GAD JF30 Jumbo guitar

[RBSinTo]

I just purchased a GAD JF 30 jumbo, my introduction to Guild guitars.
By way of full disclosure, I also have a 1974 Martin D-28, a 2001 Gibson J-45, a mid-2000's Washburn parlour, and a late 1960's Matsumoku factory Gibson ES 335 knock-off.
According to information I found on-line, my Guild-designed, Chinese built GAD JF 30 was made in December 2003, which would make it an early model. Despite needing some repairs which I intend to have made, it is a impressive, and beautiful instrument, with a loud, bright voice. There does not appear to be a great deal of literature to be found regarding it, even about simple specifications such as recommended string gauges, and I would appreciate if anyone could steer me to information or if knowledgeable about these instruments, answer my questions.
Please and thanks,
RBSinTo

 

[geoguy]

Welcome, & congrats on your purchase!

Some LTG members have owned early GAD models, and may be able to help answer questions that you post.

And remember to post a photo or two of the new-to-you guitar . . .

 

[RBSinTo]

Geoguy,
Thanks for the welcome.
As I mentioned in my initial post, I would appreciate the factory recommended specifications for strings. I suspect the guitar was not played for a long time, and even that the strings (which feel like suspension-bridge cables) are incorrect, and I'd like to swap them out right away.
Of course, I have more questions, but for now, strings are my priority.
RBSinTo

 

[geoguy]

I found one on-line reference to a GAD JF30 using phosphor bronze string gauges of 0.012 - 0.053 inches. They were sold as a "Guild L-350" string set, back in the day, but D'Addario phosphor bronze light gauge strings would be a current equivalent.

Maybe consider starting with those D'A strings, and experiment from there if they don't suit your preferences?

I use the coated version of those strings (D'Addario EXP16) on several Guilds. The uncoated version costs less & sounds a bit brighter to my ears, but requires replacement more often.

The modern strings I've consistently found to feel like bridge cables are medium gauge Elixirs. They simply feel hard under my fingertips.

 

[RBSinTo]

Geoguy,
Thanks for this information. Very helpful. I intend to take the guitar in tomorrow for some repairs and this information will be useful for the Luthiers.
RBSinTo

 

[Cougar]

I just purchased a GAD JF 30 jumbo, my introduction to Guild guitars.

Welcome to Guild and to LTG! Everything I've heard about the GAD models is that they are the top of the line, most preferable from our Asian Guild makers. Major congrats! Gotta love a 17" lower bout jumbo!

 

[Tom O]

I have PB 12s on my 2007 GAD D212 tuned down two or three steps even though it has two truss rods. The bass comes out with the lower tuning and 12s. Leo Kottke always tunes down his 12 sting to get that special sound. I use mostly GHS strings. One dealer said a GAD 12 sounded as good a Taylor in a blind test in their store.

 

[RBSinTo]

Geoguy,
It would be helpful if you could provide me the link to the site where you found this information. Perhaps there is more there about this model. Please and thanks,
RBSinTo

 

[SFIV1967]

According to information I found on-line, my Guild-designed, Chinese built GAD JF 30 was made in December 2003, which would make it an early model.

Welcome to LTG! That would be indeed an early one but possible.
Just to double check: All GAD instruments are stamped with a 10 digit internal manufacturing number located inside at the base of the neck block.
As an example, we’ll use a random number 0312330026.
The first two digits of this number identify the production year. In this case, 03 would stand for 2003.
The second two digits identify the production month. In this case, 12 would stand for December.
The other numbers are internal factory numbers. As example those next two digits, 33, are of no significance and are an internal number used by the vendor to identify their order number.
The last four digits identify the unit number of the order. In this case, 26 would stand for the 26th instrument made to the 33rd order.


And here is the info from the Guild catalog about the strings:



The Guild catalogs can be found for instance on our forum owner GAD's blog pages:

Guild Guitar Catalog - 2005 (GAD) | GAD's Ramblings

PDF Version: Here More about: [ Guild Guitars ][ Dogs ][ Cozy Tales ][ Ferret-Dog ] Donate: PayPal Crypto: BTC | ETH | Doge BTC: bc1qgke2eeuwjafudateev08ekytn3g3mpl2w5a542ETH: 0x0AC57f8e0A49dc06Ed4f7926d169342ec4FCd461Doge: DFWpLqMr6QF67t4wRzvTtNd8UDwjGTQBGs

www.gad.net

Ralf

 

[geoguy]

Ralf cited a better source, but here is what I saw on-line. This store appears to be (or was) a Guild dealer, & presumably they copied/pasted the guitar specs from Guild's website. String type/gauges are near the bottom of the list:

