Burnside blade
- Thread starter bandu
- Start date
SFIV1967
Venerated Member
Welcome to LTG! The Blade was the BE-95 model.
1986 Catalog:
Other 80ies catalog:
A closeup picture of another Blade:
Ralf
1986 Catalog:
Other 80ies catalog:
A closeup picture of another Blade:
Ralf
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2009
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- NJ (The nice part)
I own two blades. How can I help?
The Guilds of Grot
Enlightened Member
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That would be an easy thing to design and print but I’m not sure how well plastic would hold up in that application.
Nuuska
Enlightened Member
In case @bandu can live without original look - there is a very easy solution .
- If there is no screw - get one from local hardwarestore.
- Take a washer w right size hole for the screw.
- Use file to grind excess material of the round washer in order to make it square.
This will get you ready for having the guitar fully functional - if you find correct piece later - then put it in.
And I wonder if that locking nut is/was some generic piece - so finding replacement parts should be easy.
Here is one example of GOTOH on Thomann website
www.thomann.de
- If there is no screw - get one from local hardwarestore.
- Take a washer w right size hole for the screw.
- Use file to grind excess material of the round washer in order to make it square.
This will get you ready for having the guitar fully functional - if you find correct piece later - then put it in.
And I wonder if that locking nut is/was some generic piece - so finding replacement parts should be easy.
Here is one example of GOTOH on Thomann website
Gotoh GHL-2-B Locking Nut
Locking Nut Top mount type, Suitable for Floyd Rose tremolo systems, Width: 43 mm, Radius: 400 mm, Colour: Black, Made in Japan
www.thomann.de
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The Guilds of Grot
Enlightened Member
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2009
- Messages
- 28,234
- Reaction score
- 27,820
- Guild Total
- 118
- Location
- NJ (The nice part)
I would love one of those laser sintering printers but for the money they charge for them I could buy a new Audi.
They actually sell some metal infused PLA (plastic) filament where you print the object then send it in where it’s baked in some special oven and then you get the metal part back, but that involves more patience than I am capable of. They’ve got the process so precise that you design in the dimensional loss from the baking process and it’s supposed to be quite accurate. I can’t imagine it’s 0.0001” accuracy, but it’s still interesting.
If I’m going to go through all that I’d rather send it to a local machine shop or buy a desktop mill and that’s a whole rabbit hole I don’t need in my life right now.
TL;DR - don’t tempt me.
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Thanks for your help! I think I can fabricate the spacers (brass?)… do you know what thickness the spacer is supposed to be? Or do I need to make a couple thin ones and stack them? Do you have the dimensions of the actual locking nut that was supposed to be on it? No sure if it’s original. The guy I bought this from had no idea about guitar repairs and totally butchered the headstock. Looks like he tried several different locking nuts as there are 6 unoriginal holes drilled in it (which I have repaired) . Again, thanks for sharing your knowledge…any info/pictures will be greatly appreciated!
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2009
- Messages
- 28,234
- Reaction score
- 27,820
- Guild Total
- 118
- Location
- NJ (The nice part)
There are many iterations of the Blade - more than are shown in the scant few catalogs we know of. If you could post a pic of your guitar along with a closeup if the nut front and back, I can see if mine matches yours.
Hi GAD….sorry it’s taken me a bit to get back with you. I am just no getting back to this guitar. I fixed the all the excess headstock holes the previous owner was kind enough to drill so many of! Anyway…here’s the pictures you asked for…again…thanks for sharing your knowledge!
