Austria. We had the first snow last weekend. But we didn‘t start heating yet.

I see you have 'em cased.

I'm one of those who believes a guitar should always be protected in its case when not in use. Even coined a slogan:
"There's only two places fit for a guitar: In its case or in your lap."

I understand folks who like to see their instrument on display and also easily grabbed at will, and granted mine are easily retrieved from the closet in my living room, but we've heard at least 3 or 4 stories here of instruments that got damaged from the most unlikely of circumstances that wouldn't have happened to a cased instrument.

And incidentally I think they also help buffer sudden humidity/temperature changes.

I figured when Guild provided a case with a guitar there was an underlying message: "Yeah, this instrument is worth protecting."

Best of luck with the new luthier! Keep us posted, we love happy endings.

Oh yes, 68% humidity is a bit high and would have the effect of swelling the top, increasing its slight radius. It would also tend to lower the action somewhat if the fretboard extension rises more than the bridge and the neck's got excessive backbow.

Which reminds me, the truss-rod may be misadjusted, do you know how to measure the action? That might be a dead giveaway. I'll check back tomorrow.

 

[bobouz]

A properly cut & properly seated saddle is absolutely crucial in getting the best tone out of your instrument. In post #38, the saddle appears to be leaning forward, most likely with poor overall contact. It should fit snugly & straight in without leaning - a tight fit, but still able to be pulled out with your fingers, and completely flat across the bottom (no east-west or north-south rocking in the slot). If the guitar were mine, fitting a new saddle would be the first order of business. I personally like Tusq, but many prefer bone.

Regarding your overall dilemma, it may take some experimentation & tweaking, but you should be able to successfully bring back that satisfying tone. Best of luck in the pursuit!

 

[Doons]

removed…. Off topic response…

 

[ParadiseSeeker]

Which reminds me, the truss-rod may be misadjusted, do you know how to measure the action? That might be a dead giveaway. I'll check back tomorrow.

A properly cut & properly seated saddle is absolutely crucial in getting the best tone out of your instrument. In post #38, the saddle appears to be leaning forward, most likely with poor overall contact. It should fit snugly & straight in without leaning - a tight fit, but still able to be pulled out with your fingers, and completely flat across the bottom (no east-west or north-south rocking in the slot).

The truss-rod was too loose. This was part of the problem with the too high action and why I gave it to a luthier. The saddle is original and fitted perfectly before I let him work on my guitar. I don't want to mess around myself in that condition and will wait until the new Luthier has time after the lockdown.

Btw, is there a place where I can buy the original Guild saddle and bone nut for this specific guitar?

 

[DrumBob]

It's a shame that "luthier" you took the guitar to not only scratched it, but also messed up the saddle and the tone. You really should warn others at some point about this guy. If you lived here, I could recommend a couple of outstanding luthiers.

 

[adorshki]

The truss-rod was too loose. This was part of the problem with the too high action and why I gave it to a luthier. The saddle is original and fitted perfectly before I let him work on my guitar. I don't want to mess around myself in that condition and will wait until the new Luthier has time after the lockdown.

Btw, is there a place where I can buy the original Guild saddle and bone nut for this specific guitar?

Don't know who handles that in Europe but there are sources, since I don't think Oxnard will ship internationally right now, but it's possible for such small items.

On the other hand, nut and saddle blanks are pretty generic and typically tailored to the instrument when installed anyway, so there's nothing unique about Guild's blanks that I know of. If replacement's truly needed I suspect your new luthier will be more than capable of handling it and likely at a price that doesn't include international mailing charges.

It just occurred to me that you were thinking of simply swapping out the old ones? As explained above, you'd still need to "fine-tune" them for your guitar's specific unique dimensions*: the depth of the slots in the nut and the height and the arc and height of the saddle. If new ones worked perfectly as provided it would just be pure chance .

*meaning the dimensions it wound up with after all the individual parts were assembled, most important being the neck angle.
And even though the generic size specs would be the same for all GAD-50's, there will be slight variations from instrument to instrument due to things like sanding for fit, actual fretboard width at the nut, etc.

 

[ParadiseSeeker]

Update: My new luthier polished the scratches out, he corrected the truss-rod, glued a loosen brace, oiled the bridge and fretboard, with lots of love, care and profession. Now it‘s perfect!

I love this Guild GAD-50E in Amber Burst soo much. The sound and quality is superior. For me it‘s the best acoustic guitar I ever had. Even better than my D-20E.

Thanks to everyone, who empathized and compassionated with me, for all the support, endurance, input and suggestions. This community is unique and means a lot to me.