drc
Senior Member
I'm thinking of buying this, do any of you have any words of wisdom? Its a great price!
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/dak/msg/4064635719.html
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/dak/msg/4064635719.html
1981 Fender Pro Reverb
- Thread starter drc
- Start date
I would probably buy it. It looks tired, but it could just be the dust. The cover is a good thing to have. Wheels look good to me, but then I'm old....
Resale prices have always dropped off for me when fender amps are from the '80's, so that's something to bear in mind. If everything is all original inside, you're still dealing with dried-out, 30+ year old electrolytic caps. What would a Big Cap (electrolytic) replacement job cost in Minneapolis? $60 worth of caps (for the good blue ones) and labor? Maybe the seller will split the difference?
Good luck, Dave.
Harry
PS I'll call my amp guru in an hour and get back to you if he has any words of wisdom. I know he did a Big Cap job for me on an '82 Vibrolux and it sounded really good. HH
Resale prices have always dropped off for me when fender amps are from the '80's, so that's something to bear in mind. If everything is all original inside, you're still dealing with dried-out, 30+ year old electrolytic caps. What would a Big Cap (electrolytic) replacement job cost in Minneapolis? $60 worth of caps (for the good blue ones) and labor? Maybe the seller will split the difference?
Good luck, Dave.
Harry
PS I'll call my amp guru in an hour and get back to you if he has any words of wisdom. I know he did a Big Cap job for me on an '82 Vibrolux and it sounded really good. HH
guildman63
Senior Member
You may want to check out the year of manufacture. I have seen reports that late 70's Fender amps could be suspect due to odd circuit design, but I am no expert. Perhaps others can tell you more.
bluesypicky
Enlightened Member
If the amp is point to point and I would get it. You should factor in the cost of a thorough servicing; caps, possibly new tubes, etc.
My ProRev is a '78, not considered the best year, but I got it cheap and had an great tech go through it and it sounds wonderful.
The tech did a couple of easy mods, adding reverb/vibrato to both channels and phasing it so both channels can be used either separately or together. Now, with an A/B/Y switch, I have a 3 channel amp. The mods are easily reversible if I want to stock it to resell.
Just some food for thought...
My ProRev is a '78, not considered the best year, but I got it cheap and had an great tech go through it and it sounds wonderful.
The tech did a couple of easy mods, adding reverb/vibrato to both channels and phasing it so both channels can be used either separately or together. Now, with an A/B/Y switch, I have a 3 channel amp. The mods are easily reversible if I want to stock it to resell.
Just some food for thought...
drc
Senior Member
ok so I been googling trying to figure out if its PTP or PCB? Still not sure, seller doesnt know either.
guildman63
Senior Member
guildman63
Senior Member
And another link about the Pro Reverb has this as the last paragraph:
"Around 1974 a master volume control with pull boost was added and, two years later, three way EQ and the replacement of the tube rectifier with a [[Solid state (electronics)|solid-state]] rectifier and an increase in output to 70 watts and in 2010 these were selling for around $1500 to $1900(2011 Vintage Guitar Price Guide). The "ultra-linear" solid-state rectifier versions are perhaps the least desirable of the Pro Reverbs, along with the later 1980-era blackface versions, 1980s-era blackface versions were far superior designs to the previous and manage to retain the vintage sound with technologically superior reliability. They were discontinued in 1982."
It is my guess that the first mention of "1980-era blackface version should actually read 1970's instead as the subsequent sentence mentions the "1980's-era blackface versions" as being "far superior designs." Not sure about silver face models.
http://www.ask.com/wiki/Fender_Pro_Reverb
"Around 1974 a master volume control with pull boost was added and, two years later, three way EQ and the replacement of the tube rectifier with a [[Solid state (electronics)|solid-state]] rectifier and an increase in output to 70 watts and in 2010 these were selling for around $1500 to $1900(2011 Vintage Guitar Price Guide). The "ultra-linear" solid-state rectifier versions are perhaps the least desirable of the Pro Reverbs, along with the later 1980-era blackface versions, 1980s-era blackface versions were far superior designs to the previous and manage to retain the vintage sound with technologically superior reliability. They were discontinued in 1982."
It is my guess that the first mention of "1980-era blackface version should actually read 1970's instead as the subsequent sentence mentions the "1980's-era blackface versions" as being "far superior designs." Not sure about silver face models.
http://www.ask.com/wiki/Fender_Pro_Reverb
guildman63
Senior Member
http://craigslistvintageguitarhunt.blogspot.com/2009/10/1981-fender-pro-reverb-2x12-tube-amp-in.html
1981 blackface Pro Reverb for $400 in NJ!
1981 blackface Pro Reverb for $400 in NJ!
drc
Senior Member
yeah I read the wiki.. kinda confused me. Boy not to many good reviews on that amp for that era. Might have to pass.
bluesypicky
Enlightened Member
On another hand, the 81"true" blackface in NJ that David was mentioning a few posts ago, is most interesting, if still available....
drc
Senior Member
agreed, I'd buy it if someone can help out? I will try on my own.. but long distance CL usually doesn't work.
Ugh! I had one and would never again! My first tube amp was a '79 Twin Reverb (135-watt, MV, ultralinear transformer). After that one, I said I was done with MV Fenders but, you guessed it, I bought another, the '81 Pro Reverb (70-watt, MV, ultralinear transformer). I am officially cured of ultralinear Fenders. They are designed with too much negative feedback in the circuit (changed easily enough) and the ultralinear OT with 6L6s stacked on top of that results in a harshness that is practically impossible to dial out. 6L6s have built-in negative feedback b/w the grid and the plate (IIRC) and don't work well with UL transformers. KT66s would be a better choice for that transformer, but you still have to modify the NF circuit to get rid of the harsh highs. If you like BF Fenders, I would recommend dodging any of the later MV Fenders.