2014 F-1512 bridge lift

[blackie51]

I have a 2014 F-1512 and the bridge is starting to lift very slightly, just enough to get a slip of paper under it in one corner. Can anyone tell me if there is finish under the whole bridge or would the finish have been removed, except maybe around the edges, before gluing the bridge on? Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
Tom

 

[GardMan]

I don't know about the Chinese-made Guilds, but at the Westerly factory, the NC lacquer extended slightly under the footprint of the bridge. It was not uncommon for the bridge to separate slightly from the top where the glue did not adhere well to the lacquer... often you can slide a thin piece of paper under the edges of the wings or along the back of the bridge. As long as the separated area is small (you can't slide the paper in very far), and the gap isn't really wide (a thin piece of paper slides in a little ways, but not a thick cardstock), I wouldn't worry too much. When I noticed it on my 45 year old D-35, I was told by two independent techs to just keep an eye on it.

If it does progress, it is relatively inexpensive to have the bridge removed and re-glued....

 

[adorshki]

I have a 2014 F-1512 and the bridge is starting to lift very slightly, just enough to get a slip of paper under it in one corner. Can anyone tell me if there is finish under the whole bridge or would the finish have been removed, except maybe around the edges, before gluing the bridge on? Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
Tom

It occurs to me that because those are poly-finished the top might actually be completely finished underneath the bridge.
The other variable is, we don't know what type of glue was used.
Fender was not too forthcoming with that kind of info about the GAD's.
On Westerlys, we know what was used and how the materials interacted as Gardman explained (although my memory says the bond of hide glue to NCL was stronger than the bond of NCL to the top, which still created the same end result).
Whether that applies with poly and the glue used on GADs has never been discussed here as far as I know, and I think I'd remember.
I do think poly would be extremely unlikely to be able to be separated at the edge of the glue pad if it was a similar issue,
(finish extending under edges of bridge), so I'm guessing it's a glue problem: poor bond between glue and finish.
Another factor inhibiting the knowledge base about GADs is that Fender frequently handled warranty claims on those by simply replacing the guitar, as it was often cheaper (for them) than actually repairing 'em.
So we never saw feedback on what was involved and the materials used.
Best suggestion is to contact an authorized Fender Repair Center to see what they say, as I'd expect it to be the most likely place to have had any experience at all.
Or maybe their Customer Service Department in Scottsdale can provide info.

 

[blackie51]

Thank you Dave and adorshki for your responses and detailed info. I also emailed Guild customer service asking if there is finish or bare wood under the bridge but have not heard back from them yet.

The gap is too narrow now to determine if there is any finish under it but a piece of paper slides in about 8mm, which is enough to make me nervous about it. I was considering having a glue-in-place repair done but, without knowing if there's bare wood or finish under it, I've decided to have the repair done properly. I'll have the bridge removed and, if there's finish there, have the finish removed before it's re-glued. I'll will report back as to the finish/wood question once my luthier has started the work.

Thanks again,
Tom

 

[davismanLV]

Tom, let us know what you find out. It's feedback like that that contributes to the overall knowledge and information base of the forum. A bridge reglue is a pretty straightforward repair. :encouragement:

 

[adorshki]

Thank you Dave and adorshki for your responses and detailed info. I also emailed Guild customer service asking if there is finish or bare wood under the bridge but have not heard back from them yet.

I'm mebarrassed to admit I can't remember if they reatined warranty responsibilty for those, but after reflection, I believe we deduced that the same place that made the GADs is making the Westerly Collection by comparing some QC labels a while back.
So I'm thinking Cordoba may actually know how the GADs were constructed even if they're not doing it the same way on the Westerly Collection series.
But I'd bet it's the same.

The gap is too narrow now to determine if there is any finish under it but a piece of paper slides in about 8mm, which is enough to make me nervous about it. I was considering having a glue-in-place repair done but, without knowing if there's bare wood or finish under it, I've decided to have the repair done properly. I'll have the bridge removed and, if there's finish there, have the finish removed before it's re-glued. I'll will report back as to the finish/wood question once my luthier has started the work.
Thanks again,
Tom

Wise decision, and you're welcome!

 

[geoguy]

Are you the original owner?

If so, might this be a warranty repair?

 

[blackie51]

No, I'm not the original owner so no warranty involved.

Will do Tom

Tom

 

[adorshki]

Are you the original owner?

If so, might this be a warranty repair?

Even if it was it might be a bigger PITA to get warranty service than to just get it re-glued at this time.
See my note about Fender's treatment of the GAD series: They reserved the right to repair or replace at their discretion.
Even if Cordoba offers actual repair under warranty, getting it to an authorized repair center might also cost more than the actual repair, but I did mention the issue to the OP in case he is actually the original owner.
Edit:
Ahhh, I see blackie replied while I was composing.

 

[Cougar]

...a piece of paper slides in about 8mm, which is enough to make me nervous about it....

I see you decided to have it re-glued. No sense in being nervous about it! Before that, though, I was thinking, 8mm? What's that in inches? :blushed: So I asked my handy WolframAlpha computational knowledge engine, which told me it was about 1/3 of an inch.

Fun Fact!: It also told me that you would have to compress the Earth into a ball with radius about 8mm in order to make it a black hole. :emptiness: