Guild 66-J

Soul Tramp

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This is an old amp I've had kicking around for a while. It's been sitting unused for years longer than I've had it. Not in bad shape considering it's age, but far from a museum piece. Serial number is 1298. Ugly thing with a bit of an Ampeg look.

As you can see in the gut shot, it hasn't been molested. Will definitely require some bench time before use.


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Soul Tramp

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Yeah, the electrolytics have to go, but hoping the coupling caps are ok. The Jensen has two cone tears that can be repaired, and I haven't tested the DCR or checked for VC rub. Will have to test the transformers.

I was a Fender guy back in the early 70's so I always thought the grey tolex combo amps were on the ugly side.
 

Soul Tramp

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I have it’s big brother, the 99J. WELL worth getting it back into safe operation.

Just did a quick look on Reverb. The Guild amps go for more than I would have expected. I guess I shouldn't be surprised consider what the old Silvertone(esque) amps go for.

I have a few old amps I keep for the sake of nostalgia, but this amp isn't one I have any history with. I may fix it up or just give it away. But either way should make some sort of decision as it's just getting worse with each passing years.
 

GGJaguar

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I'm not a bass player, but I appreciate the old V4B with the folded horn cabinet. It was probably the most thunderous amp I'd ever heard in my youth. I'm an Altec/JBL fanatic and have always loved the tuned cabinets (guitar & hifi).

Thunderous and heavy! I had to stop gigging with mine due to the weight. Plus it was overkill for a lot of small clubs. The B-25B was a better choice and much lighter and still had that great Ampeg sound.
 

Soul Tramp

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Ampeg and Sunn pretty were/are pretty much the pinnacle of bass amps with their ultra-linear circuits. Just not much you can do to design a better circuit. In my high school and college days the concert stages were awash with V4Bs, VOTTs, and Leslies. High powered PA systems relegated them all to the dust bin of R&R history.
 

mavuser

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that 66-J is looking nice. where are u located? if in the northeast i could trade you a nice guitar for it
 

Guildedagain

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Neat amp. Definitely some Ampeg influence cosmetically. 3 tubes only or are those 2 power tube sockets to the right? What tubes? How is it rectified?

Nice Marantz, wth is it, an amp?

What the one at the bottom, another amp?
 

Soul Tramp

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Neat amp. Definitely some Ampeg influence cosmetically. 3 tubes only or are those 2 power tube sockets to the right? What tubes? How is it rectified?

Nice Marantz, wth is it, an amp?

What the one at the bottom, another amp?


The 66-J has a 5Y3 rectifier, two 6V6 power tubes, and three 12AX7. Neat little amp and pretty typical of what was going on at that type (early 60's?).

I'm a bit of a hifi buff and definitely a speaker snob. The system is tri-amped. The Marantz is a 1060 that I only use as a preamp, the power amp is bypassed. The 1060 was Marantz's low end offering. During design they opted to use the preamp from one of their existing high-end amps as it was cheaper than developing a preamp section specifically for the 1060. So, it is a killer preamp and it's designed so the power amp can be bypassed. Clearly they know how it would end up being used. The amp in the bottom of the rack is an old Dynaco 400 that drives the subs. I use a Crown for the ring radiators and a pair of mono-blocks I built for the mid-freqs.

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Guildedagain

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Wow. I had a pair of Mc Monos once, played some guitar through one, got bored, sold them. Young, foolish.

Do you listen to Axis Bold As Love on vinyl?
 

Soul Tramp

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I've decided to fix this thing up and sell it. It's going to take a couple hundred dollars to get it back into shape.

Things to be done:
  • Serious cab cleaning
  • Replace cab hardware (fasteners)
  • Replace the speaker
  • Serious chassis cleaning
  • Replace two resistors
  • Re-stuff the cathode caps
  • Replace the filter cap can
  • Replace missing knob
  • Fix wiring problems
  • New tubes
Haven't decided exactly what to do with the speaker. My options are to re-cone the original or replace it with an old one. The one I have has a LOT of corrosion on the basket that I'd have to clean up before the re-cone. But once done I'd have a like new speaker. It's easier to buy and old one, but it will have warts and a 50ish year old motor/cone. I'll come to a decision shortly.

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Removed all components requiring replacement (caps & resistors) and finished cleaning the chassis & eyelet board. chassis cleaning is tedious! It requires patience, time and attention to detail. I started with a degreaser, small hobby paint brushes, and rages. Working around the components and wires is a trick. Also cleaned all the pots and tube socket pins. In the picture below you can see the missing caps & resistors.

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I hate seeing old (vintage) amps where someone has gutted the factory components and replaced orange drops and MF resistors. Whenever possible I replace defective components with something as close to original as possible.

I opted to unpack the three cathode cap and re-stuff them with new Sprague caps. Once completed the amp will have new electrolytics, but still look like it's factory fresh. It's a bit of work but well worth it with collectable type amps. In the pictures below you can see the steps involved. The final step was to use shellac to touch-up the Mallory wrappers when the finish flaked off when I un-rolled the end.

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Soul Tramp

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How would you say it compares to a deluxe?


I can't really answer that properly. Without having the two amp beside each other for an A/B test, it's all subjective.

However, there are considerable differences between the two circuits that would most definitely result in them sounding differently. All they have in common is a 5Y3 rectifier, and a 6V6 P/P power amp. Beyond that they are quite different. Different transformers, voltages, phase inverter, tone stack, etc. They are very different amps.
 
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Soul Tramp

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I have the amp running and it is now whisper quiet, the hum is completely gone. It's actually quieter than I would expect given the horrible layout and ground schema (typical of these old amps).

Unfortunately the trem isn't working, so I'll now chase that down.

I gutted and sprayed the Jensen. It came out very nice. I didn't paint the magnet structure or bolt flange as they have the Jensen sticker and factory stenciled numbers. Now going to send it to Weber for a re-cone.


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