Binding glue for finished guitars

BradHK

BradHK

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I am replacing the entire top binding on a 1958 M65. The finish looks great and I do not want to risk glues that will react with the nitro. I tried fish glue, no luck as I tested it and it would not adhere to the PVC binding. Any recommendations from the luthiers on the forum? Thanks!
 
BradHK said:
I am replacing the entire top binding on a 1958 M65. The finish looks great and I do not want to risk glues that will react with the nitro. I tried fish glue, no luck as I tested it and it would not adhere to the PVC binding. Any recommendations from the luthiers on the forum? Thanks!
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Wasn't the original binding NC plastic? Suspect they simply used good ol' hideglue or even NC lacquer. (Seem to recall a comment from years ago that they actually glued pickguards to flattops with it at one point, when they used to routinely finish over the pickguard, mid '70s')

I realize the PVC binding probably has much better longevity, but it may be why you have to come up with a creative solution. Not sure if hide glue will adhere to PVC. Titebond?
 
adorshki said:
Wasn't the original binding NC plastic? Suspect they simply used good ol' hideglue or even NC lacquer. (Seem to recall a comment from years ago that they actually glued pickguards to flattops with it at one point, when they used to routinely finish over the pickguard, mid '70s')

I realize the PVC binding probably has much better longevity, but it may be why you have to come up with a creative solution. Not sure if hide glue will adhere to PVC. Titebond?
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Thanks for the response. I also have celluloid binding like the original but I can get a closer match to the original dimensions with the ABS as they come in many more sizes. I tested a few glue options and decided to be VERY careful and used CA. Not the water thin stuff but more like a medium consistency. It was not a job I would want to do again tomorrow but no finish issues. There were a few small finish spots from a previous repair somebody tried to glue back the old binding. I wish they had just left it alone, or had done it correctly!
 
Here are a few photos with the new binding installed before lacquer. As mentioned above, I used CA glue. After glueing and letting it sit overnight, I carefully scraped and sanded the binding to be flush with the body. This was not a fun job as you are working right beside the original finish. I have much more respect for luthiers who are willing to replace binding on vintage guitars! I will put on a few coats of aged lacquer to match the lacquer color on the neck binding. I was happy with the result as it is tight against the body with no gaps. I will mask it up and only spray the binding to not touch the original finish.

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Finally getting some time to finish this project. I only want to apply aged lacquer to the binding with no overspray onto the original finish. All wrapped up and ready for spray!

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AcornHouse said:
A new glue to me. Water based and easy clean up. Looks interesting.
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I have not tested it on “non-fitting” binding (the very binding Beau suggests it will *not* hold). Nor have I installed new binding with it (I mostly work with wood, but I do have an instrument coming up that I will get to use it on). Otherwise, it appears to work very well for repairs. It dries clear, as claimed, and is cleaned up easily with water.
 
I have a new binding detachment on my Martin D-28 guitar (5th time for me !) : first luthier I went to used Acetone glue twice (2nd time one year after the 1st :(), and it didn't hold more than about one year each time (n) - was celluloid binding as the guitar is a Marquis -. CA glue was used 3rd time on same spot (back waist and a different luthier then), and it holds well it seems... Meanwhile CA glue had been used by a local luthier for a top waist going loose too...Now second top waist :mad:

1st luthier has built many guitars, and uses ABS on his OM type (wood on his other models), and he says he never had a problem. Martin bindings do shrink a lot though, and the 'environmental friendly' glue they use is worth nothing there !! I guess that Acetone glue would normally work on ABS (but I don't know of the make and more precise reference)... It can be redone if needed later on, and that's why luthiers would rather use this type of glue I believe.
 
@Bernie that really sucks. Wow, five times?!?! My goodness! That’s a pretty epic failure! That would drive me to drink… Well, wait a minute… I don’t need any encouragement there. :D

I’ve been hearing about Martin binding separations for years now and I’m just glad it was not a problem with some of the older Martins I’ve owned (and still do). I guess it is the adhesive that they use which is at fault as you mentioned.
 
Started in 2012 it seems (and may be still running)...I now play Furch (Martins ?, oh they still smell good after 11 years - don't know how they do it -, but I bought a guitar, not a 'smell good')...
 
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Tinted lacquer applied and tape removed. It always makes me nervous pulling tape off of vintage lacquer! I am going to let it sit a few weeks before wet sanding and polishing but the color looks good. Almost a perfect match to the aged original lacquer on the neck binding. Much better than the bright white!

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Brad that looks great! I'm replacing the binding on my '53 X-150 and it's looking ok but your work looks like a professional job, very nice.
 
Don't know how this would work out on a complete re-binding job, but the tech who reglued about 4" of binding at the waist of my DV-72 used "canopy glue"... my understanding is that it is a water soluble glue that adheres to plastics and wood, used by model airplane builders to attach... canopies.
 
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