10-string Guild ?!

Metalman

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Here is the latest development on my "10-string" 1970 F-212. Made the first 4 strings unison, and removed the plain, "higher-octave" A and E strings. Sounds less jangly, more like a guitar with chorus on, or like two guitars. This arrangement really works when playing finger-style, or just strumming, or playing lead.
I call it a "10-string doubling guitar"!

And I have yet to figure out a way to post a picture!
 

Taylor Martin Guild

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I'm not sure what you are saying.
Are the first 4 strings [E and A] now all the same guage and key?
If so, what guage and how much tension will this put on the guitar's top?
The B and high E strings are left as normal 12 string tunning?
Wow, I'm lost on this one.
I'm also very interested in what you have done.
Thanks, TMG.
 

12 string

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Did you mean unison pairs in the first 4 courses and low bass single strings in the 5th and 6th?

Old time bluesman Jesse Fuller had low bass and octave strings in the bottom 2 courses, unison pairs in the next three higher courses and a singleton on top, all tuned very low. That's a little bit similar to your set-up. Fuller also used his big toe to play his "fotdella", a coffin-shaped piano-like bass instrument of his own invention.

I am always interested in hearing about different ways people set up, string up and tune up their 12 string guitars.

David
 

Metalman

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I thought it might be a bit confusing. Here it goes:

When we say the first string, we mean the high "E". The second string, therefore, is "B", and so on. The last, or 6th, or bottom string is called the low "E". In referring to 12-string pairs, each set of parallel or octave strings is called a "course".

(I didn't know that until recently . . .)

So, on the "Guild 10-string guitar" :) :

The first course, is "E", tuned standard, in unison - .010"
The second course, is "B", tuned standard, in unison - .014"
Third course, is "G", tuned standard, in unison - .022" (or .024")
The fourth course is "D", tuned standard, in unison - .032" (or .030")

(All of these so far make up a "Extra light gauge" set).

The fifth course is "A", tuned standard, and only one string - .043"
The sixth course is "E", tuned standard, and only one string - .053"

I had to actually loosen the truss rods in doing this, because there is less tension on the neck with this setup. You've added stress on the bottom, but take it away in another area. I like the sound of this a whole lot more than the jangly sound of the standard 12-string. Like I said, it sounds like a 6-string, but a whole lot fuller, like two guitars, or a guitar with a built-in chorus. AND it helps to slightly tune the unisons out of tune with each other. That gives it the richness.
The down side of this, is that it is expensive; there is no off-the-shelf string sets for this setup. I have to buy two sets of extra light gauge acoustic guitar strings, and toss aside the two As and Es, and then buy a single A (.043"), and a single E (.053" in order to make up a set for this beast!
So I save the tossaways, and buy the first 4 strings separately, to outfit my F-30R, which of course, is a 6-string.
All this trouble is worth it. Love the sound of my F-212. Can't put it down now . . .
 

Taylor Martin Guild

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FYI,
Euphonon Guitar Strings will sell single strings in bulk.
You can have custom sets made for your, "10 string"
for a very good price.
You can find them on a Google search it interested.
 

Metalman

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Taylor Martin Guild said:
FYI,
Euphonon Guitar Strings will sell single strings in bulk.
You can have custom sets made for your, "10 string"
for a very good price.
You can find them on a Google search it interested.

Do they carry brand names, like Cleartone, and DR? That is the brands I use.
 

danerectal

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I've heard of people using 10 strings quite a bit. I think it originated in Chechoslovokia. They apparently like the high E and B strings for lead, and the rest jangly for rhythm. I had seen a Fender Jazzmaster modified to said style once...
 

john_kidder

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You need to get yourself a little M-20. Then buy regular 12-string sets, and use the high strings to set up the M-20 in Nashville tuning. It'll make up for the lack of jangle from your 12. Might even try it with your F-30 once or twice.
 

Metalman

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john_kidder said:
You need to get yourself a little M-20. Then buy regular 12-string sets, and use the high strings to set up the M-20 in Nashville tuning. It'll make up for the lack of jangle from your 12. Might even try it with your F-30 once or twice.

I like the idea of getting an M-20. Just to have it. The next $1,000 comes my way, I will consider it. And then string it up regular. OR . . .

. . .buy a regular set of 12-strings, and the strings I don't use, like the octave ones for the last 4, take them and put them on the M-20 - which I don't have yet - and tune them to the regular tuning, although an octave higher. I would still need an extra E and B string, but that's okay; I've got spares all over the place here.

The Nashville tuning: run it by me once again?
 

john_kidder

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Metalman said:
buy a regular set of 12-strings, and the strings I don't use, like the octave ones for the last 4, take them and put them on the M-20 - which I don't have yet - and tune them to the regular tuning, although an octave higher. I would still need an extra E and B string, but that's okay; I've got spares all over the place here.

The Nashville tuning: run it by me once again?

You've got it exactly right: as Danelectro says, that's "Nashville tuning", also described as "high-stringing" the guitar.

And if I understand your "10-string" version correctly, if you were to buy two complete 12-string sets, plus two of the G and D (lower -register) strings, then you'd have two sets each for your 10-string 12-string and for your high-strung 6-string.
 
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