Guild Bridges

[Taylor Martin Guild]

I have a 1991 JF-30-12 that I just sold and I'm looking at a JF-55 to buy.
Both guitare have low actions, but very little saddle left.
Neither guitar look to need a neck reset.
The bridges on both guitars are very tall, much taller than the bridges on my Martin or Taylor guitars.

Do any of you ever shave the bridges down to allow for a taller saddle?
I understand that a short saddle can compromise the sound of the guitar.

What are your thoughts on this?

 

[West R Lee]

Well just from what I've read many times here (no personal experience), there are guys here who have shaved their bridges. Remember though that as you shave the bridge, you've got to deepen the saddle slot too if you're trying to get back to the desired minimum 1/8" saddle protruding above the slot.

West

 

[Taylor Martin Guild]

Yes West,
I knew that.
I just don't know at what point it would be worth doing.

If I were to have it done, I think that I would also consider having the saddle slot cut wider
To accomodate a more compensated saddle.

 

[Tony Burns]

I shaved one about 25 years ago -it improved the guitar sound some. But Id never do it again , Id have the guitar looked at by a luthier or a decent tech . Their might be more to it , neck adjustment if your lucky or loose struts - Trust me shaving the bridge the last thing you want to do. Neck resets run any where from 3-5 hundred - but shave the bridge down wrong- your talking about a new bridge - thats 2-5 hundred ( 500 if its Brazilian rosewood -or close to that ) Mine never got any worse so i guess im lucky -

 

[West R Lee]

:shock: :shock: :shock: $500 for a new Braz bridge???? My gosh, why? Heck you can buy them all day for a tiny fraction of that. Then if I'm not mistaken, they take a hair dryer or something similar and melt the glue, matching the plate holes, they just glue the new one on. I think the trick is not messing up the top finish. I think most guys use like a teflon spatula to peel that sucker right on up.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Guild-acoustic-guit ... 240%3A1318

http://cgi.ebay.com/NOS-Vintage-Genuine ... 240%3A1318

West

 

[GardMan]

Some Guild bridges can be quite tall... seems to correlate with more recent (mid-70s-80s and later) instruments. More than one luthier I have spoken with have included shaving the bridge in their options for improving string break angle over the saddle... usually as a means of delaying the inevitable neck reset. On the other hand, the neck set is inevitable... and if you have shaved the bridge, when you do have the neck reset, you'll need a new bridge as well. A less drastic option is to notch ramps between the pin holes and the saddle, to allow the stings to break better over the latter: http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Luthier/Technique/Guitar/Bridges/StringRamps/stringramp.html

 

[Taylor Martin Guild]

Gardman,
that's a good tip.
If I buy the JF-55, I'll have Tom at Local Music look at it and go from there.
The guitar sounds great right now and the neck is straight and flat.
It just bothers me to see so little saddle showing above the bridge.
It may be fine for many years.
At least that's may hope.

 

[chazmo]

Gardman,
that's a good tip.
If I buy the JF-55, I'll have Tom at Local Music look at it and go from there.
The guitar sounds great right now and the neck is straight and flat.
It just bothers me to see so little saddle showing above the bridge.
It may be fine for many years.
At least that's may hope.

TMG,

It's all about what you hear and what you feel. Since you like what you hear, and hopefully it's playing right for you then you really don't need to do anything. Just my opinion.

On the other hand, if you can't get rid of buzzing or the action's getting difficult to play or the guitar is sounding thuddy or weak (a near impossibility with a JF55) that's when you should consider doing some work.

What you might try is a bone saddle replacement as a first step toward possible tone/playability improvement. That's where I'd start if I felt some aspect of the guitar was on the edge.

 

[plaidseason]

Out of the four Westerly Guilds I've owned, only one needed any bridge work done: shaved down bridge, ramped string slots.

I'm with Chazmo on this, the work is only necessary if you're having an issue with either playability, or tone. Otherwise, just leave it alone.

-Chris

 

[GardMan]

snip...I'll have Tom at Local Music look at it and go from there.

Dale, If you come down to Tom's... look for a '70s era F-212XL. I think one was coming in the door as a trade-in as I was leaving with my D-44 a week ago. Had already been there for a while, so couldn't stick around and get a look at it. Dave

 

[Taylor Martin Guild]

Gardman, thanks for the heads-up.
I may have to stay away until it's gone though.
Right now, I'm 12 stringless and I can't afford to get one. :lol:

The JF-55 plays great and sounds even better, right now.
It has light gauge poly Elixors on it.
The first thing that I will do if I get it will be to put PB mediums on her.

It looks like it has a bone nut and saddle on it already.
There is very little saddle showing over the bridge on the high E side though.

I may be getting it on Wednsday.

 

[Tony Burns]

:shock: :shock: :shock: $500 for a new Braz bridge???? My gosh, why? Heck you can buy them all day for a tiny fraction of that. Then if I'm not mistaken, they take a hair dryer or something similar and melt the glue, matching the plate holes, they just glue the new one on. I think the trick is not messing up the top finish. I think most guys use like a teflon spatula to peel that sucker right on up.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Guild-acoustic-guit ... 240%3A1318

http://cgi.ebay.com/NOS-Vintage-Genuine ... 240%3A1318

West

I wasnt kidding- To make a new Bridge from brazilian rosewod the fee is about 500 dollars ( per the luthier who does my work- for materials and labor)-i think its alot of money as well - but thats what I was told- You also might want to price some top end brazilian rosewood - its pretty bizare . Martin for example has a upcharge of about 10 grand per guitar for back and sides -

Concerning the two bridges you put in your post - the first is not Brazilian rosewood ( possibly a EIR )and the second one does not look like a guild ( at least not any Im use to- not sure what wood or its origin)

 

[West R Lee]

Hey Tony, I believe you, just merely saying the man is a bit pricey. Higher than most. I couldn't find any Guild Braz bridges, but just pulled up a Martin Braz bridge and a Gibson.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Gibson-1950s-Brazil ... 240%3A1318

http://cgi.ebay.com/Martin-Brazilian-Ro ... 240%3A1318

Just amazed at his price, that's all.

West

 

[Tony Burns]

Yeeah i hear ya -i think its high as well ( but hes a great luthier )If i was going to replace a bridge id probably just get a Ebony one or a EIR one from luthiers merchantile or ebay myself- but the guitar i asked about is a special guitar to be ( my '71 D-55 ) but i got lucky The bridge didnt need replacing -Kinda funny but i think I paid only 375 for it back in 78-79 ( which was alot of money back then) now that same guitar per the bluebook about 2 grand ( and id never sell her for that )