Guild GAD JF30 specs

 

[RBSinTo]

Thanks all for the comments and useful information.
This afternoon I took the guitar in for repairs.
The guitar which is a very late 2003 (based on the 10 digit number on the heel block) appears not to have been played for some time, but except for two surface cracks on the lower bout is in very fine shape.
The Luthiers at Cosmo Music, a very reputable music store here in Toronto will be closing, gluing and cleating two cracks in the lower bout, refinishing the surface at the cracks, adjusting the truss rod and the saddle to lower the action, adding strap buttons, and installing new strings for about $200.00 (Canadian), and I'll have it back in about two weeks. The Luthier gave it a quick play, and was very impressed with its volume and voice. He also had a Gibson J-200 on hand that was being repaired, and he said he preferred the sound of the Guild.
These repairs which I had estimated were discussed with the seller before I bought the guitar, and were factored into the final selling price, so there were no surprises after the fact when I took it in today.
RBSinTo

 

[adorshki]

Thanks all for the comments and useful information.
This afternoon I took the guitar in for repairs.
The guitar which is a very late 2003 (based on the 10 digit number on the heel block) appears not to have been played for some time, but except for two surface cracks on the lower bout is in very fine shape.
The Luthiers at Cosmo Music, a very reputable music store here in Toronto will be closing, gluing and cleating two cracks in the lower bout, refinishing the surface at the cracks, adjusting the truss rod and the saddle to lower the action, adding strap buttons, and installing new strings for about $200.00 (Canadian), and I'll have it back in about two weeks. The Luthier gave it a quick play, and was very impressed with its volume and voice. He also had a Gibson J-200 on hand that was being repaired, and he said he preferred the sound of the Guild.
These repairs which I had estimated were discussed with the seller before I bought the guitar, and were factored into the final selling price, so there were no surprises after the fact when I took it in today.
RBSinTo

Welcome aboard, RBS!


Possibly a "stupid question", but better asked than not: Does your luthier know the GAD's are finished with poly, not NCL, and poly's generally a lot harder to "patch" than NCL?

 

[RBSinTo]

adorshki,
Not a stupid question at all. I'll call them and mention it.
thank you.
RBSin To

 

[RBSinTo]

The repairs were made and because the Luthier was not completely satisfied with the aesthetics of the crack repairs, (they were too visible in his opinion), so for gluing and cleating two cracks, and touching up the surface finish, reattaching or replacing an interior strut that was broken, fixing a ding on the back, adjusting the truss rod, lowering the action by adjusting the nut and saddle, adding two strap buttons and replacing the strings, he charged me $95.00 Canadian. I am very pleased with the results except for the gauge of the strings, which I find a bit heavy for my taste on this guitar. Next time I get strings for it, I'll try a lighter gauge string. It has a big, loud and bright sound and that is the most important quality in my mind.
And while I've never posted photos of a guitar before, I have some that I took to email a friend from the Gibson site, so I'll make an exception and put them on here.
RBSinTo

 

[chazmo]

Looks really nice, RBSinTo!

Was this the guitar with the clear PG that you were talking about elsewhere? And, if so, shall I assume your luthier removed it? No sign of it (I think) in the pix. Am I not seeing something?

 

[RBSinTo]

Chazmo,
Thank you. I'm very happy with it.
Yes, this the guitar I referred to in another thread, and no, the clear pickguard was not removed.
In the second photo it is very faintly visible, but difficult to see, probably because both the finish on the top and pickguard is very glossy. If you are really curious, I'll take another shot and see if I can get it to stand out.
RBSinTo

 

[chazmo]

No, that's cool, RBSinTo. I see it now. Well, barely, that is.

 

[HeyMikey]

Looks great RB! The maple on the back is terrific. I would suggest leaving the clear guard on for a while and see if it grows on you. I think it looks great that way. I put a clear one a guitar I have that had no guard and really like it, through I did somehow manage to get a smudge under it. Your looks crystal clear.

 

[JohnW63]

Very nice. I like the back of the guitar.

If you don't like the string gauge, why not take them off now and enjoy the guitar sooner? I generally never go past a 12 gauge set and have been known to go to 11s.

 

[RBSinTo]

The back of the guitar is really wonderful, but it's really tough to play with it showing.
Mikey,
Good advice. I'm not in a rush to remove or replace it, so for now it stays. And yes, it is very clear with no signs of peeling or lifting.
John,
Another bit of good advice.
I'm certain when I do get back to the music store I'll get a set of lighter strings. For now, I'll just continue playing with the 12's and work on improving my callouses.
RBSinTo