Groovy or not…still another guitar pin question.

dane

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Groovy or not…still another guitar pin question.

Well I did my homework this time by using the search feature here and reading all the old post I could find regarding guitar pins, and boy am I glad I did. I also went out on the web and read different articles there. Again all good information. BUT…all this info has left me with more questions before I replace my plastic pins with bone. I guess the one that is really bothering me is this; are non-groove pins really better then the grooved ones? If you’ve had your guitar converted to non-groove was it really worth the trouble and expense? My D-46 is going to the shop for a well deserved bone nut, saddle, and what ever else it needs after twenty plus years of faithful and daily service, so now would be the time to convert it if it really is worth the effort. Thanks.
 

GardMan

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Re: Groovy or not…still another guitar pin question.

Can't really help you Dane. I read all the info re: notched and unnotched pins (notched bridge), and stayed with notched pins... mostly from inertia (and not wanting to make irreversible modifications to my Guilds). Dave
 

dane

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Re: Groovy or not…still another guitar pin question.

GardMan said:
(and not wanting to make irreversible modifications to my Guilds). Dave
That’s my concern too Dave, and the reason I’m questioning if it’s worth it. Thanks.
 

cjd-player

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Re: Groovy or not…still another guitar pin question.

As I understand it, the issue has to do with the break angle over the saddle. If the angle is very shallow, because the saddle is too low, you can lose volume and tone. One "fix" is to notch the bridge pin holes to creatre a steeper angle over the saddle. If the bridge is notched, there is then no need for notched pins because the strings fit into the notches in the bridge rather than the grooves in the pins.

If you don't notch the bridge, then you have to have grooved pins. If you do notch the bridge, you can use either grooved or ungrooved pins.

I think the larger issue is neck angle. If the saddle has to be very low because of the neck angle - and thus the low break angle of the strings over the saddle - then it's probably getting to be the time to consider a neck reset so that a proper height saddle can be used.
 

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Re: Groovy or not…still another guitar pin question.

cjd-player said:
As I understand it, the issue has to do with the break angle over the saddle. If the angle is very shallow, because the saddle is too low, you can lose volume and tone. One "fix" is to notch the bridge pin holes to creatre a steeper angle over the saddle. If the bridge is notched, there is then no need for notched pins because the strings fit into the notches in the bridge rather than the grooves in the pins.

If you don't notch the bridge, then you have to have grooved pins. If you do notch the bridge, you can use either grooved or ungrooved pins.

I think the larger issue is neck angle. If the saddle has to be very low because of the neck angle - and thus the low break angle of the strings over the saddle - then it's probably getting to be the time to consider a neck reset so that a proper height saddle can be used.

CJD, I think you are referring to string "ramps" (linked to frets.com) to improve break angle, as opposed to notching the bridge and using notchless pins? When you use pins w/o notches, the bridge (and bridge plate underneath, I presume) has to be notched to make room for the string along the pin shaft. I don't know that this would improve break angle to any considerable extent... but it is supposed/reputed to increase coupling between the string and the top.
Dave
 

cjd-player

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Re: Groovy or not…still another guitar pin question.

GardMan said:
CJD, I think you are referring to string "ramps"

Yes, I was.

Never heard of just notching the bridge without ramps before. :oops:
 
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