Cable and plug preferences

Brad Little

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I'm pretty sure some of you assemble your own cables, curious as to what cable and plugs you recommend.
 
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JohnW63

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I've used them too. When I've had to repair cables, I stumbled on that brand and used them ever since. Just well designed. Years ahead of the stuff I used to get from Radio Shack.
 

Guildedagain

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Hosa makes pretty decent patch cables with acceptably low DC resistance.

In the old days I used Belden cable, Switchcraft ends.

Eric Johnson was somewhat notable in the cable discussion years back, which cable he preferred. Eventually George L cables got quite popular because of this but I'm not a huge fan of non soldered cables, although... Fender's gray cords used such ends in the olden days and their cables were very low resistance for the length. I still have two, and each one is under 1Ω, which is impressive for a long guitar cord.




"Big and fat, and clean" ;]

"more immediacy" ;]

"a sense of body, heft to the sound"

"a feel good hallelujah sound"
 
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Nuuska

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The series resistance of guitar cable has no practical effect - just remember that the output from the guitar is about 2-5kohm - the input impedance of tube amp is about 1Mohm - to have any noticeable level drop - the cable would have to be at least hundreds of ohms. More likely much higher.

But there is cable capacitance which cuts high frequencies - the longer cable, the lower cut-off frequency.

And the longer the cable - the more sensitive it gets as hum-receiver. Which leads to practical solution. Using microphone cable - two wires twisted + shield. In guitar end you leave shield disconnected - make sure it does not touch anything. On amp end you connect the shield to ground. The two wires go tip-to-tip and ground-to-ground. This separates shield from signal - when looking at how outside hum etc affects the CABLE.

To make it even better - you can use stereo plug on guitar end - have stereo jack on your guitar - and rewire the guitar so that metal parts - including pot shields connect to ground only - and pups connect to tip & ring only. This way there will be complete separation of signal from the ground - up to amp input. This wiring also allows you to use normal guitar cables like now.
 

Guildedagain

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$80 for 10' cable



A whopping $120 for a 20' cable. No wonder they sound so good... And the added benefit with Sweetwater is random phone calls during dinner for the rest of your life. Sorry, side effect of the vaccine seems to be extra sarcasm this morning ;]

Specs;

  • 20' cable with with 1/4" straight to 1/4" straight plugs
  • Nickel conductors for durability and excellent conductivity
  • 95% cross-braided tin copper shielding for outstanding resistance to noise and interference
  • Directional twin-axial 99.9% ultra-pure, oxygen-free copper for exceptional signal transmission
  • Unique barbed-collar bracket reliefs ensure years of reliable performance
  • Extra durable, full-flex, pressurized PVC jacketing provides superior conductor stabilization and abrasion resistance
  • All components designed and manufacturer in the USA

I would love to try one or hear actual tone comparisons, analyzed by a computer.
 

Nuuska

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From above link :

"... a cable that not only is crafted for premium sound quality, but it also brings out the true tonal character of your instrument. Designed and manufactured in the USA, this cable will deliver enhanced harmonic and frequency response with its patented solid core, ultra-clarity nickel connector. "



In my book the text above is more or less snakeoil - rest of it may be ok - they say it is durable and abrasion resistant - I'm fine with that.

If you read carefully what I wrote in post # 6 - the first two paragraphs - you'll see what I mean. Anything with audio cables has been soaked in snakeoil for decades. f.e. a certain loudspeaker company @ about 1980 were busy telling how their cones had this special "curvalinear shape2 that was supposed to be something special - despite the fact, that hundreds of other loudspeaker makers had been using that shape ever since . . . they also advertised how the voice-coil wire copper was sourced from a specific australian mine, that had very unique "oxygen-free copper" - whatever that might mean.


What I'm trying to say is - go ahead and try different new things - IF YOU HAVE the option of testing it free somewhere - or have RELIABLE source telling you, that it is worth your money.

A mass produced guitar cable is worth 10-20 $/€ if you ask me. for fancy one of same quality you might add another 5-10 . . .

I leave rest to the other technically versed members of LTG for now.
 

GuildedCage

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Last year I bought myself a good quality cable by a company called Pig Hog. It seems well made and sounds great. It's also Tartan and I'm a full-Blooded Scottish Canadian. If it's no Scottish it's Crap.

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